89
got Mud? Ice? Snow?
Posts: 398
|
Post by 89 on Mar 9, 2007 12:25:24 GMT -5
Hey All, I managed to strip a wheel stud ... didn't have time to check this morning... I believe its just 4 nuts/bolts holding a hub 'face' on? Has anyone Remove & Replaced these... is it a simple: remove hub face, hammer out bad stud, hammer in new, reinstall hub face?... any 'snafus'?? Thanks, #891989 Subaru JUSTY RS 4WD 126, 713 miles
|
|
|
Post by SUBIEJIM on Mar 9, 2007 22:50:08 GMT -5
89, Yeah, It's an easy job. You can remove just the hub by removing the axle nut/spring washer assembly and then remove the 4 bolts holding the hub to the rotor. But, you may have a tough time getting the hub and rotor to separate ( I grew up in NY and know the Rust Demon well!) You can give it a shot but, if it won't come apart just pull the caliper assembly and caliper bracket off the knuckle and slide the hub/rotor assembly off the axle shaft and tap it apart on a work bench. NOTE: Mark the hub and rotor with a Sharpie or paint stick before you separate the two so, you can index them on reassembly and bolt them back together exactly the way they came apart. This, along with the proper hub to rotor bolt torque is "critical"! If this is not done you will more than likely have a brake pulsation problem that you did not have before......Don't ask me how I know this! At his point, knock out the bad stud and drift in the new one. If you have an air compressor and an impact gun you can draw the new stud in using some flat washers and a lug nut. (This is the method I use..It draws the stud in straight and flush with hub quickly.) Once done, just button her back up in reverse order. Make sure you get the torque on the axle nut right so Mr hub bearing stays happy and your good to go! Good luck, Jim
|
|
89
got Mud? Ice? Snow?
Posts: 398
|
Post by 89 on Mar 10, 2007 19:05:56 GMT -5
Thanks Jim. Is that axle nut/spring reuseable or one shot...? Where in NY did you grow up? Kanpai, #891989 Subaru JUSTY RS 4WD 126, 717 miles
|
|
|
Post by SUBIEJIM on Mar 10, 2007 20:45:30 GMT -5
The axle nut, tapered spring, and washer are reusable. Note: The washer is not flat! It has a concave side and a convex side. The concave side should be installed toward the tapered spring which will then put the convex side in contact with the axle nut. Happy wrenching Jim PS..Born in Queens NY and grew up on Long Island in the Patchogue-Medford area..I moved to NC in 1989. Thanks Jim. Is that axle nut/spring reuseable or one shot...? Where in NY did you grow up? Kanpai, #891989 Subaru JUSTY RS 4WD 126, 717 miles
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 13, 2009 3:25:00 GMT -5
Nice - glad I searched!! I broke a wheel stud a while back due to a lug nut that had botched threads. Then, I messed up another stud on the same wheel when I was test-fitting a new set of lug nuts I bought (12x1.25). Turns out the threads were way messed up in the new nuts, and I needed to run a tap through each one before using them.... Nice.
So, I am still waiting for my wheel studs to show up from Subaru. They should be here tomorrow. I am going to just replace all of them since my car has 120k miles on it, I drive it pretty hard and I am running Ford Escort 14x5 alloys which make for a heavier wheel/tire setup.
Does anyone have the proper hub-to-rotor torque figures as well as the axle-nut torque? Really looking forward to getting these done quickly if possible.
Thanks!
|
|
|
Post by redmavis12 on Oct 13, 2009 11:36:57 GMT -5
Hub-to-rotor I believe is 40-50 ft lbs, axle nut is just a bit more...145 ft lbs.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 13, 2009 20:28:51 GMT -5
Thank you!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 13, 2009 21:21:07 GMT -5
I am going to just replace all of them since my car has 120k miles on it, I drive it pretty hard and I am running Ford Escort 14x5 alloys which make for a heavier wheel/tire setup. If you are going to replace all your lug studs, you might consider using the more common thread pitch. Going by memory, I think it's 1.5 and I think the Justy is 1.25. The advantage of using the 1.5 is that if you ever get alloy wheels that use ball seats lug nuts you can get them for the 1.5 thread pitch. There is also a wide array of custom lug nut sets for the 1.5. Someone please correct me if I am wrong on the thread pitch(es). You should be able to find lug studs in stock at any decent auto parts store or tire store.
