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Post by simon on Feb 1, 2015 17:44:56 GMT -5
Hi all,
I've got a 1993 1.2 AWD fuel injection manual Justy. UK car so RHD.
I needed to change the right side outer driveshaft cv joint boot.
The guidance seemed to be to remove driveshaft which I managed after having to undo and remove the exhaust to the side (was in the way of drifting the inner joint spring pin.) However I found that removing the driveshaft from the hub was a hell of a task as the shaft was in the bearings so tightly (strong interference fit). Should it have been so tough?
Anyway, it's one thing hammering the shaft out, but now I'm stuck with getting the bugger back in.
Any pointers or tips as to how I get it back in. I not managed to get it in far enough to use the nut and thread to tighten down on and draw the shaft out. I'm thinking of using a slide hammer?
I'm sure I've read someone say hammer from the inner joint side of the shaft, but I fear matching the force used to get the shaft out would damage the shaft.
I'm a bit stuck. This job looked straight forward but it's beating me at the moment. :-(
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Post by sp0ngebob on Feb 1, 2015 18:29:57 GMT -5
like the outter end of the shaft with the wheel bearings. put the hub back in all the differnt bakk joints. Then take a block of wood, like a 2x4 and whack the hub around where the shaft goes through the wheel bearings.
the other choice, is if its all out of the car flip the hub face down, then place the axle in the backside of the hub and drive it through the bearings with a dead blow hammer. you should never strike something metal with a metal hammer.
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Post by simon on Feb 2, 2015 4:52:09 GMT -5
like the outter end of the shaft with the wheel bearings. put the hub back in all the differnt bakk joints. Then take a block of wood, like a 2x4 and whack the hub around where the shaft goes through the wheel bearings. the other choice, is if its all out of the car flip the hub face down, then place the axle in the backside of the hub and drive it through the bearings with a dead blow hammer. you should never strike something metal with a metal hammer. Thanks for the reply, but I really don't understand the first part. Are you saying to have the drive shaft fitted at the transmission end and then hammer home? The force required to get the shaft out worries me that I'll damage the car if I do this. As for the second part, the removal of the hub carrier was partly what I was trying to avoid, as the fixings are so corroded. This is looking like what I'll have to do though.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Feb 2, 2015 11:15:17 GMT -5
sorry that should have read "line up the outer shaft with the wheel bearings" also grease the drive shaft or inside of the bearings lightly.
It should be fine to do this. otherwise you will need to do the "hub face down" and drive the axle through the bearings by hitting the driveshaft on the transmission side of the axle until it goes through the bearings
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Post by simon on Feb 2, 2015 11:19:32 GMT -5
Well, it wasn't easy, but I've got the hub carrier off. Had to proper smack the ball joint and tie rod end out, so will be replacing both items. (I tried my ball joint splitter, but the joints bent! Called it a day today as will be held up waiting for parts. Plenty of other bits to do though, like descale the hub carrier, also when I pushed the exhaust over to the side I had to split one of the nuts to get it off, this ruined the thread on the stud, which will be weakened, and has a thread pitch that doesn't match my thread dies, so thinking I'll cut it off and drill for a bolt. This was supposed to be an easy job! Not impressed with my luck, but all par for the course I guess with an older car. My only fear is I think I may have damaged the brakes removing the drive shaft from the bearings. I'll check everything with a dial gauge when I put it all back together. Still haven't tried to put the shaft back in, but the shaft measures just under 30mm, whilst the bearings are just over, so it should go in without trouble. Why it's a struggle I don't know.
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Post by simon on Feb 2, 2015 11:37:46 GMT -5
sorry that should have read "line up the outer shaft with the wheel bearings" also grease the drive shaft or inside of the bearings lightly. It should be fine to do this. otherwise you will need to do the "hub face down" and drive the axle through the bearings by hitting the driveshaft on the transmission side of the axle until it goes through the bearings Yes this is how I'll be doing it. Of course that requires the hub carrier off, and it was indeed a pain to get off, but it should now be doable at least.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Feb 2, 2015 13:42:45 GMT -5
yah it takes a bit to get it out. once you do it the first tiem its kinda easy and quick. its just getting it out of that blasted lower ball joint and the mount to the suspension...i guess i did just cover like every part of the suspension.
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Post by simon on Feb 5, 2015 15:12:46 GMT -5
So the slowest mechanic in the world is still at it... Well the good news is that the shaft is back into the bearing but what a struggle! Didn't want to damage anything, but the shaft required quite a lot of beating to get in far enough to show enough of the thread though the back to get the nut on to help draw the shaft though. I'm having to work in a single garage which isn't helping. (The driveway is on a slope, so can't jack up when on it). Anyway, now it's 'home' I'm going to check it's running true with a dial gauge, as I fear I may have done some damage taking the assembly apart. Possibly the calliper or it's carrier. Fingers crossed it's all OK. All of this nonsense because of an advisory on an MOT test, and the cv boot didn't actually look that bad. I really wished I'd left it all alone.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Feb 6, 2015 12:08:19 GMT -5
if you can break a caliper or its bracket then you can push a driveshaft through a press fit bearing with your bare hands. theres virtually 0 way to damage brake parts like that. its the hoses that are vulnerable.
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Post by simon on Feb 7, 2015 10:48:46 GMT -5
theres virtually 0 way to damage brake parts like that. You underestimate me I used a puller as well as hammering to get the shaft out, and I didn't notice the disc coming off, and the calliper and carrier was still on. The disc came off kinda wonky (tm). I've also struggled to get a gasket for the exhaust. I replaced the back box a couple of years ago and had no gasket problem. Anyway to drive the spring pin out of the shaft I had to move the exhaust over, and the gasket literally disintegrated. Well no one seems to offer a gasket that fits! The one I'm being offered for my car has a 56mm bore, but the car needs a 51mm (or 2" in old money). Trouble is the 2" gaskets don't fit the bolts, so I'm having to take a grinder to a gasket so it goes on. The larger sizes although only slightly larger really wouldn't make a good seal. So I 100% won't be ready for my free retest on the MOT. It failed on two things, and I really should have sorted them and forgot this cv boot 'til later (if at all). Lesson learned.
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Post by simon on Nov 8, 2015 16:32:21 GMT -5
Well my car was put on the back burner for a while, but a few weeks ago I put the car in for an MOT test and she only passed, and with no advisories!
The car couldn't be described as a sweet ride, but it's quirky and makes me smile, so who cares. Now I'm hoping to have some snow to play in this winter.
Happy motoring everyone.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Nov 11, 2015 18:24:19 GMT -5
i have a personal rule. if the car doesnt make me smile i dont buy it. thus, why i bought my justy. its weird, quirky, strange and capable. slow as shit but still fun.
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