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Post by streetruler on Oct 22, 2009 14:11:34 GMT -5
as a side note, from looking at the front hubs, all youd ahve to do is take off hte axle nut and then the 4 bolts that hold the lugs onto the hub and machine the hub down to fit more common wheels.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2009 3:13:31 GMT -5
**wombatsauce** I noticed in your post on the 14" alloy thread, that to run the 14x5" escort alloy rim that you had to get the rims machined (60mm?) to fit the hub tabs. Ford lists this as: Part#- F3CC1007AA. From subtracting the estimated tire weight I would guess the alloy rim to weigh 14~15lbs (about same as the stock 13" Justy steelies). No matter they look really good on a Justy. I found that this rim has a 37.5mm offset, does this fit the Justy "center-on" without spacers? The 165/65/14 potenza RE92 is about 4.8% larger diameter than OE stock, did you have to make slight adjustments to the fender wells? My measurements show that at about +6% diameter the tread will rub in the rear fender well. Ooops.. I missed this post earlier.. Thank you for your comments - I think they look pretty nice as well, and match the look of the Justy without being too flashy. Yes, the hub bore was too small on these wheels. I do some work at a local shop, and the owner machined the wheels for me as a favor. He took them each to "about 60mm" which seems about right. I believe someone mentioned that the actual diameter is 59.2mm but I will have to check on that to be sure. I do not actually know if the wheels fit "center on" and that is a good question. Do you know how I would go about measuring this? They fill the wheel wells nicely but do not stick out. They look like they belong. I am not using any spacers, but have found a set of lug nuts that fit the Justy's 12x1.25 studs, and have a larger flared area for better/fuller contact in the seats of the wheels. I did not need to trim any metal, however I took about 3mm off of the edge of the vertical spot-welded seam that is just in front of the rear tire - mostly for visual reasons. I specifically chose these tires so I would lessen the chances of lateral contact issues. Hope that helps!
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Post by RedRooJusty on Oct 26, 2009 14:08:58 GMT -5
**wombatsauce** thank you for the great info. I have those exact lug nuts, when I had the 13" tires mounted at my local LesSchwab last week I asked them if they could replace the lug nuts (when bought, my car with three different models of lug nut), they added 24$(US) to my bill but I got those lugs.
12x1.25 lug nut (listed as a honda part, I believe SeattleJusty mentioned this as well).
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SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
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Post by SeattleJusty on Oct 26, 2009 18:21:58 GMT -5
**wombatsauce** thank you for the great info. I have those exact lug nuts, when I had the 13" tires mounted at my local LesSchwab last week I asked them if they could replace the lug nuts (when bought, my car with three different models of lug nut), they added 24$(US) to my bill but I got those lugs. 12x1.25 lug nut (listed as a honda part, I believe SeattleJusty mentioned this as well). Nah. Honda lugnuts are totally different than Subarus. I said that if someone wants to use wheels that have ball-seats, then they will want to convert from 12X1.25 studs to the more common 12X1.5 studs and switch from Nissan/Subaru 12X1.25 conical-nuts to Honda/Acura 12X1.5 spherical-nuts.
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Post by RedRooJusty on Oct 28, 2009 0:15:23 GMT -5
**SeattleJusty** no worries, my bad. Solid info about the lug nuts. I admit to not being aware of the differences in the base of the lug nuts (conical vs spherical). I'll add that to my list of special considerations for the Justy. --good times
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Post by eporter123 on Mar 29, 2010 14:23:29 GMT -5
Whoops... So I just ran into this problem myself. I went to rotate the tires, and the stud snapped. To be fair, I was part of the problem. Not sure why, but the wheel nut was tight. After the first one snapped, I wrenched the other two off. Not the best practice, but I did it anyways, as I had a spare hub. Luckily I had a spare hub with good studs. I unbolted the old broken stud hub, & bolted the other on. Along the way I found the conical spring to be on backwards, with "OUT" facing in. Also, I noticed my pass. side conical spring to be missing, and replaced with a thinner random washer. I'll have to fix that soon. Though, it's been that way for 14,000 miles now, since I bought it. I bought new lug nuts in the 12x1.25 size at O'Reilly's auto parts for $7 or so. I went to the Subaru dealer and ordered 2 new castle nuts, 2 conical springs, and 2 center pieces. I'll put those on when I replace my axle in the near future. The Subaru parts guy used to work in service and didn't remember ever replacing the conical springs when he would service Justy axles or bearings. Though, that was back when Justys were new, and not 20 years old. I think the conical spring can only last for so many cycles. Plus they were only a couple dollars. I figured I'd put some new ones in anyways.
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Post by nsquared97 on Oct 14, 2010 0:39:12 GMT -5
Hey guys, quick random question, What size socket does it take to gt the axle castle nut off? I don't have anything bigger than 23mm, and plan on buying the correct socket, but at $10 a pop for sockets that big I want to make sure I get the correct size. Thanks!
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SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
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Post by SeattleJusty on Oct 14, 2010 10:42:31 GMT -5
Hey guys, quick random question, What size socket does it take to gt the axle castle nut off? I don't have anything bigger than 23mm, and plan on buying the correct socket, but at $10 a pop for sockets that big I want to make sure I get the correct size. Thanks! I've seen both 27mm and 30mm I think. One is factory size and the other was who-knows-what. At $10 you're getting off CHEAP! I suspect those may be 12-point sockets. Please insist on using a proper 6-point socket and do not use your torque wrench to remove them.
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Post by monsterjusty on Oct 26, 2010 23:08:53 GMT -5
So i just had to change out two broken studs on the rear, one on each side. and man was that ever easy. codder pin out, castle nut undone, tap drum, remove drum, hammer out broken stud, hammer in new stud, reverse process.. never had a thing like that go so smooth.
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