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Post by subyswamper on Mar 11, 2009 22:25:43 GMT -5
Thanks for the info on the act clutch. Saved me alot of hassle.
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Post by jeremydde on Mar 13, 2009 14:55:12 GMT -5
Thanks for the info on the act clutch. Saved me alot of hassle. No problem. I would have loved to purchase an act clutch for the Justy too. Never had an issue with them, and neither have friends for that matter. A friend has the basic performance act clutch on his Honda Civic w/forged B16A at 15psi with out a hint of trouble. It has chatter, but that was to be expected. Jeremy |
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Post by jeremydde on Mar 18, 2009 16:37:25 GMT -5
So today I bought some larger fuel injectors at the autowrecker. They came from an 1989 Mazda 626 Turbo 2.2L motor. They are Nippon-Denso part # 195500-1650 and flow 324cc/min @43.5psi pressure. This is a 74.2% increase over factory fuel injector specifications.
The good news is that the autowrecker also had a fuel injected Justy too. I test fit the injectors in the Justy manifold, and they are a perfect fit. The only difference is that the injector wiring clips have to be changed.
All I need to wait for now is the new clutch!
Jeremy
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Post by jeremydde on Mar 21, 2009 12:06:13 GMT -5
So, I have installed the new injectors. Not only do they fit perfectly into the factory seals, but they also idle like the factory injectors did. These are a low latency injector it seems, and are able to meet my needs in terms of horsepower, and also allow me to tune for emissions testing as well.
Jeremy
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Post by kernal on Mar 21, 2009 21:25:52 GMT -5
Grab me some fries and a Shamrock shake while your there would ya?
Nice even idle, conrgats
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Dunk
EF12 Turbo 12psi
Posts: 576
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Post by Dunk on Mar 23, 2009 18:56:16 GMT -5
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Post by kenneth on Mar 25, 2009 13:10:50 GMT -5
So the Justy is up on the lift to get at the exhaust bolts to remove the manifold for it's brand new turbo!! Begins with raw material and parts of course.  What material did you used for the exhaust manifold ? |
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Post by jeremydde on Mar 25, 2009 13:48:47 GMT -5
What material did you used for the exhaust manifold ? I used 1¼ SCH40 steel pipe. These are the weld together pipes, not the threaded kind. If you notice in the pictures they are beveled on each end. I paid $4 for each elbow, and $14 for the center "T" joint. Jeremy |
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Post by jeremydde on Mar 25, 2009 13:55:27 GMT -5
Oh, and I contacted Euro-Drive regarding my clutch order. They have been unable to find the kevlar material to fit to my clutch disc yet. If they can't find any soon I'll just order the clutch from DxD through Dusty's Justy's.
Jeremy
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Post by kenneth on Mar 25, 2009 15:35:14 GMT -5
Wich car did you turbo came off ?
I'm gonna use a turbo from a subaru XT also a RHB5 turbo ,i'm searching that flange on your hot side of the turbo .
Because the turbo mounted on the subaru doesn't have that flange on it .
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Post by hollandjusty on Mar 25, 2009 16:13:08 GMT -5
Mazda MX6 I think, Kenneth  |
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Post by jeremydde on Mar 25, 2009 17:37:06 GMT -5
Wich car did you turbo came off ? I'm gonna use a turbo from a subaru XT also a RHB5 turbo ,i'm searching that flange on your hot side of the turbo . Because the turbo mounted on the subaru doesn't have that flange on it . My turbo is off of a Mazda 626/MX6. They both have the same turbo. Mine specifically came off of an 89 Mazda 626 I believe. It is an IHI RHB5 VJ11 turbo. I am using the factory Mazda hot side pipe (5 Bolt) which is a cast iron piece. It routes downwards and turns into a triangular 3 bolt flange with a nice round hole. I chose to make my manifold in such a way that I could utilize the factory Mazda hotside as it saves considerable fabrication. To make your own 5 bolt flange is simple, but you have to realize that you would have to make a complex shaped pipe to cover such a large oblonged hole to include the wastegate. Or you could divorce the wastgate from the downpipe, but that would be some work too. Jeremy |
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Post by jeremydde on Apr 25, 2009 15:53:57 GMT -5
Well, my new clutch has arrived. (Actually last week, but I have been quite busy.) Now I just have to get my flywheel resurfaced and I can install and break this thing in. I was told that this kevlar material needs 1000km's for break-in. I doubt it'll need that much if the flywheel is resurfaced properly, but I will definately take it easy for awhile.   Jeremy |
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Post by jeremydde on Apr 26, 2009 1:55:47 GMT -5
Today I also replaced my sparkplugs with NGK BKR7E's. These are 1 step colder than the factory rated BPR6E's. I noticed that I was getting some pinging under boost with quite relaxed timing & 94 octane. These new plugs have cured this problem.
As there was no listing locally for a BPR7E (Google finds matches, but not parts stores), I opted for these plugs as the nose length & tail length were the same dimensions as the factory plugs. The only difference between these and the factory ones other than heat range is that the 7's require the 5/8" spark plug socket.
