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Post by DrewNukesEm on Apr 12, 2009 12:57:34 GMT -5
alright, i just purchased a '93 justy 5 speed 2wd. It is great and aside from a few dings here and there will be my daily driver soon as i figure the idle problem out.. It will fire right up first thing in the morning, when it has been sitting and will run fine til it warms up.. once it is warm, if i turn the car off, then try to start it again, it has a really hard time starting back up.. and if i do get it started i need to keep gas to it, otherwise it seems the idle gets too low and the engine dies.. i just put a new battery, new plugs, and wires in, and have a cap, rotor, thermostat, serpentine belt, and pcv valve coming in the mail here in a few days.. i will be putting the new parts on, and hopefully this fixes the problem.. however i dont know if it will, and would love to hear any ideas justy owners may have? the only other thing i can think of that may be affecting the problem, is i have noticed the throttle cable has some slack to it.. i was thinking that when it is cold the cable may be tighter.. like a rubber band effect.. then once the temp under the hood has raised due to the car warming up, the cable gets warm and loosens up enough to put too much slack in the line where it isnt holding the idle up..? (and the ecu in the car is telling the engine to higher the idle when cold to warm it up faster like any car but like i said, once warm, doesn't idle...) thank you!
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Post by justyjon on Apr 12, 2009 20:38:01 GMT -5
Why not increase the warm idle speed?
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Post by DrewNukesEm on Apr 13, 2009 13:43:44 GMT -5
thank you fellas, I've never been helped so in depth and fast.. looks like justy owners are good people. i will update when i am done with the rest of the tune up and checking out the warm idle speed and possibly the timing.
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Post by DrewNukesEm on Apr 15, 2009 1:41:13 GMT -5
Alright, so I did the rest of my tune up, all was good, but before I fully warmed it up to check out the warm idle speed, I noticed that whoever worked on this car before me put the wrong (I'm sure too big) alternator with a rigged alternator bracket.. what really pointed it out was the electric blue spark that shot out of that thing when I reved the engine.. so I'm thinking that my problem may have something to do with this.. regardless, I'm defiantly gonna be throwing a new alternator, and hopefully a bracket from a junk yard here by the weekend and will update after that... frustrating, but it'll be all good.
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Post by DrewNukesEm on Apr 15, 2009 14:20:50 GMT -5
frustrating, but it'll be all good. Thanks mechanics for ya. Get a bike if ya hate rust and reaching. stacks Nah, i don't mind reaching or fixing up things that are in need.. it is sometimes frustrating (like when people MacGyver or use wrong parts) but i guess thats one thing that makes its gratifying.. Not to mention my justy should get just as good of gas mileage as a bike once i get it going. haha
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Post by DrewNukesEm on Apr 16, 2009 2:13:02 GMT -5
Not to mention my justy should get just as good of gas mileage as a bike once i get it going. haha Expect up to 50mpg from your FI 2wd if you can drive without brakes! That idle issue sorted out yet? stacks Yeah I think I'm on the right track, got all the tune up parts installed (except the fuel filter that should be here tomorrow in the mail, took longer than expected) and threw another alternator and adjusted the warm idle speed.. got it idling alot better, but not yet perfect. It will still sometimes die when I rev the engine and it comes back down to idle.. so I'm still gonna check/adjust the timing tomorrow along with the fuel filter, but I have a feeling this is where the main problem is, however I think you guys were right on the warm idle speed, and I think both are going to be necessary to get it all good. thanks again for the help! I'll update soon.
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Post by DrewNukesEm on Apr 20, 2009 1:28:48 GMT -5
alright, i think it's figured out.. i put the new fuel filter on, and i messed with the warm idle speed some more and i think i found where it likes to be.. also took it to my best friends dad (who is a mechanic) to check the timing and my timing belt cover is broke on the bottom where the timing marks are so i wasn't able to do that, but i told him about where i got it and how it sat for a while and wasn't driven too much before I picked it up.. he told me that because it sat for so long, and hasn't had the tank filled in a while there could be some water in the tank, and it'd be a good idea to fill the gas tank up with some premium gas, and maybe put a little fuel injection cleaner in. So since I have done all this, it seems to have fixed, or significantly helped the idle and overall running of it. well, so far so good.. anyways, thank you very much again for all your help stacks, i really appreciate everything.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 6, 2009 11:19:23 GMT -5
This is helpful, as I just picked up a '93 FWD 5spd yesterday and it does the exact same thing. I know it has not been well-maintained, so a fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap/rotor, t-stat and all the basics are on the list. Really glad to see this as I will definitely check the warm idle speed once everything else is in check.
