1989 Subaru Justy 4x4 56k No Way! TURBO!

[jeremydde]

Hi, I am new to the site and have purchased an 89 Justy 4x4 GL ~ a month ago. It was $275 CDN, but came with a few problems...




-Timing belt was off 2 teeth
-Distributor was broken (reluctor magnet cracked in half)
-Wires to distributor were taped together and corroded
-Ignitor was broken
-Valve lash was way too tight causing incomplete combustion
-Four vacuum lines were disconnected and leaking
-Front drivers hub was stripped out
-Front drivers axle nut threads stripped out too.
-Owner lost the key, so there were no locks installed either
-No oil cap (Still haven't found one actually)
-Broken dash console where the stereo once was

After fixing all these problems, installing locks, and replacing the dash console (Thanks IanVissers!) the car was road worthy again. So off to the mud we went...



After being out late in the bush it became apparent that the car needed some illumination upgrades so...






And the Justy is on the lift, more to come!

Jeremy

[jeremydde]

So the Justy is up on the lift to get at the exhaust bolts to remove the manifold for it's brand new turbo!!

Begins with raw material and parts of course.



Trigger wheel for Megasquirt


IHI RHB5 VJ11 Turbo Scrounged from the autowrecker for $60


Fuel injected top end for $190 from the wrecker (Also got the distributor)


DSM Intercooler (Was lying around the shop for awhile)

[jeremydde]

Sorry, didn't take any pictures of the steel plate that the flanges were cut out from, but onto the welding of the manifold and test fitment.

Manifold clamped to the table and welded up.


I welded the manifold up with a small metal shim beneath it to preload the flange the wrong way so that when it was welded and had shrunk it was still level.


Test fitment in engine bay so far.


Auxiliary tube welded on for the IHI flange to mat up to the manifold.


Using a hole saw to cut out the manifold once the auxiliary tube was welded on.


More to follow later on this evening. Hope to have the manifold complete, with the flange welded on. Then will start on the megasquirt.

Jeremy

[condorrockbilly]

wow

[ultima]

That's a very interesting, yet simple way of making a manifold. Too bad the exhaust flange on my turbo is so wierdly placed (can't change the angel either), so I'm going for a little more traditional custom exhaust

[jeremydde]

More progress photos.

Here is the auxiliary tube drilled out.


Here is the manifold with the flange all welded up and bolted to the turbo. I also beveled the edges, and rounded all the corners of the flanges.


Here is the manifold and turbo test fitment in the engine bay.



And here is the megasquirt ready to be assembled.


More to come

Jeremy

[justyjon]

Oh man.....that is sweet. Can't wait to see more!

There is quite a bit of room in there after the stock manifold/heat shield/catalytic is off, huh?

Ever considered putting together turbo kits? I know you'd sell a few.

And please please, can we get some videos when she's done?

[jimm]

Nice work!
Glad to see a poor neglected Justy given new life.

I'm really interested in the Megasquirt project, I've been thinking of it for my car for fun. I almost tried the Electromotive TEC3 stand alone ECU we have for our race car on the Justy before installing it on the race car. I didn't of course.

[jeremydde]

It's funny that you mention the Electromotive TEC3 as a friend has one here that was recently removed from a vehicle and I definately considered it. After some research in the software however it doesn't support 3 cyl motors. Would probably have to set it up as a 6cyl but all the values in the tables would have been incorrect.

Also there will be some videos made for sure!

[jeremydde]

Oct 31, 2008 12:30:59 GMT -5 justyjon said:

Oh man.....that is sweet. Can't wait to see more!

There is quite a bit of room in there after the stock manifold/heat shield/catalytic is off, huh?

Ever considered putting together turbo kits? I know you'd sell a few.

And please please, can we get some videos when she's done?

We have been known to build a few kits for a variety of cars. Mostly Hondas. However they can be quite time consuming.

[jeremydde]

I finished the power supply section of the megasquirt. Will now begin the serial connection assembly.

[cordivar]

This is a great thread keep em coming !!! looking forward to seeing the end product !!

[89]

Go Jeremy!,

Welcome . Mega-interesting and valuable posts, J.! Vancouver is in the house (garage)!!

Nice to see someone putting 'their welder and soldering gun where their mouth is' .

Definitely a nice departure from some of the lover's quarrels going on around here lately!

Respectfully,

[gearheadeh]

Nov 1, 2008 9:59:48 GMT -5 89 said:

Go Jeremy!,

Welcome . Mega-interesting and valuable posts, J.! Vancouver is in the house (garage)!!

