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Post by jradsan on Aug 3, 2009 17:42:27 GMT -5
I am having some trouble with my carb and getting my car to idle at 800 rpm. i have tuned the car to 5 degrees btdc with the sub advance vacuum line disconnected at 800 to 900 rpm. i did this while the car was nice and warmed up. drove the car around for 10 min or so after. then next time, when i start the car it is idling at 1500 to 200 rpm. i dont know why the car is doing this! one thing i saw was that the butterfly on the choke is always open, even when cold. any pointers would be great here! thank you
Jared
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Aug 3, 2009 22:44:56 GMT -5
with the sub advance vacuum line disconnected at 800 to 900 rpm. Not trying to insult your intelligence, but you did plug the vacuum line when you disconnected it from the distributor, correct? Have you pulled the choke cover off and checked it out? Can't remember your Justy situation...have you owned it for a while or is it a recent acquisition? The butterfly being open would have the opposite effect of increasing your idle at cold start up, but are you saying it is fluctuating between ~1500 and ~200? Or did you mean 1500-2000? Have you done the carburetor cleaner vacuum leak test?
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Post by jradsan on Aug 4, 2009 1:28:12 GMT -5
ok to clear a few things up. when i got the car there was a bad knock. turned out to be rod bearing on cylinder #1. i went and replaced the engine only with a used engine from japan. 40k miles. same carb as with the car. because of that i dont really know how the carb worked before i owned the car. and yes i meant to say 2000rpm not 200. also i made sure to plug the sub advance vacuum line. i dont take offense to you trying to rule out the simple things.
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Post by jradsan on Aug 10, 2009 15:48:17 GMT -5
Found out this weekend that the Auto choke is not working on the carb. I found his because i was working on the justy at dusk at my wonderful Girlfriend noticed that there were small arcing sparks coming from that area. My guess is that the coil of wire broke and now doesnt want to work. next weekend i will pull that thing apart and try to get it working again. Anyone ever worked on the auto chokes before? any help or tips would be great
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Danimal
Getting my two Justys back together after a Justy hiatus.
Posts: 589
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Post by Danimal on Aug 22, 2009 11:26:31 GMT -5
My first Justy would not choke. The spring inside was broken. Somehow I bent it to make it work but I don't have that car anymore and would have to open up a choke to maybe recall exactly what I did. It doesn't seem like that is your problem; yours is something electrical? So... have you opened it up yet? What did you find? -Danimal
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Post by jradsan on Aug 23, 2009 2:14:35 GMT -5
I opened up the autochoke spring was worn down so that it would no longer catch on the other piece that it was intended to press against. i put in a different autochoke but i am still having problems. the car is idling better but still rather high. one thing that is interesting and that i can get to happen everytime is that the check engine light will come on when i rev up the car.
If i disconnect the battery to reset the memory i can start the car and have no check engine light. once i rev up the engine to 3-4k rpm. the light will come on and stay on. have not had too much time to work on the car these past weeks but will hopefully have some new info and pictures up soon.
Jared
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Danimal
Getting my two Justys back together after a Justy hiatus.
Posts: 589
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Post by Danimal on Aug 23, 2009 11:00:10 GMT -5
Great work Jared. Hang on to that spare choke, maybe one day you get make it work in pinch like I had done, maybe it's just too worn out. Anyway, now that it idles better(even if faster) and the choke is working, for what reason is the check engine light coming on? Do you know how to read the codes?: Okay, here goes. First you have to locate a few things. First your ECM, which is the main "computer". This is a metal box located under the left dash, you pretty much have to lie on the floor to see it I think. From what I remember it is about 3" by 4"? On this box there is a small led, you may not be able to see it when it is off, but it is pretty easy to see when it is on. This light is called the O2 monitor lamp (not sure why). This leads to the next things to look for, which are a couple of connectors hanging down around in that same area. This connectors are only hooked up for test/code reading purposes, so they should be hanging loose when you find them. One is called the Test Mode connector, and is green, two pins I believe. The second is the Read Memory connector, and is black, only a single pin. Okay, now to get the codes out. There's a couple of ways. First method, if the engine is running and the check engine light is on, if you look at the O2 light on the ECM, it should be blinking out a trouble code. More on how to interpret the flashes later. If the engine is running and the check engine light is off, connect the Read Memory connector. If there is a code in memory on the ECM, the check engine light should come on steady, and the O2 light should flash out a code. If there is no code in memory when you connect the Read Memory connector, then the check engine light should just start flashing, and the O2 light should remain off. I think it should actually work the same for reading the codes out if you just turn the ignition switch to on without actually starting the engine. The above process is referred to as the Read Memory mode in the manual. It also talks about the D-check mode which is basically the same as the above except you connect the Test Mode connector instead of the Read Memory connector. There is two differences though, with the first being that before the trouble code is read out, the vehicle specification code is flashed out. Even if there is no trouble code in memory, then only the vehicle specification code is flashed out. There are four vehicle specification codes, 01, 02, 05, and 06, which are (FWD, 49state and Canada),(FWD,California),(4WD,49state and Canada), and (4WD, California) respectively. One more thing before I explain how to read the blinking, if you want to clear the memory, connect both the Read Memory and Test Mode connectors at the same time. The blinking is converted to a code as follows. There are long flashes (1.2seconds) and short flashes (0.2 seconds). The long flash equals ten and the short flashes indicates one. The long flashes will be first, with one flash for ten, two for twenty, etc. These will be followed by a series of short flashes for the single units. Clear as mud? An example would help, three long flashes followed by four short flashes would equal 34. Make sense now? There will be about a two second delay and the code will be repeated, or if more then one code is present, all codes will be flashed out, then repeated. Hope this helps.-Danimal
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Post by jradsan on Aug 24, 2009 12:01:11 GMT -5
As you can see in that picture the catch for the wire coil is worn down to the point that it no longer makes connection to the choke mechanism. interesting. oh well i have a newer, better working on installed now so that should keep the auto choke working for a while!
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Post by Mato393 on Mar 28, 2022 13:36:34 GMT -5
the end of that spring in my choke is completlly lost I think i can DIY out some fix for that
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