When I saw the car, the idle was around 2k (guessing by the sound based on my relationship with other Justys). This was accomplished by moving the two adjuster nuts on the throttle cable and moving the cable jacket away from the throttle, which is akin to simply putting a little pressure on the gas pedal). I returned this to normal so there was a little slack in the cable, and it ran great but did this "dying out" thing when I got off the motorway into my neighborhood - I looked down and all the idiot lights were on. Depress clutch, hit starter and it fired right back up, ran fine and then died in front of my house again when I came to a stop.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2009 19:24:22 GMT -5
I just did the normal tune up items - plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filter. The air filter looked great. Two things were odd about the car - 1 was that the plugs were NGKs but not a model number I have ever heard or recognized, and 2 is that cyl #2's spark plug was loose. As in, not even remotely tight and I am glad there are still threads there!! Car runs better and after messing with the warm idle (which is a little vague) the car runs way better and has not died coming to a stop since! Only thing is there is still a miss/hesitation especially noticable under WOT anywhere from 1500 to 6000rpm. Just a stutter. At this point I suspect the distributor or something with the fuel system. I noticed there are some leaks around the injectors, so I am going to replace the o-rings and send the injectors into Marren while I have them out.
One question - do I need to plug in the green connectors under the dash before setting my timing? When I get the timing anywhere near spec it starts jumping all around and is very rough. I remember my last Justy liked a little advance. Anyway, would like to know about the green connector if anyone knows.
Thanks!!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2009 20:24:32 GMT -5
Well I think I just answered my own question as the suspense was killing me. I went out and connected the green plugs, set the timing, checked it again, went around the block, let it idle for 5min w/ the A/C running, checked it again and it is running much nicer now. I do not have any under-hood stickers on my car for some reason - where should the timing cover mark align with the 4 marks on the crank? Please let me know if I should create my own thread.
Anyway the car runs/idles much better now but still has a slight miss. Going to the A/C shop and then for a smog "pre-test" on Monday so we will see.
EDIT: AAaaaaargh I just got my owners guide and saw that all of this is in there. That's great! DOH!
Can't find my black connectors but I am going to keep looking... I did however find some sort of security thingy that someone wired in where if you pull a chip out, the car won't start. Hmmm.
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Post by DrewNukesEm on Apr 16, 2010 2:01:55 GMT -5
Alrighty, so I finally got my Justy together and running again.. Putting the transmission I got from the scrap yard fixed my problem. So that is the good news! I replaced several parts while I had the engine out as well.. All includes clutch kit, flywheel resurfaced, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, new timing belt cover (my old one was broke at the bottom where the timing mark is) water pump kit, cv axles, all coolant/heater hoses, fixed my alternator bracket back to stock (had ghetto home-made one before), plugs, plug wires, air filter, and bushings for sway bar, then a little cleaning.. It starts right up and runs strong while cold, then when it warms up to normal idle, it fluctuates up and down a little.. Somewhat like the problem I originally posted when I first got the car, but it doesn't die now, just the idle fluctuating up and down.. I have only driven it around the block and back, and still haven't put new good gas in it.. Also I only have water in as coolant right now because I'm going to do a full flush tomorrow.. I also want to check and if necessary reset the timing now the I have the timing mark to go off of.. I haven't played with the warm idle adjust very much yet as well, but I intend to. Other than these things (if they could be causes) is there anything else I should check out that might be causing the problem? Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thank you! Drew
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SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
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Post by SeattleJusty on Apr 16, 2010 9:33:19 GMT -5
I replaced several parts while I had the engine out as well.. All includes clutch kit, flywheel resurfaced, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, new timing belt cover (my old one was broke at the bottom where the timing mark is) water pump kit, cv axles, all coolant/heater hoses, fixed my alternator bracket back to stock (had ghetto home-made one before), plugs, plug wires, air filter, and bushings for sway bar, then a little cleaning.. Drew Drew, you are a shining example of what a great Justy owner can be. I know you will be rewarded with a safe and long living Justy.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2010 20:32:56 GMT -5
...is there anything else I should check out that might be causing the problem? Did you replace the Oxygen Sensor? The old gas should definitely go. If you have lawnmowers and such, you might want to drain the old gas and use it in them before you try troubleshooting too much.
