|
Post by blacklight on Jul 19, 2012 14:59:05 GMT -5
Hi all. Since I can't get my Subaru Sambar (Coulumbuss/Domingo/Libero) to work properly, I've now brought a Subaru Justy EF12 with about 16000 km Some problems: When I've driven it for a while, the oil pressure lights comes on dimmely. I've checked the oil level and it seems fine. Is the oilpump on it's last turn? After putting a little load on the engine, it makes a short jump and then the "Check Engine" light comes on. This is said to be caused by the lambda-probe (exhaust oxygen sensor). What else may it be? The engine doesn't reach operating temperature, no matter what I do to it. I can hear a relay click back and forth, and thinking it might be a defective fan switch. Right? A pretty loud ratteling comes from the rear-right wheel, and I've concluded that it's a CV-joint that needs replacing. Q: is any of the front CV's inter-replacable with the rear ones? (Seems hard to find rear ones here in sweden...) Think that's all for now. //Magnus.
|
|
|
Post by nipper on Jul 19, 2012 22:16:10 GMT -5
Gte a oil presure gauge on the car to see what it is doing. I wouldnt drive it untill you know for sure the oil pressure issue.
I have the same short cycle fan issue also.
|
|
|
Post by blacklight on Jul 20, 2012 14:37:35 GMT -5
Yes. Will try to borrow one on monday.
About the cooling problem: Can it be a defective switch + a defective thermostat? Cause I figure it should still reach operating temp despite of the cooling fan living it's own life...
//Magnus.
|
|
|
Post by nipper on Jul 22, 2012 1:30:03 GMT -5
Mine short cycles and the gauge never gets very high. I pulled out the T-stat and it functions perfectly. I have a new switch i just need to install it. The oil temp (i have a gauge) does reach operating temp, so it is warming up. Just need to fix this by winter.
|
|
|
Post by blacklight on Jul 24, 2012 14:06:47 GMT -5
Is it possible to read error codes on this vehicle? Thinking it might help when I get the "Check engine" light shut down.
//Magnus.
|
|
|
Post by blacklight on Jul 28, 2012 2:29:05 GMT -5
Nevermind, I found a guide.
Just to clear things up: Which wire should be connected when for which result? And where is that indicator LED that's supposed to give me the codes? Do I have to take the cover off the ECU for that?
//Magnus.
|
|
|
Post by blacklight on Aug 3, 2012 15:43:00 GMT -5
Think I got error code 14 out of it, which points to a defective duty solenoid, right?
//Magnus.
|
|
|
Post by blacklight on Aug 8, 2012 10:28:28 GMT -5
Ok. So today I decided to rip off the air cleaner (it covers so much of the vital parts), and found that a wire that goes to a switch or something that got something to to with the automatic choke unit. I also found that the hose going to the EGR-valve was loose (!). No wonder it got bad exhaust-readings... :/ Gonna charge the battery until tomorrow, cause it proved depleted today. This also gives me a "clear" ECU, I belive (error codes deleted). Ideas/comments? Oh, and btw. I have a rattle sound from the rear-right compartment when I pass 60 km/h (and above). It disappears when I enter 4WD, but returns as it disengages. Interesting thing is that it is affected if the car is bouncing on a bad road or a speedbump. Is it the wheel-side CV-joint, or is it a bushing in the rear suspension? :/ Sincerely, Magnus.
|
|
|
Post by nipper on Aug 8, 2012 17:31:32 GMT -5
Rear boise, get the car on jack stands and start inspecting driveshaft, bearings and mounts.
|
|
|
Post by blacklight on Aug 9, 2012 14:59:36 GMT -5
About the engine issues... Tried to clear the error codes by the "cable way". Didn't clear anything + the battery didn't have enough power after all the restarts. Also, after having the battery indoors for charging during the night, I wanted to see what happens if I start the engine without any of the connectors ("read" and "diagnose") connected anywhere. The "Check Engine" light blinked for as long as I had the ignition on. Shouldn't it just stop beeing lit when the engine starts, or is something messed up? //Magnus. nipper: Will see what I can do this weekend.
|
|
|
Post by blacklight on Aug 16, 2012 11:54:15 GMT -5
Changed the O2-sensor yesterday, and cleared the codes. Same problem. Guessing the duty solenoid is defective?
//Magnus.
|
|
Danimal
Getting my two Justys back together after a Justy hiatus.