Jeremy
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SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
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Post by SeattleJusty on Apr 26, 2009 11:36:09 GMT -5
Today I also replaced my sparkplugs with NGK BKR7E's. These are 1 step colder than the factory rated BPR6E's. I noticed that I was getting some pinging under boost with quite relaxed timing & 94 octane. These new plugs have cured this problem. As there was no listing locally for a BPR7E (Google finds matches, but not parts stores), I opted for these plugs as the nose length & tail length were the same dimensions as the factory plugs. The only difference between these and the factory ones other than heat range is that the 7's require the 5/8" spark plug socket. Jeremy Jeremy, as a courtesy to everyone else reading this (and this goes for everyone in all countries) please try to include the specific method that was used to ascertain the octane rating. In the U.S.A. & Canada (as well as some other countries) we use the PON method which is MON+RON divided by 2. In England they just use the RON number by itself. Regular "low octane" petrol/gasoline in the UK will be rated at about 92 octane but not be actually any higher than the 87 octane sold here in the U.S.A. I have personally experienced confusion from Brits and others around the world who mistakenly thought that one fuel was higher up on the AKI (Anti Knock Index) than another and this gets to be very important when we are giving out advice on turbocharged cars. Just a courtesy, thank you  |
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Post by jeremydde on Apr 26, 2009 13:59:39 GMT -5
Jeremy, as a courtesy to everyone else reading this (and this goes for everyone in all countries) please try to include the specific method that was used to ascertain the octane rating. In the U.S.A. & Canada (as well as some other countries) we use the PON method which is MON+RON divided by 2. In England they just use the RON number by itself. Regular "low octane" petrol/gasoline in the UK will be rated at about 92 octane but not be actually any higher than the 87 octane sold here in the U.S.A. I have personally experienced confusion from Brits and others around the world who mistakenly thought that one fuel was higher up on the AKI (Anti Knock Index) than another and this gets to be very important when we are giving out advice on turbocharged cars. Just a courtesy, thank you I do understand what you are addressing here, although I don't feel it's entirely relevant giving that I didn't mention any timing values either. Had I mentioned as an example that I was experiencing some pinging at 7psi at 5000rpm with 94 octane at 18degrees of advance, then the difference between octane measurements with respect to other nations would play a role. I understand that this is an international forum, and that a great deal of the turbo projects are on the other side of the water so to speak. Although I am obliged to remind everyone that every engine is different, as well as every tune. The octane number is really irrelevant if you are out tuning your engine. Whatever octane you choose to run dictates how much power you can squeeze out. The simpler answer is to step up the octane rating that is available in your area if you seem to be experiencing detonation. Alternatively, you could just pull some timing. The goal when tuning for different octanes is to add as much timing as you can until you either lose power, or you get to the point of audible(hopefully not) or inaudible knock(with knock monitors, etc.). What I was getting at in my previous post was that giving the engine compression, boost level, fuel octane, and my timing, I seemed to be pinging. My experience was telling me that this was far to premature, so I added a higher octane to test my hypothesis. The pinging was still there so I changed out the plugs and now everything is well. In fact I have been able to add more timing without any pinging after changing the plugs. My poor clutch slips so easily now. I don't think that I need to address the octane measurement system as SJ seems to have already covered that. When I was mentioning 94 octane I was referring to 94PON. Jeremy |
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Post by jeremydde on Apr 26, 2009 18:10:26 GMT -5
Whatever octane you choose to run dictates how much power you can squeeze out. Per litre/er of fuel and/or displacement? New clutch installed yet? stacks I was referring to the knock threshold. Higher octane fuels burn slower, so if your engine configuration requires it you have to start burning it sooner to ensure complete combustion. This requires increased timing advance. (ie burn sooner). Increased timing advance typically yields more power. I say typically because in some cases the yields may be negligable at best. There are a few ways to make power with a turbocharged engine. For example: You could make 100hp at 7psi @ 18degrees advance or 100hp at 10psi @ 12degrees advance. The less ignition advance usually the less chance of detonation. The first scenario may require a higher octane than the second scenario. Or they could both require the same octane. This is all in testing and monitoring engine knock. The octane of a fuel, and the horsepower that it can support for any given engine has no bearing on the power per litre or engine displacement. Typically smaller bore engines can detonate easier than larger bore engines, but this isn't a engine tuning class  . Also, no I haven't installed the clutch yet. I still have to have a spare flywheel machined, and I wanted to change the water pump (Probably the whole front cover just to cover my bases.). Jeremy |
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Post by jeremydde on Apr 26, 2009 20:17:06 GMT -5
Higher octane fuels burn slower I thought they were harder to ignite?? Is it a slower 'flame speed"? So,, an intercooler should allow lower octane.... Or, even more power, with high octane!!?? I see you have ,what appears, the same DK or Daiken Pressure Plate as I just received and have used. Mine didn't come painted or even cleaned, but $30 seems fair for a Japanese part. My clutch disc is @ ottawa clutch to be resurfaced. I needn't kevlar, any comments here on materials and torque? Modify the step on flywheel? stacks Yes an intercooler could allow for a lower octane, until it gets hot; alternatively you could tune for more power with one with a higher octane. And yes I was referring to a slower flame speed. Higher octane fuels are harder to ignite. These properties of a higher octane fuel have to be taken into consideration when you are tuning an engine. Just running a higher octane in a vehicle that hasn't been tuned for it could potentially lead to a loss in power. There won't be any other harm done though. It is a modified factory clutch. They painted it yellow probably to hide their greasy fingerprints. They dismantled the pressure plate and modified the springs that clamp onto the disc. I opted for the kevlar material because it can take alot of heat, and has more friction than the standard clutch disc. One step higher would be a ceramic puck clutch, but I didn't want anything like that for a daily street vehicle. Jeremy |
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SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
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Post by SeattleJusty on Apr 26, 2009 21:09:40 GMT -5
Just a simple "RON" or "RON+MON/2" would do.
Thank you.
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Post by wrxisthebest on Apr 27, 2009 4:08:18 GMT -5
hey, you are running the VJ11 turbo, but what about the VF11 turbo that comes stock in the 1991 Legacy turbos?
would that work as well?
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Sept 26, 2022 10:46:22 GMT -5
Sept 26, 2022 10:46:22 GMT -5
Is your car an ecvt?
Sept 27, 2022 3:37:41 GMT -5