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Post by therav3n on Jan 12, 2015 15:25:35 GMT -5
I know, I'm making a lot of threads, but they all deal with separate issues. Now when I took it out, I had a check engine light, which gave me codes 51, 33 and 14. When I let the clutch out and give it gas, there is a big hesitation, then it just takes off. (looks like I popped the clutch) then as I'm driving down the road it's slowing down, speed up slow down speed up. Jolting back and forth. Really annoying. Check engine light is on, and in its current condition I can not drive it. I am about to give it a huge tune up, (new plugs, plug wires, oil change and dist cap). Another thing is with this, I get a burnt popcorn smell and there is smoke coming from the engine bay. Coming from the exhaust manifold it seems. (all wet down there). What could be my issue?
1988 Subaru Justy DL FWD 5spd.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Jan 12, 2015 17:27:05 GMT -5
smoke = leaky valve cover gasket or head gasket. you can test by wiping the cylinder head clean above the HG and below the VC. wait a few days and look for a trail of dirt or fluid.
the bucking wildly sounds like a gummed up carb. what happens if you put it in third and floor it? will it go?
also take a look at your ignition timing. i know mine is set to like 8 degrees BTDC but it hesitates then rockets forward. it doesnt do this when i advance the timing to like 16btdc, but thats just too much timing. it creates other issues. Ive often surmised that the coil is too weak to light off all of the fuel that is going through the engine. The gap on these pugs (i think) is .035. the larger the gap the stronger the coil (typically).
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Post by therav3n on Jan 12, 2015 18:13:30 GMT -5
Oh yeah, If I floor it, it'll quit jolting, but as soon as I let off, dies. There is about a 4 second gap between me flooring it, and receiving a response. I'm blaming either a stuck throttle cable or a fudged up carb. Ugh a rebuild kit is like 100 bucks. I am still going to replace the ignition system and change the oil, because it's black as sin and has goopies in it. Anything on those codes though?
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Post by certimafied on Jan 12, 2015 20:24:13 GMT -5
I agree with sp0ngebob the smell has to be a leak of some sort that is also why the exhaust is wet looking. I think it may be igntion related too, is it rough at idle as well? I'm wondering if you have a loose spark plug , sounds dumb but i've seen it, maybe a loose plug wire, or a fouled maybe even worn spark plug, it could even be a bad plug wire which I have had come and go not necessarily with load on the engine. Thats my two cent for now good luck. O can you make the engine do this in neutral?
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Post by therav3n on Jan 13, 2015 9:56:43 GMT -5
This engine will not run without my foot on the gas in any gear. Including neutral. I'm going to go out and buy it new oil, 10w-40 according to dustys justys. A new set of spark plugs, no auto parts store had plug wires in my town so I had to overnight them from phoenix, and new valve cover gaskets, I can see oil seeping out when I rev it. ***That's not what's causing the oil leak!*** It's coming from somewhere else. Do any of you know what those codes mean though? I need to get emissions done and can't with the light on.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Jan 13, 2015 11:47:34 GMT -5
was the car sitting for a long period of time? this is indicative of just a gummed up carb. i had this on a car once. impossible to start, didnt drive etc. I let it idle for like 45 minutes then could drive it around slowly, then after like 10 miles i was able to drive it like normal.
If the car sat for a long period of time. do the following.
take some carb cleaner and just shoot it into every opening in the carb you can see with the air pan off and let it sit for 15-20 minutes. then wedge the throttle plates open and repeat. let it sit for 15-20 mins.
then start the car. might be hard but it will eventually start. let it idle for as long as you can wait. its boring.
NOTE: this isnt the same as "seafoam" and i wouldnt use that in this case. seafoam supposedly breaks up carbon deposits. however on an older car some of that carbon can actually be sealing things like worn piston rings or such. you ust want something that will break down the junk and make it "passable" through the carb.
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Post by therav3n on Jan 13, 2015 15:35:17 GMT -5
This thing will only idle I'm guessing (don't have a tach) around 5k rpm. My car park is right behind a row of houses, So I'll push it down the road some and do that. I got about half a can of carb cleaner left. I'll use brake cleaner on the engine with the wet spots to make sure it's not leaking from the valve cover gaskets.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Jan 13, 2015 16:31:06 GMT -5
5 grand? as in if you let the clutch out it smokes the tires?
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Post by therav3n on Jan 13, 2015 16:35:47 GMT -5
HOLY JESUSBALLS THANK YOU!
At least for NOW it is running fine again, Still some jolting (like I'm going over a bad part of road) but otherwise good, still won't idle. But running! Took it out and got fast enough to need 5th gear. Wouldn't go that fast before. And yes 5k like it would smoke the tires if I let it out. I really want a tach. Tonight I am going to buy parts to do the tune up and also tune the engine. It feels like it's missing a lot at idle. Probably a bad spark plug wire. Also what's weird is as soon as I let the clutch out and moved out of the parking space, the check engine light turned off. Hmm. Any reason it would do that? Thank you so much though for the carb idea. I didn't know subarus had so much stuff attached to the air cleaner, Jesus. The PCV tubes ( I hope, the tubes going from the valve cover to the carburetor) are cracked and missing clamps. That could be it right? Thanks though !