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Post by DrewNukesEm on Apr 17, 2010 3:46:50 GMT -5
I replaced several parts while I had the engine out as well.. All includes clutch kit, flywheel resurfaced, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, new timing belt cover (my old one was broke at the bottom where the timing mark is) water pump kit, cv axles, all coolant/heater hoses, fixed my alternator bracket back to stock (had ghetto home-made one before), plugs, plug wires, air filter, and bushings for sway bar, then a little cleaning.. Drew Drew, you are a shining example of what a great Justy owner can be. I know you will be rewarded with a safe and long living Justy. ...is there anything else I should check out that might be causing the problem? Did you replace the Oxygen Sensor? The old gas should definitely go. If you have lawnmowers and such, you might want to drain the old gas and use it in them before you try troubleshooting too much. SJ, thank you very much for the kind words. I really hope you are right, a safe reliable Justy is exactly what I am going for. Ferox, no I didn't change the o2 sensor.. I thought about it but I figured it should be alright but who knows now.. May be something to look into..? Do you think it could be causing something like this? I flushed the cooling system really well today thinking it could possibly be air in the lines, and also made it to the gas station to fill up... I went over all the vacuum hoses and made sure all clamps were tight. One thing I found was one of the vacuum lines under the airbox that goes from the idle air control valve and plugs onto one of the nipples on the back of the airbox to filtered air was unplugged from the airbox. I thought for sure this along with the new gas and everything else would fix my problem, but no luck yet. I drove it into town and back as well, and it seems to have good power, but I am also taking it pretty easy because of the new clutch. Tomorrow I am going to check/reset the timing, and play with the warm idle more.. I'm not sure where to go after that. Hopefully I can get it all figured out soon!
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Post by DrewNukesEm on Apr 18, 2010 17:26:36 GMT -5
So I re-checked all vacuum lines and blew out all the tubes in case of any plugging.. Also took out the IAC valve and cleaned it up. I adjusted the timing but I wasn't able to move the distributor any more counter clockwise to retard it and could only get the timing to 13 BTDC.. but it then made the car idle even worse so I put it where it was idling good by ear temporary til i can have my friends dad (who's a mechanic) help me with it. Even with it being where I put it "by ear", it is a lot closer to what it supposed to be than it was. I did the timing with the green wires connected also.. I tried to adjust the warm idle speed with both the green and black connected as it says on the emissions tag under the hood, but when I unplugged both of the wires to go back to normal operating mode, the idle was way too high so today I started and warmed it up and re adjusted it without any of the connectors connected.. It made it better, but the fluctuating idle is still there.. Also it will get worse when I run any electrical such as headlights, fog lights and heater. Could it be something to do with the alternator? I also havent checked my pcv valve yet, but I replaced it less than a year ago when I first got the car, but I have heard of sometimes a build up occurring.. Would this give me a funky idle? Maybe I put the new timing belt in a tooth or two off? (I know I had the marking lines on the pulleys lined up correct..) Do any of these sound like they would cause this? Any other ideas? Places to check? Perhaps I need a new idle air control valve? (hopefully not! expensive!). What about the map sensor? I also noticed that I am missing the snorkel thing for the intake that sits in the fender, I wouldn't think this would have any affect as I have seen lots of members in here have removed it, but would that maybe have anything to do with it? Any ideas and input would be appreciated! Thank you. Drew
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Post by DrewNukesEm on Apr 18, 2010 23:14:53 GMT -5
Also, forgot to mention that one of the reasons I went to clean out the idle air control valve is because once the car was all warmed up, I turned it off and plugged both the black and green wires in. When I turned on the ignition to auxiliaries, the iac valve started clicking.. Like almost at the speed of the check engine light blinking. I'm not sure if that is saying it is bad or something else, but that is what made me look into that.. Maybe it's saying that is bad? Anyone ever heard of this? It would make sense that it would be whats messing with my idle, but I'm not sure I haven't ever had to deal with one.. Tomorrow I'm gonna warm the car up and unplug the electric plug from the iac and see if it affects the idle at all.. I guess if it doesn't make any difference that would say it could be bad? And that it hasn't been working? Anyone know how often these go out? Anyone have one laying around? The cheapest one I've found was $130 + shipping..
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Post by DrewNukesEm on Apr 19, 2010 20:20:15 GMT -5
Anyone?
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