|
|
SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
|
Post by SeattleJusty on Oct 13, 2009 22:13:24 GMT -5
I am going to just replace all of them since my car has 120k miles on it, I drive it pretty hard and I am running Ford Escort 14x5 alloys which make for a heavier wheel/tire setup. If you are going to replace all your lug studs, you might consider using the more common thread pitch. Going by memory, I think it's 1.5 and I think the Justy is 1.25. The advantage of using the 1.5 is that if you ever get alloy wheels that use ball seats lug nuts you can get them for the 1.5 thread pitch. There is also a wide array of custom lug nut sets for the 1.5. Someone please correct me if I am wrong on the thread pitch(es). You should be able to find lug studs in stock at any decent auto parts store or tire store. Ferox gets an A+. Subarus and Nissans/Infiniti do use the less common 12X1.25 studs whereas most other manufacturers use 12X1.5 or 14X1.5 If using ball-seat wheels like the VW steelies I modified for use on my Justy, use Honda lugnuts as they are spherical 12X1.5 and just buy new ones since they are cheap and easy to find. No sense in buggering up the nice new studs you just installed with used nuts that have trashed threads.
|
|
|
Post by streetruler on Oct 14, 2009 10:55:40 GMT -5
you know i was looking at this the otehr day, i was thinking of rather than buying weird wheels with a nearly 60mm hub opening, just running a 5+ mm spacer (maybe 10 as needed) and getting longer studs. then i can run whatever wheels i want to (some form of stock 14') and get some decently sized tires rather than the pizza cutters we are stuck with at 13'
|
|
SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
|
Post by SeattleJusty on Oct 14, 2009 18:14:32 GMT -5
you know i was looking at this the otehr day, i was thinking of rather than buying weird wheels with a nearly 60mm hub opening, just running a 5+ mm spacer (maybe 10 as needed) and getting longer studs. then i can run whatever wheels i want to (some form of stock 14') and get some decently sized tires rather than the pizza cutters we are stuck with at 13' At less than two-hundred-thou (0.200") 5mm is probably not going to cause any rubbing on the fender but owners beware, if you do this, you are altering your car from hub-centric to lug-centric and that is not how your car was designed. The Justy is a nose heavy car, and most of its weight being jostled or jumped, lands on the front wheels and those ears on the hub are designed to take that impact. The lug studs were not intended to take those impacts.
|
|
|
Post by streetruler on Oct 14, 2009 21:34:23 GMT -5
thats an interesting take on it. id agree but since the front hubs arent a "circle" pattern but more like 4 blocks i wonder about that.
you can also get spacers that have hub centric rings for the wheels to sit on. id just choose one with a really common size if i were you
|
|
|
Post by onsk8 on Oct 14, 2009 22:04:04 GMT -5
Don't worry about being hub centric(edit: too much. hub centric is nice if possible). Justy wheel bearings will crap out before studs id imagine. My 4 tabs were ground off by previous owner letting me run Honda steelies. I have driven over two curbs sideways on the drivers side and justyracer rolled it on the same side and my studs are fine(that i know about).
On the bearings note, running spacers or bigger wheels will shorten their life alot. I'm assuming as i have done neither.
|
|
|
Post by streetruler on Oct 15, 2009 9:45:26 GMT -5
i dont see how running a bigger wheel would, i can kinda see from a leverage standpoint how spacers and long studs will.
|
|
|
Post by onsk8 on Oct 15, 2009 10:31:10 GMT -5
Wheel offset is more or less the same issue as spacers more leverage on suspension components. It all has to do with the scrub radius of the car. Something you dont want to mess around with too much without major modification.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 15, 2009 11:48:01 GMT -5
It is odd that the front would be hub-centric (using four small tabs) and the rear not. Either way, my setup is now not technically hub-centric since the bore is around 60-60.14mm and you can visually see that the inside bore is at least 1mm from the hub "tab." I hope this does not cause me any safety issues. Due to some really odd consecutive issues, after nearly 2 months I am still waiting for my wheel studs to arrive. They are supposed to be here tomorrow. That's nearly 800 miles now with 3 lugs on the left front. Yikes!
