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Post by zachstevens5 on May 23, 2016 23:33:14 GMT -5
95 1.2l mpfi GL 4x4 justy
So this started out having a broken wire on the harness, ran with no check engine light for two months. Now after the car warms up it starts to stutter at idle or if driving it will jerk the car down the road, then the check engine light pops on and it will drive fine. Since i have the four wires for the dizzy redone i have just unplugged the tdc sensor so the check engine light stays on and it doesnt buck me when its ready. Would this be the pickup coil that has failed since it only happens once warm and the car goes to open loop? Is there a way to check the tdc sensor with a multimeter?
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Post by Armageddous on May 24, 2016 22:10:08 GMT -5
You can check the pickup coil with a multimeter by doing a resistance test. I don't have specs tho. Just compare it to the other one.
If the wiring is good I would assume it's that pick up coil going bad, unless it's an air gap issue. Heat plays a big part in winding resistance.
Terry
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Post by zachstevens5 on May 25, 2016 20:46:43 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply. Getting a known good dist. from a junkyard so they say, gonna try that. The one in the car is a reman the previous owner put in, wondering if the parts they use are poor quality only been in for three years or so. Does anybody know what the airgap is supposed to be set at for the pickup coil?
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Post by zachstevens5 on May 29, 2016 10:38:59 GMT -5
Installed new/used distributor and the problem is no longer.
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Post by Armageddous on May 30, 2016 15:04:32 GMT -5
Awesome. Sounds like there was a bad pickup.
Terry
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Post by zachstevens5 on Jun 2, 2016 16:51:05 GMT -5
Yeah think so the ohm readings from the reman to the oem was big difference! Have anyone ever had oil leak out of there weep hole on the water pump?
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Post by Armageddous on Jun 3, 2016 1:04:01 GMT -5
Yes it means the mechanical seal on the back side of the waterpump impeller has failed and needs to be replaced.
Unless you have a lot of expirence and the special tools, this can suck. For a first timer it's usually better to remove the crankcase cover and replace the seals with it on the bench.
Terry
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Post by zachstevens5 on Jun 3, 2016 12:38:48 GMT -5
Thats what i was thinking, i just rebuilt the engine maybe 1200 miles ago. The mechanical seal is the one with a metal housing around it that gets pressed in to the cover?
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Post by Armageddous on Jun 3, 2016 21:20:34 GMT -5
Yes
Terry
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