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Post by spitfire on Jan 22, 2015 2:11:12 GMT -5
Hi, I have a 1991 Subaru Justy (manual 4WD MYMEII, Japanese import, 90,000kms) with no spark.
I was told I needed a new distributor part which was difficult to source in NZ and Japan. Mechanic has decided to now fit an older non-electronic (eg points and condenser variety) and now he says that I need a new coil, new resistor, new fuel pump and potentially alternator work because he thinks the alternator is overcharging and has burnt out those items. Would anyone know if using an older possibly incompatible distributor part, might have caused these additional problems over and above the distributor part.
History: Car has run fine for 1 year. Last work was radiator flushing. Had one problem 6 months ago when the car had been sat unused for a few weeks in winter and although it started fine (had bought and just fitted new battery), I got one minute down the road to a stop junction and it cut out when I pressed the accelerator pedal to go up the hill. The car was on an upward incline and now stationary. I tried several times and it started each time but cut out on pressing the accelerator to do the hill start. It was not a stall. I rolled the car to a level area and started it again and all has been fine since. Never did work out why.
Would appreciate anybody's input to assist me. The car is old and I know that things do break, but I don't wish to be ripped off.
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Post by nipper on Jan 22, 2015 20:45:16 GMT -5
You need a new mechanic, he has no idea what he is doing.
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Post by Armageddous on Jan 23, 2015 20:52:41 GMT -5
You need a new mechanic, he has no idea what he is doing. True. That being said, I can't correlate a modified distributor with a broken alternator or fuel pump. It could have wiped out your coil if the points weren't set properly or the wiring was wrong. Alternators can over charge but I highly doubt it would kill your fuel pump. You need to get a second opinion, and source a distributor for your car to make it work properly again. Terry
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Post by spitfire on Jan 25, 2015 2:15:03 GMT -5
Terry Really appreciate your time to reply here. I have had some more clarification from the mechanic, as I had expressed my surprise at this ensuing drama - this may help.
Mechanic can't source compatible part therefore uses older-style salvaged distributor part, this in turn won't work with my existing working coil (therefore new coil needed). So original coil and wiring fine, but the mechanic thinks the alternator is overcharging and this had lead to the distributor module and the fuel pump burning out. Apparently this can't be checked without replacing the fuel pump as the car needs to run. There's a good chance that the alternator will need to be overhauled too.
So what the mechanic is saying is that the old salvage distributor part isn't compatible with my existing coil. My existing coil is actually working.
Hey, I am no expert but I would have thought that if the alternator was overcharging then the battery would have fried or a fuse should have contained the damage. If that was the case, then a new battery would be on the list of "purchases" - but battery hasn't been mentioned (yet). The battery was new 5 months ago.
The cost of the salvaged distributor part plus new coil (aftermarket part) = the price of the new distributor part (I think I have found). Therefore the $ damage so far could be : salvaged distributor part, new coil, new resistor, new fuel pump and possibly alternator overhaul.
I need some input, as I can't go accusing the mechanic of adding to the bill unless I have have some facts to back it up. Second opinion is definitely the way to go here, but I don't know what that will achieve. If the fuel pump is now burnt out, we won't know who burnt it out eg me up to the point the car died - no spark, or once it got to the mechanics and what they have done subsequently. Any ideas ?
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Post by Armageddous on Jan 25, 2015 12:18:56 GMT -5
Okay, one step at a time here.
If the fuel pump is broken then it needs to be replaced.
If the alternator is removed it can be bench tested at most auto parts stores or places that deal with alternator and starter remanufacturing. The alternator would probably wipe out a lot more than your fuel pump. The fuel pumps are just a DC motor, they deal with some pretty crappy conditions as it is and higher voltage would just make it run faster. Usually an overcharging alternator will blow light bulbs, electrical components (computers, modules, fuses etc).
Most points based systems use a coil and a ballast or an internally ballasted coil. I think adding a ballast should suffice for your coil? Somebody chime in here.
I have a strong feeling he's misdiagnosed your no-start as a bad fuel pump. If the alternator DID overcharge it likely killed the engine computer which is responsible for turning the fuel pump on and giving you spark.
Terry
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Post by spitfire on Jan 26, 2015 3:55:11 GMT -5
Terry This is an old Justy 1991, not sure it has any kind of computer in it! FYI Re overcharging alternator - I haven't had any blown bulbs or fuses etc etc in the last year.
So the bottom line is ..... Based on content of posts above, do I trust the mechanic or not ? Is it feasible for all these items to need repair ?
In the meantime, I will try and get a second opinion which I assume will not impress the mechanic.
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Post by nipper on Mar 21, 2015 0:08:16 GMT -5
There are some Disty's on US ebay, not sure if you have checked those yet.
I have never seen an older Disty with points on a Subaru Justy, they have always been electronic. If this has FI it never had points in the disty.
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Post by madmatt on Mar 22, 2015 0:42:04 GMT -5
Spitfire,
To concur with Terry and Nipper...
You're getting a bit of a run around.
Your EFI justy for sure has a computer... but let's not concern ourselves with that right now (although that may be an issue now...)
Do you know what "distributor part" the mech said was bad? The solid state EFI distributors should be pretty robust...
As stated, certainly a over-voltage could have killed a bunch of stuff, including the ECU. Which, will fire the fuel pump and the ignition.
You said it stalled, but you got it going again? did you bring it to the mech running, but cutting out when trying to accelerate hard (climb the hill as you mentioned)?
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Post by nipper on Mar 22, 2015 13:23:56 GMT -5
Alos these parts can take a rather dramatic (for a car) over voltage without frying. Fuses would blow, as well as main fuses or fuseable links.
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Post by spitfire on Sept 29, 2015 5:24:04 GMT -5
Well numerous months down the line at the mechanics and it now it is fixed. So you are asking what was it? There were lots of items on the list that apparently might have needed some attention from distributor to wiring, coil, starter motor and alternator. Doesn't leave much and all sounding very expensive for an old car. Well the answer was - wrong part. If you try and fit a distributor part (coil assembly) that bears no resemblance to the broken part that came out, then maybe that's the problem. Unfortunately just because the parts shop reckons it is going to fit my car, it didn't. The wrong part wasn't producing the correct connection because the terminals were at a completely different angle and this was blindingly obvious when I compared the two parts. The short answer was I needed a new coil assembly part for the distributor, and the part was in short supply. I managed to get a part from the US, and got it fitted in 5 mins and working. So I might not know anything about mechanics, but I applied blonde female logic and now it is fixed. Unfortunately it took over 6months for me to realise that I should have investigated this earlier with the mechanic. Thank you to everyone who put their two penneth in to the Forum to try and help me out. Thanks again.
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Post by Armageddous on Sept 29, 2015 20:49:23 GMT -5
Yay!
Terry
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