|
|
|
Post by onsk8 on Oct 15, 2009 14:21:45 GMT -5
I wouldnt be too worried with only 3 of 4. There is ALOT of force holding those babies on. Hell pat richard was driving with 3 of 5 on his rally sti and they didnt break. Just keep a spare hub and rotor and do a destructive strength test for all justy owners Edit: i in know way endorse using non hubcentric wheels and less lug nuts. some "legalise" for ya.
|
|
|
Post by RedRooJusty on Oct 15, 2009 14:52:43 GMT -5
I had to replace the studs on the passenger front hub last month. I removed the spindle center (hub) and the disc. I tapped the studs out with a smooth face hammer (pretty easy actually), then installed the new studs. Now I didn't consider using the lug nuts to seat the new studs, I used a 8" C-clamp and a 11/16ths long socket over the stud to press them in. **redmavis12** is correct about the torques. The dealership does suggest replacing the "spindle kit" every dissasembly. The aftermarket kit is cheap though: shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=DOR&MfrPartNumber=05135&PartType=742&PTSet=AThe subie dealership wanted over 50$US for this same set of parts. The worn out center spacer is what destroyed the right front brake caliper guide pins / brake rotor / wheel bearings / spindle splines / and drive axle (still have not replaced this axle $$$) has caused me much trouble. If I knew better before alot of repairs I would have just put the new spindle kit in right away (**stacks** may recall a "looks fishy" comment, the splines were in fact worn down from the spindle center spacer being worn - you were right!). I feel compelled to share from reading others' posts: Any wheel spacing should be to keep the wheel "center" on the bearings. Over 1/4" (or 6.35mm) of spacing one would problably need longer studs lengths. I personally am working to fit steel rims from a 04' scion xB 15x6" wheel. The offset and width correction for this specific rim requires +6mm of spacing for me. If anyone is curious: www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=ContiEcoContact+EP&partnum=755TR5EC&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yesThis tire (175/55/15) is only +0.9 diameter and +1 width compared to stock (165/65/13), when speedometer reads 60mph (96.6km/h) actual speed will be 63.2mph (101.8km/h): 5.3% faster. I am ok with this. The speedometer on all cars are dialed into an "ideal" tire size; this said, as tires wear they change diameter by a few percent, making your actual speed slower than the speedometer by up to 6% (on average) when at the tread wear indicator.
|
|
89
got Mud? Ice? Snow?
Posts: 398
|
Post by 89 on Oct 15, 2009 16:15:35 GMT -5
...This tire (175/55/15) is only +0.9 diameter and +1 width compared to stock (165/65/13)... Driveability-wise, seems it would be worthwhile to plus size 2 points, only IF you increase contact patch (handling) significantly. While the 175 may allow you to go 15 with stock body, adding only 10 millimeters to the sidewall to sidewall width doesn't seem a value-added handling trade for weight of wheel. Bring your bathroom scale with you to the wheel shop/junkyard - I did and found alot of 'performance' aftermarket rims are heaaavy (sometimes 20+ lbs)! Have Fun,
|
|
SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
|
Post by SeattleJusty on Oct 15, 2009 16:46:39 GMT -5
...This tire (175/55/15) is only +0.9 diameter and +1 width compared to stock (165/65/13)... Driveability-wise, seems it would be worthwhile to plus size 2 points, only IF you increase contact patch (handling) significantly. While the 175 may allow you to go 15 with stock body, adding only 10 millimeters to the sidewall to sidewall width doesn't seem a worthwhile handling trade for weight of wheel. Bring your bathroom scale with you to the wheel shop/junkyard - I did and found alot of 'performance' aftermarket rims are heaaavy (sometimes 20+ lbs)! Have Fun, This is so true! I weighed a bare Justy DL wheel last month and look for yourself. The scale doesn't lie, 10LBs! A 145R12 or 155R12 weigh 10-11LBs for a combined wheel & tire weight of 21LBs or less. A 175/55R15 will weigh about 15LBs. Couple that with a wheel that weighs 15-20LBs and I think the math speaks for itself. Whatever you would have gained in the cornering speed will surely be lost in acceleration. At least it would kill your gas mileage. . . so you have that going for you. Right?
|
|