Posts: 589
|
Post by Danimal on Aug 21, 2012 9:25:42 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by blacklight on Aug 21, 2012 11:29:01 GMT -5
Thanks for that link, Danimal. Now I know what to look for/on. About the ratteling drive shaft/CV-joint... Got the car up on a home-built ramp today and after a few minutes of wiggleing on bushins and the drive shaft itself, I found that the inner-right joint didn't even have a straight pin securing it to the differential! :S I think it was off by ½ turn (if I'm not mistaken, the straight pin should only be possible to install when having the joint installed in only 1 way). However, since I couldn't get the joint off from the differential axle, I had to improvise. Thus, I installed a cotter pin in equal dimension and secured it by bending one of it's legs. Not good, but better than a loose joint, right? Oh, and about the oil pressure problem... I changed oil and oil filter today, and the oil pressure lamp got off MUCH faster than before, indicating that the filter was VERY old and full of sludge. Q: Does the oil pressure relief valve bypass the oil past the oil pressure switch channel directly into the rest of the oil channels? Thinking about making a oil pump mod to get some oil force-fed into the oil pump shaft. This is to prevent it from wearing down the crankcase cover as much. The mod would consist of a small cut-out with a Dremel (or equivalent) in one of the "valleys" of the pump inner rotor, and a bit in on the shaft itself. When the pump enters the dispatch-stage of the cycle, it would also force a small amount of oil to lube the oil pump shaft itself, thus preventing wear. Q: Is this a good idea, or shoud I start looking for ways to get some bearing-metal into the shaft bore? //Magnus.
|
|
|
Post by nipper on Aug 22, 2012 22:04:18 GMT -5
Install an oil pressure gauge, something that has a good low end scale thats generous. This will be your freind as the OP switch is set at something pathetic (2 or 3 psi). Lets find out exactly how healthy the oil system is in your car.
Change oil much more frequently then the 7500 miles called for. I do it every 3000 miles. I read someplace that dino oil is better then synthetic for these engines (I may be wrong on that one, but with 3000 mile changes im going dino).
I added oil capacity to mine with a external oil filter and cooler. The capacity IMHO is just too little for the work that this little engine is asked to perform.
Change your PCV valve.
If the oil filter was that bad, I bet you are running mud in your gearbox.
|
|
|
Post by Captain Nemo on Aug 23, 2012 22:55:20 GMT -5
You found a '87 - '94 Justy with only 16000 on the clock? Are you sure the 100000 limit odometer hasn't gone around at least once?
|
|
|
Post by blacklight on Sept 1, 2012 11:31:00 GMT -5
Here's a video of the car. New problem presented (valve clicking. See vid.) www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9iWZuteGHMI've found a kind of computer like gague-central that I'm thinking of installing, just to get a closer look on how the engine actuall condition. It has the following measurments/scales/units: Oil pressure: 0-7 bar / 0-100 psi. Watertemp: 40-120 °C / 100-250 °F. Voltage: 8-18 V. RPM: 0-8000 RPM. Pic: biltema.se/ProductImages/32/large/32-260_l.jpgQ: will this make you happy, nipper, or should I just get an ordinary needle-gauge? //Magnus.
|
|
|
Post by nipper on Sept 6, 2012 18:51:58 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by blacklight on Sept 14, 2012 11:46:38 GMT -5
Thanks, nipper. Have found a gauge now, but haven't brought it yet, 'cause I need to know what thread size the oil pressure switch on the engine block is. Also, a bit more urgent problem: The car is VERY hard to start when cold. I've found that the chocke pre-heating coil is damaged beyond repair. Should I even bother to fix this, or just get a choke cable and get it manual instead? Also, the car kind of tugs badly just above idle, say 5-15% gas. I belive it may be the duty solenoid (I've read these are a decease on these cars?) ALSO, there is an atmospheric pressure equalization valve located on the firewall, in the passenger side of the engine bay. It has a hose connecting to the float chamber cover. What controls this valve? Is it a pressure sensor or is it the ECU itself? //Magnus.
|
|
|
Post by nipper on Sept 16, 2012 20:27:12 GMT -5
I dont know about there, but choke coils are still available in the USA. If all else fails a manual choke works.
Tug=bogging down like it is flodding at low rpm? IS there any colored exhaust smoke when it does this?
Maybe time for a carb rebuild?
I can't answer the last one without some pics, as i am not sure what euro spec cars have without pics.
|
|
|
Post by blacklight on Sept 17, 2012 5:20:17 GMT -5
I've ordered a "new" (read used) carburetor now, since this one had a broken accelerating pump rubber gromet (the thing on the bottom end of the piston) and a broken duty solenoid, which I can't get loose from the float chamber because of the connector (lacking time, not knowledge... ) Gonna see what I can do with the manual choke, if I decide to keep this carb and just change the defective parts. No, the car kind of hesitates as if it weren't getting enough gas. This is probably due to the defective acceleration pump and duty solenoid. I'm pointing on the valve in the video I posted earlier. //Magnus.
|
|