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Post by indkid87 on Dec 18, 2013 8:57:52 GMT -5
I have a side exit exhaust on my car, it ends up about half way down the rear door. I've had no issues with it besides it being louder than it was out the back, I also have a stripped interior and nothing but a glass pack to quiet it though.
-Dave
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Dec 28, 2013 5:42:44 GMT -5
That is what's in my pipe, So I got the engine block built but I can't find my distributor bolts does anyone know where or have some I can get?
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Post by blacklight on Dec 28, 2013 6:58:31 GMT -5
Isn't it plain M6 bolts? Use standard bolts and a washer. :S Easy as that. You can get em at a hardware store.
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Dec 28, 2013 8:54:21 GMT -5
So would you happen to know the length and thread? Ha or should I just go in the store with the head and distributor?
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Post by blacklight on Dec 28, 2013 16:39:35 GMT -5
I think mine were 20 mm long. Instead of doing it the hard way, you could always take a caliper and take the reading yourself.
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Jan 6, 2014 0:42:26 GMT -5
I got the distributor bolts and the crank Pulley bolt about ready to slap on the head on and hope for the best once I get to an actually computer I'll create a photobucket and upload the tons of pictures I got
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Jan 10, 2014 6:25:11 GMT -5
I need some help timing it when it's on tdc to the crankshaft pulley key what stroke is it to the cam?
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Post by blacklight on Jan 10, 2014 11:33:20 GMT -5
Just use the timing marks on the cam belt pulleys to get it right. The triple (?) mark on the alternator belt pulley is for cylinder 1 (closest to the distributor.)
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Jan 10, 2014 12:47:27 GMT -5
I haven't bolted on the head yet I was turning it so if that piston is at tdc would it be on the combustion stroke
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Post by blacklight on Jan 10, 2014 15:49:38 GMT -5
It's much easier to do it with the head bolted onto the block, but it you really feel you need to do it the hard way, just put the cam belt pulley onto the cam shaft and turn it until the hole on the pulley is at 12 o'clock and the valves closest to where the distributor should be is closed.
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Post by madmatt on Jan 10, 2014 18:01:40 GMT -5
There is so much dwell at tdc, you really need to use the marks. Looking at the piston will only get you withing 5 degrees. Enough you could be out a whole belt tooth.
Bolt it up. then use the marks.
Matt
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Jan 10, 2014 23:18:50 GMT -5
Ok thank you madmatt I was just a little worried about it opening and smacking the pistons and a complete disaster after all that time and money getting everything. Once I get finished I'll post the pictures I have and link my video
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Post by blacklight on Jan 11, 2014 7:35:55 GMT -5
Actually, these engine is of the freewheeling type, meaning the pistons goes to the top without hitting the valves in the event of a cam belt failure.
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Jan 11, 2014 9:14:22 GMT -5
Really that's bad ass the trusty justy lives on
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Jan 11, 2014 9:17:39 GMT -5
I let my brother narrowed my old phone with all the vacuum lines for my carb and he accidently broke the screen hoping I can download the pictures onto a flash drive if not a whole lot of research is gonna have to get done to figure out the mess
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Jan 24, 2014 16:36:36 GMT -5
I finally bolted up the head carb intake manifold timed it now I'm ready to drop the engine back in and start her up but I was wondering since my old phone with all my detailed pictures got shattered if anybody has detailed pic of all the vacuum lines going into the carb and which whoses they're coming from anything would help
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Feb 1, 2014 3:45:54 GMT -5
So I finally dropped the motor back in started filling it with fluids and put coolant in but it's draining out of the wheeping hole I did replace the water pump and seals I wondered if I mangled the spring seal as I was putting together can I still access it with the motor in their
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Feb 1, 2014 4:12:49 GMT -5
I believe it's the mechanical seal I have a back up one that came with the gasket set is it possible to put it on with the front assembly still attached, it was a pain in the ass to drop it back in
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Feb 1, 2014 21:04:15 GMT -5
Still wheeping don't know why. Any suggestions? I put a new mechanical seal spacer ect but fill her up and it drains
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al
Posts: 90
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Post by al on Feb 25, 2014 13:54:02 GMT -5
Figured out the coolant issues the first time I put in the mechanical seal I damaged it with a socket and once I put the engine back in I noticed the drip so I tried and put a new seal in with the engine in and managed to get the old one out and put a new one in so I filled it up again still the same problem, so I called my dad had him help me yank the motor back out and looked close at it figured I didn't set the seal in all the way. This time I used a 1/4" extension and tapped it in a star pattern on the metal side until I herd the pitch change now it's time to drop her back in
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