1989 Subaru Justy 4x4 56k No Way! TURBO!

[lowryde]

befor you try a honda tps. when i was working on fitting a larger Throttle body i found that toyota or nissan (dont remeber for sure with one) tps sensors with a pot bolt rite on to the justy Throttle body with no mods needed. they look almost exactlythe same but instead of a blue sticker its either red or brown. some have just the pot and some are pot and switches all in one.

and could you tell me what the i.d of the but weld fittings you used are i would like to go the same rought as your manifold

[Armageddous]

Nissan.
-Terry

[jeremydde]

Jan 2, 2009 21:00:30 GMT -5 @lowryde said:

befor you try a honda tps. when i was working on fitting a larger Throttle body i found that toyota or nissan (dont remeber for sure with one) tps sensors with a pot bolt rite on to the justy Throttle body with no mods needed. they look almost exactlythe same but instead of a blue sticker its either red or brown. some have just the pot and some are pot and switches all in one.

and could you tell me what the i.d of the but weld fittings you used are i would like to go the same rought as your manifold

I believe the steel weld pipes were 1.25" SCH40. Thanks for the tip about the TPS. I will be visiting the wrecker soon to find a worthy replacement.

Jeremy

[jeremydde]

Jan 3, 2009 18:00:13 GMT -5 @stacks said:

Jeremydde,

Nice TIG work(or exceptional MIG?)!

Is there room to raise the throttle body up an inch without cutting the hood?

Can someone try putting a piece of wood strapping(1 inch x ?) on top of their throttle body and seeing if the hood closes? My engine is out at the time.

stacks

All welding so far has been with a mig welder.

[jeremydde]

So, over the last few days I installed the new cylinder head, and the Walbro fuel pump.

Work in progress...



Then the fuel pump was installed where the original was previously. The Walbro is much longer, especially with the fittings
that come with it. The included fittings were tossed in favor of a couple banjo fittings/bolts to decrease the overall
length.



Here is the fuel pump assembly with the new fuel filter installed in the factory location with the factory cover bolted on.
Two of the three bolts for the fuel pump cover broke and had to be re-drilled and re-threaded before the pump could be
completed. I will probably undercoat the visible areas of the fuel pump later to prevent corrosion.



Dissassembly of the old cylinder head along with all un-needed accessories...





The heavily carboned up pistons were cleaned up with the help of a stainless wire wheel on a rotary die-grinder and a vacuum.



Here is the turbo oil-feed line that I picked up along with the 1/8 NPT to -3AN 90 degree fitting.



Here is the fitting installed into the back of the block where the original oil pressure light switch was located.



Then the new head was installed and torqued down. I forgot to take a picture at this stage, but I assume everyone knows what
a stock FI head looks like installed. All that remains to finish this FI conversion is about 3/4 of the wiring, and to weld
in an O2 bung for my wideband.

Jeremy

[subyswamper]

Really top notch work! I like your welds alot and how you have the pipe routed over the valve cover with the mount flange looks really nice! I eagerly await more updates.

[jeremydde]

More updates will follow in 3 weeks as I have left for another work cycle. Thanks for your compliments!

Jeremy

[jeremydde]

Hi, I'm back with another update!
As suggested I went to a few autowreckers to find another suitable TPS sensor for my
project. Of all the Mazda's, Nissans, and Toyota's I tried, any sensor that was a visual match to the Justy one was
of the switch type rather than the pot type. So after a little online research I found the Miata guys to be using the sensor
from E30 BMWs. So back to the wrecker again and voila a perfect match from an 89 735i BMW:




After that was all sorted out, it was back to the MS wiring install. I had to fabricate a fuse panel. It would have been easier
with a sheet metal brake, otherwise it was fabbed up quickly.

Raw materials. Fuse blocks, and relays were purchased from Princess Auto.


Plate was drilled and all components were test mounted on the plate.


The completed plate (bottom) showing the fastener nuts welded in place. This makes it easier to work with once installed in
the car.


Here is the top of the completed panel, all assembled and painted with black rust paint.


Here is the panel mounted in it's new home on the firewall of my Justy. All the excess connectors, and the original carb
electrical was stripped out of the harness to make more room on the firewall.


Here is the completed fuse panel, missing just a few fuses.


All that's left is to install the engine harness, and solder a dozen or so wires, and it'll fire up. I plan to drive the car
around for a few days before installing the turbo to get a decent tune done. Should be driveable by saturday I expect.

Jeremy

[subyswamper]

Looks very professional!

So how hard is the mega squirt setup to figure out and mount?
Nice info on the tps off of the e30 bmw's as well.
I will be watching your progress closely as I really love what you are doing. If you want me to port your head or anything like that send it my way.

[jeremydde]

Jan 29, 2009 19:48:03 GMT -5 subyswamper said:

Looks very professional!

So how hard is the mega squirt setup to figure out and mount?
Nice info on the tps off of the e30 bmw's as well.
I will be watching your progress closely as I really love what you are doing. If you want me to port your head or anything like that send it my way.

The megasquirt isn't too difficult so far. Just have to follow instructions carefully.

