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Post by bizarro on Dec 4, 2015 15:28:33 GMT -5
Current visual #2 Now I've checked those fuses (thank you, Armageddeous) and discovered one WAS a bust, so I replaced it a little bit ago, and still no cranking over. Meanwhile...I'm thinking about... Douchebags ripped this up, ...and my carb has a leak... What am I missing here.....
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Post by bizarro on Dec 4, 2015 16:15:08 GMT -5
Ok, maybe I should ask "does not having the ignition switch affect the electrical aspect of this vehicles....electrical system?"
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Post by Armageddous on Dec 5, 2015 0:02:51 GMT -5
The switch shouldn't make a difference.
Do you have a test light?
Terry
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Post by bizarro on Dec 5, 2015 1:10:38 GMT -5
I've had a few, I'm going to bed, I've gone cross-eyed......"test light"??
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Post by Armageddous on Dec 5, 2015 21:21:46 GMT -5
A light for testing power. So I can direct you to find the problem.
Terry
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Post by bizarro on Dec 5, 2015 23:48:50 GMT -5
"What is the soup de jour?" "....it's the soup of the day." Kinda feel like THAT right now. yes...a test light...no I do not have one, but now I know what to pick up on my next paycheck haha. Thanks man...ay.... **edit, 2 minutes later** So I Googled "test light" and I now feel even stupider. I in fact DO have a "test light", I just simply didn't realize it's also a name for "multimeter"-which I do have. Yikes...I'm in trouble
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Post by sp0ngebob on Dec 6, 2015 19:55:23 GMT -5
your carb isnt leaking. you have extreme blow by in at least one of your cylinders. that oil right?
its from the positive crank case valve or PCV valve letting blow-by gasses into the carb pan and thus a shitload of oil.
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Post by bizarro on Dec 6, 2015 20:08:17 GMT -5
That is fuel. So I'm now thinking that may be a gasket issue; had the same problem with my '73 Fury(v8). Naw...that's gasoline...the filter is completely soaked in fuel.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Dec 7, 2015 11:07:28 GMT -5
how are you getting fuel ABOVE the carburetor when it all works on gravity and the fuel feed is about 2in below that?
and youre positive its fuel...why has it not evaporated over the few days that your car is immobile?
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Post by bizarro on Dec 7, 2015 12:30:26 GMT -5
I have no clue...yet...
And the fuel itself may be evaporated to a certain extent, but the odors remain strong.
Except I feel this has to be the start of a new thread, so I'm gonna start one.
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Post by certimafied on Dec 8, 2015 10:14:18 GMT -5
I dont really have any input for you at the moment, but I do however have questions for you.
When you say not cranking you mean the engine isnt turning over or it won't run?
Do you know why that fuse blew and have you corrected it?
What are those switches for in your above picture?
I popped that fuse once, kind of embarrassing to say it was because I was moving to quick and put my battery in backwards silly me. Of course I had that style of fuse but not the right amperage darn...
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Post by bizarro on Dec 8, 2015 12:10:45 GMT -5
Hey man, I've come close to putting in my battery backwards hahaha.... Timeline? Purchase car(dies on way home) Buy new battery(after a jump) Arrive home ... Install new alternator belt (only after realizing the alternator is off an '89 Nissan) Change the filthy, disgusting oil She finally runs!! Kinda sorta, she keeps dying while out on the road... Took a trip to Alaska Come back She immediately gets broken into, and the ignition switch becomes null and void. Ex-girlfriends new boyfriend comes over(sorry guys, sorta forgot to tell yall THAT part) and attempts to remove ignition switch; unsuccessful. Few weeks later, I go out to the car and noticed THIS wire all hangly-dangly; unable to remember if that was dude's doing or not. I then assumed she was broken into a second time..eh. Finally removed ignition switch (I've covered the battery issues on other threads, might want to check those out) Soooo the original battery(the wally-world Everlast) is now reversing it's role as "the battery that seems to work best" and is now unable to provide ANY juice at all, enough to kick on the clock, but that's it...... ........and the brand-new Bi-Mart Medalist battery has reversed ITS role as "the battery that doesn't seem to work"; it is providing enough juice to kinda make it gag a lil, but no real cranking at all... ...and the red fuse (30a) blew sometime in the past few days of trying to get it to crank. So now I have said issues, and I've just discovered that my pan for the air filter has a pool of oil/fuel mix in it and the filter itself could make a great "RING OF FIRE" prop for any ballsy hamsters out there.... To answer your questions, Won't even crank over Not sure why fuse blew And those switches and wires are part of the motley foglight setup the previous owner installed. It was nice and neat and connected properly(I THINK) until it was broken into and they destroyed everything trying to figure out why the farclein' thing wasn't doing nothin' BECAUSE THERE WASN'T EVEN A farcleIN' BATTERY IN THE DAMN THINK YOU farcleING RETARDS!!!!!!!!!! !!!! !!!! Sorry. Whew. So yeah. I have no idea what the hell.
