|
|
Post by kimmen2104 on Mar 21, 2009 10:57:25 GMT -5
Hello, here some pics of my justy turbo ic.
|
|
|
|
Post by jeremydde on Mar 21, 2009 11:52:00 GMT -5
   Here, now your pictures display instead of being links. Where is the radiator supposed to go? Also, you should think about replacing those "Home Depot" toilet couplers in favour of real turbo couplers. I'm not sure that they will stand up to the heat of the manifold. Jeremy |
|
|
|
Post by kimmen2104 on Mar 23, 2009 1:51:07 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by jeremydde on Mar 23, 2009 11:53:18 GMT -5
it is real turbo couplers, i have some exhaust tape on the exhaust manifold and it works pretty good. Okay, they look reminiscent of a turbo project that another fellow brought to me years ago. He had the same intercooler, and the coupler in your photo on the turbo looked just like the plumbing couplers he had bought at home depot. But If it is a real coupler good then! I also see you wrapped your manifold so burning the coupler won't be an issue anymore. Also, If you want your images to display instead of being links: Put the urls inbetween those tags below without the spaces in it. [ img ] [ /img ] Jeremy |
|
|
|
Post by jeremydde on Mar 23, 2009 11:59:00 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by kimmen2104 on Mar 23, 2009 12:33:41 GMT -5
No problem thank you for helping whit the pics.
I have allready test run it with the main jet drilled up to 160 and 17psi boost, actually i will drop the boost to 12psi later
But my problem whit the ignition is wan i have the ignition installed at 20 degrees later in idel rpm the ignition stays normal, but if i give some higer rpm to the engine like 3000-4000rpm the ignition will be at 30-35 degrees earlier. And that is a litle to early to a turbo engine.
Some one knows what problem i have or is that normal?
|
|
|
|
Post by jeremydde on Mar 23, 2009 12:41:32 GMT -5
No problem thank you for helping whit the pics. I have allready test run it with the main jet drilled up to 160 and 17psi boost, actually i will drop the boost to 12psi later But my problem whit the ignition is wan i have the ignition installed at 20 degrees later in idel rpm the ignition stays normal, but if i give some higer rpm to the engine like 3000-4000rpm the ignition will be at 30-35 degrees earlier. And that is a litle to early to a turbo engine. Some one knows what problem i have or is that normal? It sounds like you aren't running anything that can retard the timing. You are not gonna want to run your engine at 17psi without any timing retard. I am unsure if you are saying that you are running 20degs advance at idle? If you are running 30-35 degs timing at 3000rpm and above at those kinds of boost levels then you will get detonation. You need to retard the timing before you boost it anymore. Jeremy |
|
|
|
Post by jeremydde on Mar 23, 2009 12:43:48 GMT -5
Do you have the vacuum lines to the distributor hooked up properly?
Jeremy
|
|
|
|
Post by kimmen2104 on Mar 23, 2009 13:04:07 GMT -5
i have the vacum blocked now, and still the timing will go to 30-35 degr earlier.
Or shuld i use the boost to the vacum line?
I was thinkin in the nedel rpm i have som vacum and on a higer rpm i have boost what will press the vacum clock back and that will get the timing later.
|
|
|
|
Post by jeremydde on Mar 23, 2009 13:38:15 GMT -5
i have the vacum blocked now, and still the timing will go to 30-35 degr earlier. Or shuld i use the boost to the vacum line? I was thinkin in the nedel rpm i have som vacum and on a higer rpm i have boost what will press the vacum clock back and that will get the timing later. I don't have a vacuum advance distributor, But it sounds like it needs a vacuum source to run properly at idle. However it also sounds like the moment you apply boost to it it would advance the timing not retard it. I believe there are two hose on it, so you should be able to figure out how to connect it so that it runs less advance at idle and under boost with a few check valves. Jeremy |
|
|
|
Post by kimmen2104 on Mar 23, 2009 14:04:40 GMT -5
i have to connect all vacum lines back and test what happens if the timing will be advanced in idle rpm now whidout to adjust the timing.
|
|
|
|
Post by kimmen2104 on Mar 31, 2009 12:42:47 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by kimmen2104 on Mar 31, 2009 12:43:13 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by kimmen2104 on Mar 31, 2009 12:43:39 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by jeremydde on Mar 31, 2009 13:37:35 GMT -5
Very nice fabrication. I see that you still haven't hooked up the vacuum lines to the distributor yet? The vacuum lines' purpose is to allow the engine to idle @ 5 degrees and then advance under acceleration. Without them hooked up doesn't it drive poorly? Have you connected them after the pictures were taken?
Jeremy
|
|
SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
|
Post by SeattleJusty on Mar 31, 2009 16:06:43 GMT -5
Even I have to admit, that header looks farcleing killer.
|
|
|
|
Post by ultima on Mar 31, 2009 17:04:25 GMT -5
Can I ask how have you made the fuel system?
I can see that you placed the fuel pump in the engine bay, it it for some special reason?
|
|
|
|
Post by subyswamper on Mar 31, 2009 17:20:26 GMT -5
Can I ask how have you made the fuel system? I can see that you placed the fuel pump in the engine bay, it it for some special reason? I noticed the pump as well. Everything looks great! I would really like to make a header like that! Any chance you have a spare flange for the head that you would like to sell?  |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 31, 2009 21:33:50 GMT -5
I believe there are two hose on it, so you should be able to figure out how to connect it so that it runs less advance at idle and under boost with a few check valves. The bottom vacuum can. on the distributor is the sub-advance, apparently it engages at idle. I say apparently because you have to disconnect it and plug the hose to properly set your ignition timing. Once you plug it back in you can see that it advances the timing at idle. The top vacuum advance can. engages at higher rpm, so you could try: hooking up the sub-advance (and setting your timing appropriately) and not hooking up the main advance and see if that gives you an effective/relative timing retard at 3000-4000rpm. If that doesn't work, you might try an orifice restrictor(s) in the vacuum line or an adjustable valve(s) (which Jeremy alluded to). |
|
|
|
Post by kimmen2104 on Apr 1, 2009 4:58:56 GMT -5
yes i have tried to connect all vacum lienes and no effect.
|
|
Sept 26, 2022 10:46:22 GMT -5
Sept 26, 2022 10:46:22 GMT -5
Is your car an ecvt?
Sept 27, 2022 3:37:41 GMT -5
Is your car an ecvt?
Sept 27, 2022 3:37:41 GMT -5