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Post by therav3n on Feb 28, 2015 23:14:09 GMT -5
My clutch is really really REALLY bad. I'll put it in gear and let the clutch out and press the gas, it'll just rev really high and start moving very slowly. (won't go any faster then 15mph) Since the engine is so tiny, I assumed it is pretty easy to replace the clutch. I know the transmission is bigger then the engine, any special way to do this or a guide?
Also my check engine light is flashing. No codes, no loose connections. Just flashes, absolutely no change in running. I'm guessing I can get through emissions here in arizona because they only really care about the check engine light if the car is 1996 and newer. (Almost impossible for them to tell why the light is on.) I plan to put new carpet in and fix the windows. (when it rains the floor of the car gets soaked, through the door panel) it destroyed the door speakers and I don't want to put any new speakers or anything without that. There is no power going to the radio, so I guess I'll just use my bluetooth speaker when driving.
aaaand one more thing, when in gear, there is about 6in of play while in gear. It also grinds when going into reverse. Almost every time. I'm guessing because the clutch is so bad?? Thanks for all the help.
1988 Subaru justy 5Speed Carb'd
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Post by sp0ngebob on Mar 1, 2015 22:52:04 GMT -5
i dont think there is a guide, but heres a word of advice.
mark all your vacuum lines wiht a piece of masking tape and a number. put the same numbe on the fitting that vac hose goes to. 1, 1. 2,2. 17,17. i had about 25ish vac lines and mine is a 4wd so i had a few for that.
the TOB was almost impossible for me to finagle back onto the input shaft. long story but the little retaining springs were NOT cooperating.
consider replacing the transmission input seal at this time.
oh last pointer, the motor/trans combo is designed to come out the top of the car. I propped my hood open to the "second spot" to get it to open higher and had enough clearance to pull the combo from the top. theres these interesting little divots and cut outs in the body that allow clearance. really clever actually.
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Post by madmatt on Mar 2, 2015 14:35:28 GMT -5
There's no guide here so to speak... But there are lot's of documented "engine pulls" The motor comes out pretty much just as easy with the transmission as without, and certainly, in my experience lining up the two when putting back together is easier out of the car. Your carbed car is a bit easier in some ways, tougher in others. sp If going out the top (up) pull everthing up front including the upper rad support. You have 3 less inches of room to squeeze it out then the second gen cars do. Pulling that upper rad support makes it a piece of cake to fit. Halfway down this page you see the gaping hole you get if you do... (you don't need to pull the bumper!!! just the rad, and upper rad support, even leaving the plastic grill in place is fine, but don't hit it... you could break it.) subarujusty.proboards.com/thread/2915/orange-rally-justy-returns?page=2 The motor is actually installed from below in the factory, and if you have the equipment to get the car that high, it's super easy to drop it out. But you need big jack stands or a hoist, and a decent "transmission jack" or equivalent to lower the lump down with. Black light has a decent rebuild thread here, it's a gen 2, and efi so there are differences there. subarujusty.proboards.com/thread/4939/engine-rebuildCertimified recently did some clutch work that has ended in him rebuilding the whole motor. He pulled the engine and left the transmission in place. It's a tight fit, worse on the first gen cars (like his), but it can be done. subarujusty.proboards.com/thread/5758/I would strongly recommend if you can... getting the car to a pressure washer, rent/ borrow/ buy whatever, before you do it. There is little worse then working in a disgusting mess of grease and road grime, and it get's everywhere. 20 min with a pressure wash won't get it all, but it will get so much it will be well worth it. (of course if your engine bay is clean as a wHistle, no worries!) There is a way to pull the codes for why your check engine light is on. Could be as simple as the O2 sensor. Search here for codes, and you'll find all sorts of good stuff.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Mar 2, 2015 14:46:28 GMT -5
that pressure washer thing is a good idea. most DIY car wash stalls will have SOMETHING you can use if not degreaser in the wand.
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