Nice to see someone putting 'their welder and soldering gun where their mouth is' .

Definitely a nice departure from some of the lover's quarrels going on around here lately!
Respectfully,

;D ;D ;D

[jeremydde]

I have finished the megasquirt assembly so far!


Now it's on to building the wiring harness with relays and on to the head swap. I have also picked up a GM 4-wire stepper IAC with a CNC machined housing and dash 6 AN fittings on it. I will take photos when I have the item in hand. Also I have a Walbro 255 inline fuel pump that I picked up for $80 for this project as well.

I will update more on sunday, but on monday I fly out of town for another work shift (21 days) so the fabrication updates will end until I return.

Jeremy

[jeremydde]

Well, it's been awhile since my last update. I was forced to move suddenly due to flooding, but now I have the time
to continue my Justy project. It took awhile but I finally found a reasonably priced headgasket and valve cover gasket
for the FI head swap.

I was able to get the headgasket for $70 CDN and the valvecover gasket for $30.


Also, I was able to pick up a few mandrel u-bends cheap in Calgary, so I built a brand new 2" exhaust for the car to prepare
for turbo.

Here is the old muffler...


And the new muffler I picked up at Napa for $34.


I didn't take any photo's of the mandrel U-bends, but I did take a photo of the completed exhaust. It has alot of bends to it
so that it can be tucked up as high as possible. It actually goes up along the driveshaft before coming back down and exiting
at the rear.



Then the exhaust was painted with VHT Hi-Temp black satin paint.



Mounted on the car.


I also mounted a set of brand new Goodyear Nordic 155-80/13 tires, changed a broken driveshaft (U-joint broke), and then
welded up a patch in the driver's side wheel well. Water and mud was getting into the car through this rust hole so it had
to be patched up.


Thats all the updates for today. Later on this week I hope to have the head swap completed, and the megasquirt installed.

Jeremy

[jeremydde]

Dec 30, 2008 7:13:05 GMT -5 @stacks said:

Any tips on patching rust on thin panels?

stacks

You have to cut away all the rust. Basically the hole gets much larger than it really was so that when you start to weld it doesn't just burn through rust, it penetrates into steel. Also weld from the inside of the patch outwards, like you would apply a sticker or decal. Normally after the welding you would grind the patch smooth and then prep for paint etc., however this isn't a high visibility area and I didn't care much to grind it.

Jeremy

[Armageddous]

I could tell you lots about repairing rusty steel. A good tip is if you ever burn through, put a piece of brass on the other side of the hole and fill it in. The brass won't stick and you'll be left with a little patch.
Also be patient and just slowly buzz it all together, you won't get a long beautiful bead out of tin.
-Terry

[jeremydde]

Dec 30, 2008 21:06:24 GMT -5 Armageddous said:

I could tell you lots about repairing rusty steel. A good tip is if you ever burn through, put a piece of brass on the other side of the hole and fill it in. The brass won't stick and you'll be left with a little patch.
Also be patient and just slowly buzz it all together, you won't get a long beautiful bead out of tin.
-Terry

I have used a sheet of copper in the past as well.

[jeremydde]

Back with another update on the progress of my build on the first day of 2009!

I dismantled the TPS sensor today to inspect it and it is indeed a switch type rather than a potentiometer.


So a new one would have to be adapted onto the FI throttle body. At that point I noticed that the throttle body
doesn't sit above the valvecover, but under it by about 3/4". I don't have the factory plastic unit, nor would I want to
use it under boost. So a truly custom charge pipe would have to be made to clear the valvecover and it's bolts. Today's
fabrication began with a 2.25" mandrel U-bend that had been bead-rolled on the end.


The pipe was traced with a sharpy and notched on the chopsaw.



Test fitment on the cylinder head.



Outter caps were traced with cardboard, then cut out of plate steel. The caps were welded up on the ends first.



Then the large middle cap was cut-out and welded in place. The angled cap was sanded down to allow for more valvecover
clearance towards the front.



Test fitment on the cylinder head again.


Finally, a mounting tab was welded on the stabilize the charge pipe. This will prevent the pipe from popping off under boost.



After all this fabrication I realized that I completely forgot to deal with the TPS. So tomorrow a honda TPS will be adapted
to the factory Justy throttle body. I will also try and work out how and where I'm gonna install the Walbro fuel pump.

Jeremy