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Post by therav3n on Jan 16, 2015 12:47:01 GMT -5
Mech said the carb is probably junk. Gave me a bottle of injector cleaner, and told me to buy a can of seafoam and put the whole thing in the gas. Idled for about an hour, no change. I don't hear any hissing noises.. I'm at a loss for this car. I don't want to just give up and sell it. I did that already. (Dodge van). I do need to know where the oil pressure port is on this engine. When I look at the guide on this forum, it's not where he is pointing. I have the gauge mounted already and it looks awesome. Just need to know where the valve is. Thanks for all your help guys. Also there's what sounds like a pump making noise in the carb? Weird. Sounds like a fuel pump. I'll try to grab an audio recording for you or a video.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Jan 16, 2015 16:58:09 GMT -5
like a tiny dog growling but slightly slower when you turn the key to the last stop before "start" ?? thats the fuel pump. it will run with the car running but my car is so loud ive never noticed the fuel pump while the motor was running.
maybe give the carb cleaner trick a run. sometimes the leak isnt one single leak large enough to hear hissing. just spray it rather liberally on the vacuum hoses and see what happens. you can also use electrical parts cleaner if you are worried about eating plastic parts away.
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Post by therav3n on Jan 16, 2015 19:15:31 GMT -5
I'm about to just dig deep and take the stupid thing to a full service mechanic. Let them do whatever. I'll budget what the car is worth. ($750). If they can't fix it, oh well. I tried to own a justy, just got one that had been pre tenderized. I'm a little frustrated because I was trying to pull the oil sensor to put the gauge in but couldn't get the thing out, and the wrench slipped and yanked the sensor wire and destroyed it. Lovely. I'll report back when I take it to a full service shop, there's one down the road that only works on subarus.
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Post by therav3n on Jan 29, 2015 2:04:39 GMT -5
Okay, update time. I've decided to put 90% of my teenage income to this thing to restore it or whatever. I ordered a new clutch because I found out it was slipping real bad. I put it into 4th and floored it and it didn't go anywhere, just revved up. If I apply gas really slow, it'll creep along until you hear it slip and the shift light comes on. I need to know how to get the dash apart to replace the lights that went out. The mechanic said there were a bajillion vacuum leaks and the carb was shit. No use rebuilding, just buy another one. I NEED A LINK TO A WEBER CARB!! The scrap yard sells a hitachi one for $95 but if a weber is a little more is it worth it? He also said compression was low on #1 cylinder. No blow-by and the mech said if there is no blow by it is most likely the head. I will be pulling the head when I do the clutch and carb. (One day job). I will be installing a new head gasket, new pistons and a machined head. Not to mention new valves. I am ordering a pair of recaro comfort seats and pulling all the carpet (Trashed) and spraying in truck bed liner. Ever since the wrench slipped and destroyed the wire going from the oil pressure sending unit I've had no oil light, that's a little scary, will be working on that later. I'd like to put a lift kit on it and slap some offroad tires and convert it to 4WD. If that's possible. Money isn't an issue unless it goes over 3k. The only thing that's gonna cost me is getting the head remachined and put back together with new valves. At least there's only 3 pistons to worry about. I am a big dude, 6'4" 330lbs and this little car has no issue hauling my fat ass around when the clutch is not slipping. OH! I need some ignition help. Somebody broke into my car (passenger door doesn't lock) and stole the broken stereo, waterlogged speakers (I got a laugh in, damn tweakers). The only thing I cared about is that it looks like they slidehammered my ignition, there's nothing there anymore. I can just stick a screwdriver in and start it. I was planning to pull the ignition and just put a push button start with a killswitch. Seems a lot cheaper, a new ignition is more then the carb for this car. A pic of the ignition is included. Some advice peoples? imgur.com/SuUEJk6
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Post by sp0ngebob on Jan 29, 2015 15:34:19 GMT -5
you can get in there and cut off the old reminants of that collar. it will take soem work. but i didnt his when my parents car got broken into and when i bought a really old car with a super busted ignition.
as for the cylinder head work, remember that new valves need a valve seat cut. you might want to consider new guides if you are going to bother cutting seats. Dont get up sold on some "5 angle" valve job. each angle is another angle they incrementally cut the seat at. picture the edge of the valve as either 3 angles each steeper than the last.
a webber carb isnt any better or worse than the stock hitachi. Theres almost no way to tell how bad a carb is unless you take it off the car and disassemble it. Theres a local shop to me that will rebuild a hitachi 2bbl carb for 150 if you have it off the car. new floats, needle, seat, gasket etc.
If you are doing new pistons, consider rod bearings at the same time. you will obviously have the motor out and the rods out. mains too if you have another 75 to spend.
People will also bring up balance shaft guides and chain but im not 100% convinced of even the need for these. again, big debatable point on a 3cyl.
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