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Post by therav3n on Jan 13, 2015 17:41:41 GMT -5
I retract my statement, Still than you but that did not fix it. I was happy because it would idle, but as soon as I drive it around, (After I let it idle for like 20 min) People were thinking I didn't know how to drive stick, because until the revs got up, This thing would stall. ( I pretty much had to dump the clutch or else it wasn't going anywhere) Still thank you so much, I thought the engine was going lol. Going to replace the fuel filter, if I can find it hah
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Post by sp0ngebob on Jan 14, 2015 10:25:36 GMT -5
check your ignition timing and check for vacuum leaks and then check that your choke is working properly. floor it with the car off and then check the carb. you should see to the butterfly's like 2-3inches down.
the miss at idle and the CEL are likely related. and the fact that it turned off might mean that its a loose wire somewhere.
check your throttle cable and make sure that when its on the throttle body its seated in whats called the "throttle rotor" that little 1/3 moon shaped thing that guides the cable. mine got stuck once outside the guide and it revved really high.
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Post by therav3n on Jan 14, 2015 21:45:52 GMT -5
I replaced the o2 sensor and the check engine light shut off, but it still won't run without redlining to stay running. I'm going to have a mechanic replace the cap and rotor and then tune the engine. Hopefully that's it. Otherwise I'm replacing the carburetor. I'm also replacing the fuel filter.
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Post by certimafied on Jan 14, 2015 22:04:09 GMT -5
The fuel filter is in front of the left rear wheel on my justy there is a plate covering it. We need to determine why this is happening, is it lacking in fuel or spark. You can try misting a little starting fluid into the intake while the engine is running rough, if it clears up for a moment or as long as you mist the starting fluid into the intake then you most likely have some sort of fuel issue. You could also have a weak spark condition where the starting fluid clears it up because it is easier to ignite than gasoline. Testing ignition requires some spark plug wire pliers so you don't get shocked and smack your head on the hood from the excitement. The shock is never as bad as the smack from the hood. With the engine running rough pull a spark plug wire at the spark plug, if the engine dies or gets worse that cylinder, wire and plug, were doing something. if engine stays the same or barely makes a change at all that is your problem cylinder. When you pull the wires if you can see if you hear the spark too. I would suggest looking at the plugs first with the way your car sounds the plugs may be old and may have 'bridged the gap' with deposits over time. If nothing else the spark plugs may give you a clue in whats up. Good luck.
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Post by therav3n on Jan 14, 2015 22:25:55 GMT -5
Spark plugs were a little black, I changed them this morning. The guy is only charging me $30 to check it out, so what the hell. I changed the plugs, plug wires and changed the oil. It was BLLLACCK. I approve of the davidsfarm method of pulling the plug wires, but I thought it was better to pull them from the coil? Anyway the spark plugs are brand new, Platinum and premium wires. Not costly at all. Tomorrow is fuel filter and possibly pump. They're really cheap! Under $75 for both! Once the guy tunes the engine and makes sure there's no vacuum leaks, I'll know it's the carb. I am also changing the cap n rotor.
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Post by certimafied on Jan 14, 2015 23:31:51 GMT -5
It sounds like your going to cover just about everything. Let us know what your guy finds and how things are running afterwards.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Jan 15, 2015 0:28:09 GMT -5
check the IGNITION TIMING. i bet its really late
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Post by therav3n on Jan 15, 2015 0:56:08 GMT -5
I'll let you guys know after the guy tunes it. I'll tell him about the ignition timing. I do bet it's late. Tomorrow I'm going to let it idle for as long as I can possibly sit there. Or until the engine overheats like last time. It lasted like 30 minutes then I looked up from my phone and saw the needle just barely at the end of the white. I turned it off and didn't smell coolant, So i think the engine is still good. Hopefully this will fix it! Thank you all for your support.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Jan 15, 2015 11:50:06 GMT -5
i forgot about the fuel filter. that thing takes like 15 minutes to replace and costs like 9 bucks. i had a bum one once and it did a lot of what you are talking about.
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Post by therav3n on Jan 15, 2015 22:04:57 GMT -5
First thing in the morning I'll do the fuel filter, mechanic is coming around 11 tomorrow. Cap n rotor changed nothing. Still running like absolute garbage. I'll gunk the carb again and idle for 45 minutes. Then try to go for a drive. I tried to drive it, and I let the clutch out slowly and tried to go like normal, stall. I revved and let the clutch out a little faster and got a chirp, but will die when coming to a stop. I'm 2 seconds away from pulling the carb and buying a rebuild kit.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Jan 16, 2015 12:35:45 GMT -5
i dunno man. did you check all the mount plates to see if they are snug?
also maybe try the old carb cleaner trick to see if theres a big vac leak after the carb somewhere.
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