al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Jul 30, 2012 14:04:41 GMT -5
hey i recently bought a justy as of this weekend i did a compression test and a leakdown test, not too pretty the compression test came back like crap (i forgot the numbers) and the leak down test came back and all but 2 cyclenders leaked 90% but suprisingly it starts up everytime with that being said i am edjucating myself as much i can before i pull the whole engine and transmisson and just go to town. ill be keeping this updated. Attachments:
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Aug 1, 2012 12:40:24 GMT -5
is there any other bolts besides the head bolts that are one time use?
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Post by justyjuggler on Aug 1, 2012 12:56:41 GMT -5
is there any other bolts besides the head bolts that are one time use? All exhaust hardware
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Aug 1, 2012 13:01:24 GMT -5
ok thank you is there a website you know of so i can get the torq specs or patterns on how to tighten special parts?
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Post by madmatt on Aug 12, 2012 10:11:13 GMT -5
Dusty's Justy site; www.dustysjustys.com/Has torque specs. A thrown rod on one our our race motors was diagnosed as "stretched to plastic" failure of the lower rod cap bolts... If you're changing lower bearings, I'd suggest getting new cap bolts... er studs Matt
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Aug 13, 2012 14:19:29 GMT -5
ok thank you. i just pulled the motor yesterday but i got stuck with the pullie, i need to get a breaker bar. once i take off the head i can see if its something i will be able to rebuild it.
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dogoman
A Boxer engine will fit in a Justy, its called a WRX
Posts: 445
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Post by dogoman on Aug 18, 2012 2:58:10 GMT -5
it could also just be a blown head gasket like mine was, planed the head and a new gasket, back up to 130 psi on all cyls and running great
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Aug 22, 2012 13:42:53 GMT -5
Ya that's what my dad told me. But I figured since I already got it pulled I should replace it all and rebuild it completely since it isn't my daily driver yet. But I currently am stuck getting the flywheel off I zapped it with impacts tourched it put a big cheater bar and still didn't break I really don't wanna drill it out. Hoping maybe I can use the starter to break it free
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Sept 3, 2012 13:56:55 GMT -5
i got the pully bolt free finally able to get a look into the head i burnt a valve just gotta get a new valve re seed all the valves adjust them, and since i am already in it i was gonna put new piston rings water pump oil pump. ect. but i also noticed that inside the block the ooil and water pump has a little bit of play in the chain. is this normal? or should i be looking into replacing that as well
thanks. al
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Post by Armageddous on Sept 4, 2012 0:41:10 GMT -5
If you plan to keep the car you might as well replace the guide, chain and water pump seals. Unless you have good luck (which it sounds like you don't) and the crank cog comes off, you will need to take out the crank in order to get the chain and guide out. So it's your choice really. Terry
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Sept 4, 2012 14:00:18 GMT -5
thank you i do plan on driving it as a dialy driver ive just never ben these deep into a motor and was curious if it was normal or not. i will change it too, i need to go to junk yards lookin for a new head and intake.
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Sept 4, 2013 21:12:01 GMT -5
I know its ben awhile since I've updated this thread since then I haven't "worked" on the ol' justy besides painted it amf put a little lip on the hatch.but I have ben buying a bunch of parts I got head bolts pistons and rings bearings journals gasket set clutch set and a nice exhaust I will continue to keep posting as I start to build this motor and attach pictures, but until then I got some more parts to get.
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Post by santaclaw on Sept 6, 2013 3:20:27 GMT -5
I know its ben awhile since I've updated this thread since then I haven't "worked" on the ol' justy besides painted it amf put a little lip on the hatch.but I have ben buying a bunch of parts I got head bolts pistons and rings bearings journals gasket set clutch set and a nice exhaust I will continue to keep posting as I start to build this motor and attach pictures, but until then I got some more parts to get. I'm looking forward to hear about your progress... I'm considering an engine swap + rebuild myself. By the way, I'm kinda thinking I should be in a mental institution, because in your first post I read "I am edjucating myself " as "I am ejaculating myself" 3-4 times before I got it right.....
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Oct 2, 2013 10:24:50 GMT -5
I got the head finished got new exhaust vavles finished putting in new valves seals cam seals and adjusted the valves and I have a buddy making me headers as we speak, then I gotta order a few last parts then bore out the block should be running here shortly. Pics will be coming too!!
90 1.2carb flat green.
