|
Post by patagualian on Nov 24, 2010 19:48:25 GMT -5
Hi All. First posting....hope you can help. Been reading the various comments regarding "Timing" My bottom pulley has 3 sets of markings: one has 4 'nicks', the other two just one.They are equidistant, (or 120 degrees apart) Putting the middle of the 4 nick group on the mark on the plastic cover above, has No.1 piston @ TDC, its' valves well closed: Ignition to Cyl.1 then? (pistons 2&3 well down their bores) Are we all agreed that ALL engines time on No.1? (Not No.3 as I read here somewhere....?) Removing the bottom pulley reveals the extra mark which aligns with the mark above the sump casing...that is.....180 degs (or 6 o'clock) as I saw here in one answer........(Ref "Chilton") Seems to me this engine has too many indicators as regards correct positioning. EG: Prior to removing the drive chain to the counterbalance & oil pump, I checked the markings on the c/balance sprocket & the c/shaft sprocket: the two marks were oppostite each other, they never coincided on some reference point in between......if the c/shaft point was at 12 o'clock, the balance sprocket mark was at 6. & visa versa. (Obviously: They are equally sized ;))
Now, I have rebuilt many engines over the years, V8's included, but this little devil is a real poser........I'm lovin' it (as some say) but I dread getting the rebuild wrong: Don't want to do it twice!
So please: Some definitive pointers as regards the timing. & the position of the balance shaft WRT the crank. (Although I am relatively certain of putting it back as it came "apart".....balance wasn't a problem before the strip down.)
The reason for the rebuild? Severe knock on No.1 BigEnd: Lack of maintenence. ("Service?What service?") The pick up filter was all but blocked with carbonised debris: Oil starvation. :'(
I would also appreciate the torque settings: B/ends,Mains,Cyl Head, Flywheel......the usual.....
Many thanks to you all: Impressive little engine I must say! :)
|
|
|
Post by RedRooJusty on Nov 24, 2010 20:43:30 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by patagualian on Dec 5, 2010 9:52:52 GMT -5
Many thanks RedRooJusty.....Just what I needed. Can proceed now, well, when the block etc come back from the rework. (The link to access the Library: No result there, but no worries, I have all that I require.) Thanks Again. Steve, El Patagualian. Saludos!
|
|
|
Post by patagualian on Dec 5, 2010 10:22:39 GMT -5
Hi me again: Quick Query: This engine is the 1.0L...6 valves, whereas the 1.2 has 3 valves per cylinder (I gather) so would that be 2 exhaust & 1 Inlet or visa versa? ...need to clarify with regard to the ring spacings, shows a piston with three indentations for the valves.: 1.2 piston. I'm thinking 2 small exhaust & 1 large Inlet?. The thrust side being the exhaust side then, in both cases? Thanks again.....
|
|
|
Post by Armageddous on Dec 5, 2010 14:46:45 GMT -5
The two small indentations are for the intake valves and the one large one is for the exhaust. If you're looking at the engine dead on, ie at the front of the motor, the intake is on the left and the exhaust is on the right. Terry
|
|
|
Post by patagualian on Dec 9, 2010 19:32:54 GMT -5
Er, Right Terry....Thanks for that. But surely the "Thrust side" of the piston has to be the side nearest the exhaust? Eg. When the cylinder fires, it's forcing the piston down the bore and, looking from the Timing Belt end (Front of enginge, not car) The rotation is clockwise & thrust is therefore on the exhaust side of the piston? How critical is this ring spacing anyway, on this particular engine? I've always merely ensured no two gaps were in line..... never been a problem. BTW: Had a devil of a job getting the right gasket kit. Of three different makes not one had the right selection. I had to have the gasket made for Water & Oil pump front casing. Not one had the same-as-removed exhaust manifold gasket:All were simple flat affairs, whereas the one which came off, had heat shields for the spark plugs. It was the same for the inlet manifold; Not one fitted correctly, all had square holes as opposed to the round needed. Yet all three kits were labelled up clearly: Sunbaru EF10........No year variations.No mention of Carb or Injection..... And all made in Japan......(allegedly?) Is it just here in Chile we get these problems......or is the same elsewhere? Thanks again Terry....(Did the beer kits work.....RU using the famous "Beer Machine" I'm tempted!!!)
|
|
|
Post by Armageddous on Dec 9, 2010 21:07:35 GMT -5
Yes, sorry, the thrust side is the exhaust side. Home made beer is awesome! The kit I have is Mr. Beer. Practice makes perfect, temperature control and cleanliness are very important.
