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Post by keithminn on Jun 16, 2008 18:55:35 GMT -5
Hi: Does any know if the studs on the fuel tank for a fuel injected justy can be replaced. All the nuts came off with the broken studs when I was removing the fuel pump that's in the tank -- of course the cover is secured by many small nuts - the bolts come out of a steel ring the sits on top of the collar of the tank's access hole. Would be great if the ring unscrewed and new studs could be pressed on without dropping the tank. Is the metal on the justy fasteners of low quality the number of bolts that have broken is the most of any car I've ever worked on and I've had a lot of cars?
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Post by redmavis12 on Jun 17, 2008 7:05:02 GMT -5
Hi: Does any know if the studs on the fuel tank for a fuel injected justy can be replaced. All the nuts came off with the broken studs when I was removing the fuel pump that's in the tank -- Is the metal on the justy fasteners of low quality the number of bolts that have broken is the most of any car I've ever worked on and I've had a lot of cars? In my experience, yes the fasteners are low quality...I've broken many myself. As far as replacing the studs, I'm unsure...the diagrams I've seen show the studs embedded in the tank itself...not sure if they're threaded in. The torque on those nuts is only 2 ft lbs...they shouldn't have been on too tight.
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Post by keithminn on Jun 17, 2008 8:02:34 GMT -5
I was removing the nuts with 1/4 socket wrench and a 8mm six point socket two of the nuts were partially gone so I could not get a wrench on them otherwise all the rest except one would start to turn a fraction and the stud would twist off. Same for the emergency brake retaining nuts and the fuel filter bolts -- and the front exhaust hanger bolts -- I've never had to do much drilling and tapping before now.
Regarding the studs -- I ran my finger under the collar in the tank and it was totally smooth -- the studs seem to be attached to a steel collar on top of the tank -- how is the collar attached -- If I can get the steel collar off -- the collar is made of heavier steel then the tank -- I can replace the studs.
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Post by redmavis12 on Jun 17, 2008 11:22:26 GMT -5
Keith, Check out this diagram: www.autozone.com/addVehicleId,1969501/initialAction,repairGuide/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c15280067022 Looks like the round collar just fits over the studs, which are mounted in the tank...strange that it's smooth beneath the collar though. Most of the time seized nuts, bolts, and screws are the result of rust/corrosion, not over-torquing...at least in my case. Penetrating oil and patience are your friends
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Post by keithminn on Jun 17, 2008 13:11:49 GMT -5
Thanks for the link -- what your looking at is the sealing gasket. That's not in bad shape. But the issue is with the studs on the tank that are pressed into a metal collar that is welded to the tank. Your picture shows the studs below the gasket. The tank repair place cleans out the vapors and then grinds off the studs and drills new ones in. Which means dropping the tank. If the collar breaks of they weld the studs directly to the tank. What a mess. They charge around $65 for new studs installed -- the fumes are explosive.
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Post by redmavis12 on Jun 17, 2008 18:53:20 GMT -5
That's a bummer ...did you determine that the fuel pump was the cause of your no start problem? Hope you get it all sorted out.
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Post by keithminn on Jul 1, 2008 9:07:58 GMT -5
The pump seems have been effected by a workaround of the pump relay that someone put in. The car starts but the compression is low so it runs terribly. So now into the engine (the rings are stuck)and I need to pull the tank -- if only the fuel tank studs would come out without the tank coming out things would be easier.
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