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Post by theDaniel on Oct 30, 2011 20:55:48 GMT -5
I have an '88 Justy 4wd that I've had for 5 years. It's in need of a change of the right rear wheel bearings. However (here we go... ), the lower control arm attaching bolt is rusted fast to the bushings. I've hit it with Kano Kroil and a couple other high-end penetrating fluids, but still it is frozen solid. I can't use the oxy-acetylene on it or it'll melt/burn the bushing gone. I could drill out the bolt, but the bolt is kind'a specialized too, or at least I can't find a bolt of that length locally. How much torque can that bolt take before it twists off? No. 6 is the bushing and no. 27 is the bolt. Anybody got any suggestions? I'm out of ideas at the moment. Thanks in advance, -Daniel
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Post by hollandjusty on Oct 31, 2011 11:44:51 GMT -5
Just use a freakin' long extension on your wrench and try rotating it clock & counterclock wise:P That; including smashing on the loosened nut did the trick for me (several times)
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Post by madmatt on Oct 31, 2011 15:01:42 GMT -5
But why are your removing the whole assembly?
The bearings can be fairly easily removed with just the axle removed. Use a decent aluminum or brass punch, say around 1" dia and tap them out.
Works for me.
Matt
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Post by theDaniel on Oct 31, 2011 20:03:27 GMT -5
Just use a freakin' long extension on your wrench and try rotating it clock & counterclock wise:P That; including smashing on the loosened nut did the trick for me (several times) Thank you for the suggestions, I spent the better part of a day using these and every other trick I've learned since I was 12 years old whilst working on engines and machines, tractors, trucks and cars, but so far, nothing will move that bolt. The bearings can be fairly easily removed with just the axle removed. Use a decent aluminum or brass punch, say around 1" dia and tap them out. Well, looks like I've been doing it the hard way for the last 100 years... Are you saying the axel can be removed w/o removing the housing? If that is so, how does one press in the inner bearing? or drive out the outer? Okay, I'll certainly give it a go. Thanks a lot you guys!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 31, 2011 22:14:11 GMT -5
You might want to invest in some cheap coil spring compressors to either
1) remove the spring to allow more access with a punch from the inner side of the knuckle or
2) what I would do is remove the entire arm and soak the whole bolt/bushing end in some kind of oil overnight or several days to weaken the rust scale that has bonded the bolt to the bushing. I hate stuck fasteners. If it doesn't break free after that, at least you have easy access to the bearings at that point anyway. You can also mount one end of the bolt in a vise once the arm and knuckle are removed.
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Post by theDaniel on Nov 1, 2011 8:14:18 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice ferox. Maybe I can pop out that outer bearing with a slide-hammer. But, this project will have to wait a few days, 'cause I have to get my snowplow push-plates re-mounted and do rear wheel bearings on an '93 Caprice Classic first.
BTW I see you're from the North-west, do you get the rust over there in Oregon Like we do over here in the North-east?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 1, 2011 14:37:49 GMT -5
BTW I see you're from the North-west, do you get the rust over there in Oregon Like we do over here in the North-east? Thankfully NO. However, we do have moss, algae, and mildew. Cars last a lot longer here. My '88 is my youngest car. My DD is an '81.
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Post by Captain Nemo on Nov 4, 2011 6:11:06 GMT -5
Go with ferox on the soaking in penetrant/wd40/crc 5.56 for a couple of days, refreshing a couple of times a day. Worked on an old drill press I picked up, and that has a 3" shaft and 6 inch bush.....took a few weeks because of the size, rather than a few days, but it does work.
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Post by streetruler on Nov 7, 2011 11:45:29 GMT -5
also when you soak it in oil, make sure you turn it on end so the oil runs INTO the bolt threads.
also sometimes tapping on it with a hammer will help break it free.
are you using an impact gun or just brute strength?
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