Terry
|
|
|
Post by patagualian on Dec 10, 2010 7:45:46 GMT -5
Cheers Terry. I investigated that "Beer Machine" some time back....but by the time we'd paid for shipping & possible import duties it worked out too expensive..... But what wouldn't I give for a decent pint! However a new artesanal Micro-brewery has just set up.......bit pricey but it's got to be better than all the rubbish lagers they sell here. "Lager Beer" is a misnomer to a Brit like me! So, as I say...."Cheers" or "Salud"
|
|
|
Post by patagualian on Dec 10, 2010 18:34:40 GMT -5
Hi Guys....Me again. This timing lark..... Bottom cam drive gear & Cam Shaft as per previous reply from RedRooJusty. (Thanks again) This gives No.3 at TDC as stated......OK so far......However, the rotor is pointing to No.1..... Not to No.3(Obviously with 3 @ TDC.... 1&2 are well down the bores) I note it is impossible to engage the distributor to the cam shaft incorrectly.......ditto for the Rotor and the Dizzy cap...... Any idea what's gone wrong here?
|
|
|
Post by RedRooJusty on Dec 10, 2010 22:43:36 GMT -5
**patagualian** don't sweat the rotor position, the distributor can only engage the camshaft in one position with it's offset keyway. If your distributor is bound to the cam rotation and fully installed, then you are good. The important thing is to line up the crank pulley and the cam pulley marks (as illustrated by **danimal**) when installing the timing belt. Just go over your timing belt alignment marks, then rotate the crank clockwise two full rotations and verify that the timing belt marks still line up (I pull the spark plugs to make hand turning the engine easier -just a suggestion). -keep up the good work, let us know how you succeed -RRJ
|
|
|
Post by patagualian on Dec 12, 2010 13:00:59 GMT -5
Hi RRJ: Many thanks for that.....I am still musing though how the devil it's pointing to No.1. BUT! you have reassured me & I will proceed. To digress: The"man in the Spares Shop" assured me the 1.2 waterpump kit fits the 1.0 too. Large Round Spheres.(Herinafter: LRS) The impeller for the 1.2 is 3mm 'deeper' it will foul the casing & or the outer cover plate....& no amount of adding/removing shims will alter that fact. Still: The seal fitted ok. Mega thank you to the guy who posted the picture of the seal base still in situ!!! (Coal?from 2007?) I was convinced the seal was wrong also up until I saw that......about midnight of course.(The oil for that lamp....costing me a fortune!) You know, many moons ago, I worked in a spares shop: I was fairly good, not perfect, but "pretty good"... But the guys here (Chile) are just $%^&£....as long as they get money in the till: They will sell you anything. And when you live out in the sticks: it's not funny making that round trip....again & again.... Yes, I will let you know & post a few photos too...hopefully. Thanks again. Steve.
|
|
|
Post by RedRooJusty on Dec 12, 2010 23:09:13 GMT -5
Hi RRJ: Many thanks for that.....I am still musing though how the devil it's pointing to No.1. I believe this is correct for the 1.0lt 2-valve/cyl cam shaft. If you know what cycle your valves and pistons are on you should be able to see if your rotor position is correct. You would have the valve cover off to gap the valves anyway. -RRJ
|
|
|
Post by patagualian on Dec 14, 2010 11:55:57 GMT -5
Hi RRJ>>>>Yep Spot-On Amigo. It started 1st attempt....ran for 5 seconds & stopped. Mmmmm I had replaced one of the multitude of hoses in the wrong place: Fuel supplied to fuel return! Doh! Swapped them, let things evaporate off , & it restarted & ran OK. Exhaust gasket below cat, blowing but otherwise all seems good. Some tweaks & the neighbour should be well-happy. Gotta dash now but will post a few fotos later. Thanks again you guys.
|
|