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Post by mrrubburn on Jan 11, 2017 13:39:27 GMT -5
My engine is not getting to operating temperature,its over cooling so, I installed a manual ball valve after the t stat but im scared that I might do damage to something if pressure rises too much, the only setting i haven t tried on yet is fully closed ( completely isolating the radiator ). I set it to half closed, no effect, 3/4 closed no effect, 8/10 closed no effect , why wont this coolant heat up? !!! I checked the thermostat in boiling water and confirmed the temperature with an infrared heat reader, the t stat opens perfectly. Lets go over everything: New nissan 85 degree thermostat new water pump new radiator fan always off heater core is clean with no leaks half the radiator blocked with a piece of cardboard topped up with coolant with no leaks And restricted flow to the radiator with a manual ball valve with half closed, 3/4 closed and 8/10 closed with no effects. Yesterday before I installed this manual ball valve I sat in traffic for about 20 mins and it made to 1/3 of the gauge with no fan or nothing, and something remarkable happened... I got heat in the cabin .... but once I started moving again its back on the C line -_-... crap
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Post by jasin on Jan 11, 2017 14:46:58 GMT -5
Where do you live? Whats the temperature outside? It is strange but still seems like a thermostat issue.
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Post by madmatt on Jan 12, 2017 12:27:22 GMT -5
M I checked the thermostat in boiling water and confirmed the temperature with an infrared heat reader, the t stat opens perfectly. ... crap You confirmed the temperature with the IR thermo in the car? If not I would do that. What Fuel system? Perhaps partially clogged ports in head? If carb'd those ports in the intake runners are pretty small... Just a thought..
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Post by mrrubburn on Jan 12, 2017 12:50:07 GMT -5
I recently did a head gasket and and cleaned the whole head and manifolds, I also changed the temperature gauge and the temperature sensor found on the intake manifold. I know it sounds like thermostat issue but I changed over 4 thermostat in the last 2 1/2 years with no effect.... I ll try to change it again and install one without a jiggle pin maybe that will work... Im going nuts here because this is my only car that takes me to work and back and i dont have the money for a new car if it breaks down I have asked over 10 mechanics about this issue (not exaggerating) they all told me that im lucky its staying cold.. followed by a stupid story about a shitty overheating car with no thermostat they had in their experience -_-... No one seems to get the idea of Operating temperature around here... they say the colder, the better..idiots I live in malta temperature outside is about 10 degrees (we never get negative number temperatures here) Anyway I really appreciate all you guys trying to help me out and sorry if I sound like a lunatic, but I honestly think its the end of my career if this car breaks down on me... Im currently an apprentice mechanic and continuing my studies on diagnostics next year, so hopefully ill understand EFI justy s too and be able to help you guys out where I can because my justy is carb Thanks again guys
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Post by certimafied on Jan 12, 2017 13:54:09 GMT -5
I know you've done a thermostat already but that still sounds like your issue. Could you possibly have the wrong thermostat for the car or have it upside down? I would try pulling the hose off of the Tstat housing with the engine cold and then start the engine to see if water was flowing through the Tstat cold. If it is that is your problem for sure whether it's the wrong unit or it's not fully closing. In my mind that is the only logical thing it could be otherwise it seems the engine would be running hot, not cold. I agree with Matt too, make sure that it's not a false indication of engine temperature.
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Post by mrrubburn on Jan 12, 2017 17:38:26 GMT -5
Update:-D I got it to operating temperature finally! :-D I closed almost all of the manual ball valve to the radiator, and sure enough the temperature went up to half mark, that tells me that the thermostat is opening too soon or still letting coolant flow even when it is cold like you guys said :-D... I cant believe im going to have to change the thermostat again(6th time)-_-... ill try to find a thermostat with no jiggle pin for it because my current t stat has a jiggle pin.
Thanks guys i ll keep you updated when i change the t stat this week, probably tomorrow :-D cheers
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Post by jasin on Jan 13, 2017 3:47:09 GMT -5
are you sure you put thermostat the right direction? as far as i remmember it is bossible to put it in both ways
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Post by mrrubburn on Jan 13, 2017 12:15:33 GMT -5
Im sure its the right way mate ... but guess what.... I found an 88 degree no jiggle pin thermostat that works I think its the original because I remember changing this thermostat and found out it was the water pump that was the overheating problem a while back. Im going to install it now wish me luck guys! Cheers MrRubburn
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Post by mrrubburn on Jan 13, 2017 14:33:44 GMT -5
If the engine is cold and the thermostat has no jiggle pin, should coolant still flow to the radiator or absolutely no coolant should flow to the radiator??
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Post by certimafied on Jan 15, 2017 10:17:41 GMT -5
I don't believe there should be any coolant flow and even if there was a jiggle pin it shouldn't be very much flow at all. If the system works right the coolant (when cold) should circulate through the water pump engine block head intake and heater core until it is hot enough to open the thermostat allowing coolant to flow to the radiator. Glad your beginning to have some success!
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Post by mrrubburn on Jan 16, 2017 13:15:10 GMT -5
I think the thermostat is not seating properly when closed im going to have to buy a new original thermostat and they are not cheap! 27 euros!! I hate their supplier here -_- I tested the t stat without a housing, just holding it there with my finger, I noticed coolant was still leaking through the valve, I also noticed that the valve itself does not seat on rubber but metal to metal so unless it has a perfect seat, it will leak... I think I ll try the nissan t stat again and solder the jiggle pin hole and see what happens because it has a rubber seat and shouldn t leak
Cheers and thanks guys :-)
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Post by mrrubburn on Jan 20, 2017 18:30:44 GMT -5
Fixed!! the housing where the thermostat sits was a bit corroded so coolant actually lifting the t stat in its housing passing around it! A little bit of instant gasket on the thermostat and VOILA I got heat and temperature gauge is moving away from cold Can you believe someone actually told me that it could be a bad water pump??? I taught a bad pump causes overheating not the other way round... -_- Anyways it s finally solved! Thanks for all your help guys I really appreciate it and will help others on this forum where I can! I will start posting on facebook soon cause I joined Cheers Mates!
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Post by dez on Jan 20, 2017 20:16:51 GMT -5
Sweet, I didn't think of that at all, great info!
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Post by kcswimrac on Jan 21, 2017 15:59:37 GMT -5
I'm coming in late and glad the problem has been solved! I just want to answer the question of if there should be some coolant flow to the radiator even when cold.
The answer is yes but very little, there's typically the jiggle pin or a small hole in the blocking plate to let some coolant by, this is so you're still circulating water past the thermostat, which allows the thermostat to know when the engine is hot and needs to open. If there was no hole, there would be no flow and no water movement, means colder water by the thermostat, so it would only open when the heat was convected through the water or it got shaken around enough to mix the temperature difference.
All right just thought i'd though that out there since i actually knew an answer to that question. Best of luck with your Justy!!
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Post by aberlin on Feb 1, 2017 12:01:03 GMT -5
Congrats glad you figured it out! i should go look mine, the last thermostat i ordered from rockauto was much smaller than the oem one i pulled out, i had to swap the gaskets between them.
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