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Post by cvan on Oct 6, 2014 21:07:03 GMT -5
Hi all, I finally got my first Justy (ECVT), and it is in good shape. The previous owner has some reciepts in a folder, and it shows it went in for not starting. They charged $35 for the inhibitor switch (late 90's). It's in great shape but starting has been a pain from the beginning. Half the time it just starts when turning the key. Then I developed a sequence for when it doesn't start:
1. Turn the key 2. Turn the key and push the shifter forward using my left hand 3. Turn key with shifter forward and press down the brake pedal 4. Turn the key with handle forward and REALLY press down on the brake pedal.
I don't believe the brake pedal is part of the switches to start in park, but believe it or not it worked when 1 and 2 failed repeatedly. And 4 as a last resort does seem to work when 1-3 doesn't.
Tired of leaning on the brake pedal, don't want to wear out the master cylinder with this. It's harder to start after it's been running awhile, almost always in the morning 1 or 2 does the trick.
For the first time all 1-4 didn't work. Eventually the starter engaged but then hung up after engaging the flywheel. Got Optima Red Top battery so know it isn't the battery.
So, is this the starter on it's way out, the inhibitor switch, or some relay in between causing this. Help!
Thanks
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Post by cvan on Oct 7, 2014 22:04:14 GMT -5
Don't see brakes being part of this at all, some cars there's a switch, but not Justy. I am going to bypass the inhibitor switch over the weekend and see if it has trouble starting...
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Post by indkid87 on Oct 7, 2014 23:06:58 GMT -5
What is happening when it doesn't start? Does the starter not engage at all? Does it click?
-Dave
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Post by cvan on Oct 9, 2014 20:59:40 GMT -5
Hey Dave, No click, just nothing. I found out heat has something to do with it. Afternoon in the sun and after driving awhile it is harder to start. Happened again today and I was stuck for a bit. Realized when pressing hard on the brake pedal (I know it's stupid but still did it) it would start, but by pressing on the brake it forces a side load on the shifter with my arm, which might mean the switch is starting to go.
The switch is about $65, soldering is $0. Going to solder up this switch 'real good' this weekend. If it still happens, then starter/starter solenoid.
partsgeek.com has the starter but no inhibitor switch, they have a ton of justy parts in their system (shameful plug)
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Post by indkid87 on Oct 9, 2014 22:06:03 GMT -5
I know nothing about the ecvt so I can't help you there, but bypassing the inhibitor is a good place to start.
If it's heat related that makes me think its the starter solenoid. Try tapping in the starter gently with a hammer the next time it happens. If that doesn't work you can try bypassing the solenoid (carefully) with a screwdriver or something else conductive, preferably with an insulated handle.
-Dave
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Post by cvan on Oct 10, 2014 20:21:46 GMT -5
It's got to be the heat. Yesterday I stopped at a convenience store and it didn't start. I got a mega cup of cold water and poured it over the solenoid and starter. With the hood up and doing this twice over half an hour, it did eventually start. Today I got home and have not poured cold water, after 2 1/2 hours still isn't starting. I am going to order the starter and not mess with the inhibitor switch until the starter is swapped. Will take about a week or so.
Thanks
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Post by cvan on Oct 11, 2014 12:56:31 GMT -5
Aha, ordered the starter solenoid, and this morning went to clean the battery cables. The cables have the stamped metal ends instead of the thick lead ones. Was brushing off a small layer of rust and found half the section was cracked through at the bolt hole (right before it gets swaged around the cable). This means the full amperage of the battery can only go through half the cross section of the stamped metal connector. So less amperage gets to the solenoid (why didn't hear anything, even click), and where it broke it probably gets screaming hot due to the resistance. On cold starts I bet some of the charge arcs across the gap of the break, giving just enough amperage to charge the solenoid, but after driving awhile the post connector expanded just enough to make the gap too wide. Which forced less amperage through and getting the connector really hot at the break. New lesson: besides redoing all the vacuum lines of an older car when you get it, check for wire CORROSION. Will go over all the wires and redo the ones with rust or rotted insulation. For $7 put new cable in, and the car starts up every time with much more energy. Before it would just quietly bugga-pugga-bugga-pugga until it started but now it's vroooom-vrrrrrr.
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Post by nipper on Oct 14, 2014 21:27:24 GMT -5
YAY another CVT on the board !
I have an 89 2wd GL
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Post by cvan on Oct 16, 2014 8:13:07 GMT -5
Ok, after all this guessing and drama, it did fail to turn over after the new + cable. This time I bridged the inhibitor switch, tapped on the starter and solenoid, and it finally showed itself. With the door open, put the key in for the 20th time- it did one quick ding and was expecting a ding every second or so. I jiggle the key until I get the continuous ding every second and it turned over.
So now it's about pulling out the ignition switch and hopefully have access to get rid of the carbon build up. Plus using a less worn out key. There is no relay in the wiring diagram, the full battery amperage goes through the ignition, inhibitor switch, and then to the starter solenoid.
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Post by cvan on Oct 18, 2014 20:50:05 GMT -5
Good as new, FYI if you need to bypass a fried ignition: 30A starter push button = $9 8 ft 10GA wire = $5 10GA connectors = $6 20A inline fuse holder = $6 Route 10GA wire past door seal (or firewall if inclined), snake around to mount pushbutton start on dash. Winning! Battery to inline to switch. From switch direct to starter solenoid. Turn key as usual for start, push start button. Vrooom.
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