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Post by santaclaw on Oct 2, 2013 11:41:01 GMT -5
Looking forward to the pics
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Post by santaclaw on Oct 2, 2013 18:50:13 GMT -5
Just curious, how does the carburetor Justy engines work with headers? I thought I read somewhere that it needs the resistance found in the stock exhaust due to the overlapping of the valves, and that you need a performance camshaft with less overlapping if you remove it, or you risk terrible fuel consumption and less performance? I don't know this, but I think I read it somewhere.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Oct 4, 2013 12:14:29 GMT -5
ovelapping valves is actually for high end power. it means that as the exhaust valve is closing the intake valve is already slightly open, depending on the severity of overlap. the vacuum that the "puff" of exhaust gas leaves helps draw in the new air/fuel for the next combustion cycle. if you need proof look at the specs (mostly at what degree they start opening) of any high revving motors camshafts. honda s2000 is a great example of this.
the giant internet debate about whether or not you need backpressure will forever rage on. mostly with people that have 0 engineering/science background and those that work in muffler shops.
if you tuned out all the overlap in a camshaft you would theoretically have incredible low end tq but the car would fall on its face just off of idle. BTW, this is all predicated on the idea that your intake manifold and cylinder head specs somehow magically supports your camshaft choice without any changes. in reality things like runner length, runner diameter even shape matter (for the most part).
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Post by santaclaw on Oct 4, 2013 13:09:29 GMT -5
ovelapping valves is actually for high end power. it means that as the exhaust valve is closing the intake valve is already slightly open, depending on the severity of overlap. the vacuum that the "puff" of exhaust gas leaves helps draw in the new air/fuel for the next combustion cycle. if you need proof look at the specs (mostly at what degree they start opening) of any high revving motors camshafts. honda s2000 is a great example of this. The idea is if the duration of the overlapping is to long, or the back pressure is to low, you'll end up pulling a lot of pre mixed fuel/air into the exhaust, NOT good for the fuel economy. That of course is at LOW rpm. High revving camshafts should have more overlap because the air\exhaust has less time to "react". The closure of the exhaust valve can also create a slight overpressure in the combustion chamber if the cam\exhaust\headers/intake is tuned correctly. From what I think I read somewhere, the Justy's massive muffler\flame damper in the stock manifold AND restrictive exhaust system in general creates a lot of back pressure, so the valves has a lot of overlap/duration from factory to overcome this back pressure. And that simply removing the restrictive stock manifold, for a set of headers, will make a stock engine, with a cam optimized for this highly restrictive exhaust system perform noticeably worse and with higher fuel consumption. In theory, the Engine should have more HP at high rpm, but loose some low end torque, higher fuel consumption, become more difficult to start and perhaps struggle idling.. Again I might be wrong, it will be interesting to see how this engine, and that of the Orange "Rally" Justy works.
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Post by madmatt on Oct 6, 2013 21:18:06 GMT -5
for what it's worth...
When we first ran the Justy back in '04-'05, I gutted the cat, and installed a 1.75" free flowing exhaust (straight pipe with a glass pack) with the stock header and stock cam. At that time we were running 9.2:1 compression and a lightened flywheel, everything else was stock. It idled like a Harley, and the "seat of the pants" dyno said it ran better from 3-5000 rpm. Pulled better in 2nd and 3rd, but then there was 10lbs less flywheel too...
If I was to spend a ton of time building I would also try to get the valve train to a point it could rev higher... stock cam and valve springs run out at 5000. you can rev higher but for what... I tried to start the beast yesterday, but my battery was pretty much flat, and I ran out of time to charge/boost, so we'll have to wait for the results of the big cam and the header...
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Dec 18, 2013 2:40:10 GMT -5
So I was finally able to find a machine shop to bore and hone my block I have it all sitting in my room gonna start assembling it tonight I'm running .5 over on pistons and rings I was finally able to figure out how to put on the rings was a little sketch out by that but was way easier then I thought. I have to put the bearings in crank oil pump water pump I already put together the only thing I'll have to wait to get is the clutch kit my local napa is the only store that'll get it for 160$ with everything even the throw out bearing. Once it's running stock I'm going to bring it to my friend and do what madmatt said use the existing head and run a pipe from the cat back and I also ended up getting a bike muffler with a baffle inside it's all carbon fiber tbr just wanted some feed back about putting it on the side infornt of the tire is that a bad idea?
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