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Post by madmatt on Jun 25, 2015 14:12:39 GMT -5
No worries.
Just remember, we don't have all the background, and "weren't there" so you need to be very descriptive.
Consider this:
It overheated, most of the time, after an overheat the starter will have a hard time turning the motor over, the internals are overexpanded and causing increased friction. It could be very easy to assume the battery was in poor condition when you try to start it right after. However, it just takes WAY more power to turn the motor over... perhaps you battery was fine all along! (aren't you now using the original battery?)
The multimeter on the seat comment was referring to the fact you don't even need to install a gauge, just a hand held multimeter hooked to even the "cigarette plug" would give some useful info.
Matt
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Post by bizarro on Jun 25, 2015 14:27:24 GMT -5
Awesome. So....well I just said screw it and decided to hook up the new battery for a charge, and this came up: not sure what to make of this, especially since the past 3 times I have charged it (as well is the original charge done by knechts) have all showed the battery as near-dead. Now it's almost full but she still couldn't turn over at the Shell? 12.7, the volts for the now-on charge, new, bimart battery. Which I realized IS physically smaller then the original.... ....which started at 12.2, and then on a "second chance" test right after, it went to 12.4. Horrible. That's a half for one nut, 11 mm for the other lol.
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Post by madmatt on Jun 25, 2015 14:34:04 GMT -5
After you pulled the cables out of those crusty things... (EEEEWWW) what did you do to clean the cables? did you check the other ends? the ground at the chassis and the cable at the starter?
Generally (not always) bad connections on those cables will let the battery charge, but not draw enough amps to turn over. In some cases, the connections can be so bad the battery won't charge...
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Post by bizarro on Jun 25, 2015 14:46:51 GMT -5
Well, since nothing seemed to change on the Medalist (new battery) even after I installed the new clamps, I got happy with the Everstart NOT losing a charge and I then assumed the Medalist was a dud.
And then it was suggested that my 89 Mitsubishi alternator probably isn't working with the Medalist, which may explain the Everstart not dying off....
So in reality, the only real things I've to it is an oil change (which may explain the initial overheating)...
...a new alternator belt (which made the car CRANK and drive, but only for so long)...
...and new clamps. Which, hasn't affected anything so far..yet...
To answer your questions, I have not officially cleaned the cable ends that go into the clamps; and no, I have not checked the other things lol. Gimme a few minutes hahaha
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Post by bizarro on Jun 25, 2015 15:03:43 GMT -5
No.....nooooo....... "Hum de dum, this is interesting" "This seems ok...." "Ahhh, what have we here?" Lmao ....... I got nothin' on that.
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Post by bizarro on Jun 25, 2015 15:14:17 GMT -5
This is the negative cable, folks, from one end to the other. I don't know what to make of this, why and WHAT the shit does the rounder hook up to?? I'm gonna freak out, man, someone get me a valium!!! Lmao
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Post by bizarro on Jun 25, 2015 15:23:26 GMT -5
It's like I wanna open my chiltons, but I'm so shocked I can't lol
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Post by bizarro on Jun 25, 2015 15:35:21 GMT -5
K, the Medalist is charged, just hooked up the Everstart and...it's less of a charge then the Medalist?? Then again she was sitting for two weeks. Oh no....i think I just messed it all up.....I just put the Everlast on to charge when I actually wanted to wait until I got my keys back in (to start it as it was).....for the love of fudgesickles. ...
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Post by madmatt on Jun 25, 2015 16:04:41 GMT -5
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Post by bizarro on Jun 25, 2015 19:52:02 GMT -5
Actually, nothing worked lol. I viewed no images haha
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Post by bizarro on Jun 25, 2015 19:52:43 GMT -5
And I might as well just replace all said wiring on payday
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Post by bizarro on Jun 25, 2015 22:51:24 GMT -5
Ok, the Everstart Maxx lol battery just NOW finished charging....and she's at 13.3....*I'm gonna shut this down for the night. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have my keys back!!
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Post by Armageddous on Jun 26, 2015 9:59:43 GMT -5
Does that wire you pictured that is not connected belong to the main ground cable? If so it should be bolted to your transmission, which is the main ground for your starter/charging system..
Terry
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Post by sp0ngebob on Jun 26, 2015 14:00:15 GMT -5
Its what terry said but we dont know what END of the cable that is. could be trans side could be battery side.
that other ground/wire thats by the radiator is actually a ground. it bolts to the little "plate" that covers up half the opening in the front of the car. I had this freefloating around for years and couldnt figure out why my intermittent wipers never worked right. turns out this was the ground for that.
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Post by bizarro on Jun 26, 2015 21:19:19 GMT -5
No keys today....
Terry, The entire negative cable is visible in the final(5th) photograph. *scrolling up*yup. The 3rd photograph, is where negative cable is "attached" to the frame.
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Post by bizarro on Jun 26, 2015 21:20:56 GMT -5
Makes sense, it being a ground. So one wire, the negative cable, is hooked to the frame by the radiator as well as under the car? (yes, but....what?)
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Post by bizarro on Jun 27, 2015 19:00:34 GMT -5
AND it might explain why my rear wiper does not function...just remembered that
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Post by bizarro on Jun 29, 2015 14:42:12 GMT -5
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Post by bizarro on Jun 29, 2015 14:43:14 GMT -5
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Post by bizarro on Jul 8, 2015 12:32:50 GMT -5
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