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Post by certimafied on Dec 8, 2015 13:27:44 GMT -5
Geez sounds like your justy craves attention like mine does lol. I remember reading your ign. switch thread wasn't sure where you were with it.
Those wires you just found kind of look like they were part of the original ign. switch that got busted up. If I had to guess I would say those caused your fuse to pop and probably has a role in your no crank issue. May even be part of your battery dying too.
If you have a battery charger I would fully charge the batteries you have and while testing things on the car (with charged) be sure to have that charger connected.
Before you connect the second battery cable to the battery put your test light in between the cable and the battery, with doors shut and everything off, if the light shines bright there is a big voltage drain that is killing your battery if its barely glowing that is probably normal draw from your clock. In either case if you wanted to try and pinpoint the trouble circuit begine pulling fuses until you see the light go out.I know this isnt your concern now but since your there any way.
As for the cranking issue... I'm still not sure do you have a new ign switch installed now or are you still in the process? If you do have the ign switch replaced and you feel it is all as it should, connect your test light in between the small wire on your starter and either ground or that small terminal on the starter. Then have somebody try to crank the engine, if the light shines then you have your starter signal, if not then your starter signal is dropping off somewhere. If its missing the signal go to the switch and be sure power is going threw the switch, if its there and it still didnt turn over be sure that your starters big cable had full battery voltage. If you have a signal and battery voltage be sure the signal voltage is close to 12v you may be getting a signal but not a strong enough signal
I'm out of time right now but will try and get back on in a little while to continue, sorry for making you repeat yourself some.
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Post by bizarro on Dec 8, 2015 14:25:08 GMT -5
Ah that's cool lol. Ah both batteries are fully charged. I was thinking that wire might have something to do with it. I have no ignition switch, this is what it looks like at the moment (But that's also from THIS)
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Post by certimafied on Dec 8, 2015 20:13:27 GMT -5
Ok so your trying to get the old unit out and put the new unit in. That is the new switch I am seeing in the last picture then. Sorry never done an ignition switch on a justy just trying to get in the situation I want to help get this sucker goin.
I want to add some flood/fog lights to my justy at some point, right now ill go with running solid though. sigh, I think the saying goes nothing worth having comes easy.
Now that I got the background I'll say dont quote me on those mystery wires with piece being from the ignition switch but I do still think they had something to do with something lol.
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Post by bizarro on Dec 8, 2015 20:40:47 GMT -5
I'm a little off today. The switch...the turny-thingy...in the first pic...my bad...not the SWITCH, but the silver unit that houses the switch(third pic) I had to remove because not only was it destroyed, but the ASSHOLES made to where my steering wheel was locked. So I took it out, except not she's not turning over (which makes me sorta think that hangly-dangly wire DOES have something to do with it)
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Post by certimafied on Dec 13, 2015 20:54:35 GMT -5
Ok i know several days after I said I would respond, people accept for who i am, I am back with a response. I looked it up and had to search too, I do after all believe that the wires with little pieces attached was from the ign. switch. In my factory service manual for an 88 justy, those two wires with separate green plug would be attached two ign switch. One would be to the safety belt buzzer and one to the battery, which would explain the blown main fuse. Thats all I have for now until there is some more input...
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Post by bizarro on Dec 13, 2015 21:12:43 GMT -5
Awesome yaaay so now I have to figure out how to bypass it...
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Post by madmatt on Dec 14, 2015 15:26:16 GMT -5
Biz....
sure you can bypass, but what is that going to do for you?
I'm gonna go all SJ on you and say
"FIX IT RIGHT!, WITH THE RIGHT PARTS, GO TO THE WRECK YARD AND GET WHAT YOU NEED"
there, feel better?
if you want to bypass all the stock components you are re-engineering the system. take it from me, it's a pain, and always full of "oops"...
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Post by bizarro on Dec 14, 2015 21:29:41 GMT -5
Right now, I could care less about this part . If THIS is now the "bridge with no home" , then I have no problems rigging up a push-button FROM that HOWEVER(and this is now and question), if this is still the proper path, does this part (and brand-new one, of course) HAVE to be installed(and no hooked up, of course) in order for things to work properly, or can it be "bypassed", but only if the time it takes to do it equals the cost of part itself...because that's my point here... I can't afford the cost of the part yet, but I CAN afford a re-wiring IF it's around 20 or less and IF it's about the same hassle as getting a new unit back on. (But I wouldn't know how to go about that yet of course) Either way, I'm gonna get a push-button anyways.
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