Jeremy

[jeremydde]

Just a text update today. The Justy runs with the megasquirt! It runs very well above 2000rpm, but below that just above idle I keep losing sync with the distributor. Until I have corrected that issue, the turbo won't be installed. The megasquirt has 2 voltage adjustment pots to tune the VR signal from the distributor. I initially couldn't get an rpm signal from the distributor until I played around with the adjustment pots and then it ran. However, the pots need further tuning so that the megasquirt doesn't lose track of the engine.

All in the all the megasquirt install has been quite trouble free with the exception of the the pot adjustments. Once I had a signal it fired right up. The throttle response seems to have doubled compared to my old cylinder head w/carb. Also it does feel more powerful with the new head installed as well.

Jeremy

[onsk8]

I was possibly thinking of trying to install megasquirt in the future. just wondering where you got it and how much a kit costs. Your project is looking fine. keep it going

[jeremydde]

Feb 13, 2009 0:33:23 GMT -5 onsk8 said:

I was possibly thinking of trying to install megasquirt in the future. just wondering where you got it and how much a kit costs. Your project is looking fine. keep it going

I ordered it online from diyautotune.com along with the basic wiring harness. It came out to almost $400 all shipped and everything.

Jeremy

[jeremydde]

Well, the Justy is turbo!

I solved all my issues with my megasquirt and the engine purrs perfectly smooth in all rpm conditions. Still a little rich on the top end, but fine tuning is all that is required. Starts first crank in the morning too.

The turbo system is installed and I will post pictures up later this evening. Now my clutch slips at only 5psi of boost, so a new clutch will have to be sourced out.

Jeremy

[jeremydde]

Here are the photos as promised:

The lower crossmember and engine mount was removed to gain access to the oil pan. The pan and inspection plate
were removed, and the bottom end was inspected.


A piece of 1/2" steel tube was heated and bent to the proper angle for the turbo oil return line. This was then welded into
the pan. Here it is welded and sprayed with high temp black paint.


Here is the pan installed with a new gasket, and the turbo is installed to test that the oil return tubes are aligned
correctly.


Now that the oil return has been taken care of, its time to fit a downpipe around it. This was taken before I cut off the old
header flange on the exhaust pipe and welded on a new larger flange.


Different angle of the downpipe showing the oil return, and the tab that mounts the downpipe to the factory hanger
on the engine mount.


Here is the completed downpipe, painted with high heat black paint and installed. You can't tell in the pictures, but
the pipe still sits above the crossmember so it isn't a low point.


And here is how the engine bay looks this evening.


I forgot to take pictures when I was making the charge pipes, but I will update with some once I have finished cleaning them
up. I still need to mount the blow-off valve, and weld in a bung for the IAT sensor into the charge pipe.

Jeremy

[jeremydde]

It is not exempt from emissions testing here in BC. We have the Aircare program. I am not too worried about it. I will just tune it for aircare and it'll pass. The good thing is it is allowed alot more emissions compared to newer cars so it is easier to pass. It was a carbed vehicle before, so the emission standards for it are quite a bit more relaxed.

Jeremy

[ultima]

So you mean that the only issue for you "over there" are emission tests?
Here the only way to get a justy with turbo legal would be to rebuild the car so much that it's classed as "rebuilt vehicle" :/

[jeremydde]

Mar 5, 2009 17:54:07 GMT -5 ultima said:

So you mean that the only issue for you "over there" are emission tests?
Here the only way to get a justy with turbo legal would be to rebuild the car so much that it's classed as "rebuilt vehicle" :/

Yup. Pass emissions you can buy insurance and drive. Makes sense too. If you are still within legal emissions for your vehicle it shouldn't matter what you do to it. You aren't polluting like crazy. There are no safety inspections here unless a police officer pulls you over and gives you a vehicle inspection. This usually only happens if he notices something that is grossly illegal, or your vehicle is far too loud.

Jeremy

[lowryde]

would it be to much to ask for a wiring diagram on how you weird up you ms i would like
to go this way but need a little help

[jeremydde]

Here is a modified wiring diagram from the megamanual applicable to the Justy.

When you purchase the Megasquirt be sure to buy the wiring harness along with it at the least. The harness is prebuilt and all you have to do is solder the wires in the engine bay then.

There are a few things to note: The ignition switch trigger (Yellow wire in the diagram) has to be powered both when the ignition is set to run, but also when you are cranking the engine too. I found a suitable source in the engine bay feeding the ignitor. I can't remember the wire color, but a multimeter is your best friend here.

Also, sensor grounds, all of them should be grounded to the same place, and that should be under the intake manifold where the factory originally grounded their ecm. This diagram shows a 3 wire O2 sensor, Although all the narrow bands I have worked with have been a single or a 4 wire sensor. In the case of the 4 wire there is the signal, signal sensor ground, heater ground and +12V as indicated in the diagram. The only missing one is the signal ground which would also be grounded along with the other sensor grounds. Also note that you don't have to wire up the O2 if you don't want to. It can be disabled in software and as long as there are no emissions testing in your area you'd be fine.

I set mine up for direct coil control, so the ignitor isn't needed anymore.

If you have any other questions just ask. It's difficult to recount every detail after the fact as I wasn't paying all that much attention to electrical details. I tend to use my multimeter and get to work. Also please realize that you need a wideband Air/Fuel controller to tune it properly, otherwise you'll be in over your head without one. I can provide you with a decent running msq file from my install to get you started.

Jeremy