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Post by badshah on Nov 20, 2009 23:44:56 GMT -5
Good Day everyone. I was unsure of where to post this, there is no place for 'Unsure projects!' ;D Over time I have collected a lots of parts for my Justy 87 with EF10 motor. These include. New brake parts, calipers, cylinders and rotors New front cross member on which the radiator is mounted New right bracket for the tension rod. Many other misc things I have already put in / fixed Dashboard from Gen II Steering from Gen II Seats were upholstered. Engine Brake booster changed and brakes are working fine All pedal bushes changed making all pedals feel like new New wheels and tires Now I wanted this car to be finished, it does not even look finished. Major body work is required. 1- Change bonnet (get from scrap yard) 2- Change boot lid, Got hit from behind while carrying an extended load and twisted a bit. (repair or get from scrap) 3- Change right rear door (new is available) 4- Change quarter panel (new are available) 5- Fix floor 6- Change from wheel apron (bought) 7- Fenders (new) 8- Front bumper (bought) 9- Rear bumper, although I more or less fixed it but for perfect alignment would need new (new available) 10- Miscellaneous parts like parking lights, trim etc (can be arranged) 11- Paint 12-Then the interior work which luckily is quite reasonable where I live. After all this I still need to replace/ refurbish front rear components, which I wanted to get powder coated by the way 1- Ball joints (bought) 2- Inner/ outer tie rods (available new) 3- Front Lower control arms (would change if bent, available new) 5- knuckle (used) 6- Hub (used) 7- Axle assy (new) 8- All new shocks (new) 9- Steering rack So considering that I can put in about 10 hours / week what do you guys think my options are? How should I approach this? Many others would have been through these conflicting thoughts of junking or rebuilding, input please! Thanks
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Post by badshah on Nov 22, 2009 8:41:21 GMT -5
The car has been with me for more then 7 years. The extent of repair required was estimated by a few visits to workshops, the known history and my experience. The wheel apron was cracked round the lower portion of the whole from which the tie-rod end sticks out. The type of repairs performed are evident from the way the iron sheet was welded for the bumper mounting bolts. Not visible in this low res shot Bent and fender welded incorrectly Large gap in hatch outside, the inside seal does not touch the hatch inside. Tail lights not aligned, probably hit from the side, bumper drooping on right side, the whole thing looks 'funny' wheel arch incorrectly built and rusting. The area near the mounting points for the rear shocks was rusted too. The body line is difficult to rebuild properly quite a few dings and the fender is welded (incorrectly) to the assembly belowe the light. Some damage to the bumper is also visible, it will be discarded. Door bent The inner frame has separated from the shell. It flew open while driving getting damaged. The front lip is also out of shape. Some of the damage is shown in this pictures, much more would be visible when and if I tear it down.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 22, 2009 12:38:19 GMT -5
I think you have got an excellent candidate for custom body work. I would go toward a more off-road look myself. I think the Justy looks better with custom bumpers. You could weld up some small tubular bumpers (I would do this myself if I hadn't found some nice aluminum ones). I will be posting a write up on that later. I am sure some people will decry adding weight to the vehicle, but would gladly add a little weight for some real bumpers. My point is, with all that body work needed to make it look stock, it kind of free's you up to use your imagination and not be afraid to cut and bend. Here's mine currently. The red lines indicate where I cut the sheet metal skirt and filled the holes with a sheet metal patch and epoxy. The green dots indicate where I have added mounting brackets for the new bumpers. That is as far as I got before other things took over my time, but I will hopefully be able to resume and do a write-up in the near future. Of course, the muffler is missing from the picture, but I think it's cool seeing the running gear under there.
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Post by imaginarius on Nov 22, 2009 17:47:00 GMT -5
I kinda like those wheels, there...very unique.
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Post by eporter123 on Nov 23, 2009 3:32:55 GMT -5
Badshah, you have a good project there! Looks like a lot of work to get back to stock. I like the idea of making it your own car by not worrying about getting it to stock. Might take too much of your time trying to restore it.
Ferox, you've been busy! A pic like that requires that you must start a new build-up thread!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2009 23:09:35 GMT -5
Ferox, you've been busy! A pic like that requires that you must start a new build-up thread! I have definitely been busy, but for the past few months it hasn't been on the Justy unfortunately. That's as far as I got this summer. Hopefully soon I will be producing a few write ups. Of course, with Badshah's abilities and attention to detail I know he doesn't need a write up. Sometimes a little suggestion gets the imagination going though. I know once I decided to customize, my Justy project got a lot more interesting to me. BTW Badshah, if you don't mind me asking, are you a medical or dental student or is that just a sticker from the previous owner?
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Post by badshah on Nov 24, 2009 2:16:12 GMT -5
BTW Badshah, if you don't mind me asking, are you a medical or dental student or is that just a sticker from the previous owner? Nope I am an electronics guy, that sticker is my younger brother's. He is a doctor ,he put it there when he was studying and it does not want to come off now. Thanks for the input. I don't have any experience of bodywork so I plan to spend some time with some bodyworks guy to built up my vocabulary and get some rudimentary experience. I would like it to be off the road for the minimum time. So an initial plan is to, dismantle the front fully and complete any work related to the engine bay. This way I should be able to continue working on it in piecemeal while keeping it drivable. This would also clear the most difficult part. My estimate is 4-5 months for the front. Customizing should be nice to experiment with. Not sure about the off road look though maybe something to look it 'tougher' The ibiza looks cool.
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Post by xtremzj on Dec 12, 2009 22:31:13 GMT -5
id junk it....
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Post by badshah on Dec 13, 2009 2:21:50 GMT -5
yeah sometimes I think that too, but seeing all the stuff lying around I would like to experience more with it Secondly I made a commitment to myself to complete it before getting any car for a project. The reason I posted this online is to remind myself to go and work on it.
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Post by madmatt on Dec 14, 2009 18:49:14 GMT -5
Oh the Seat Ibiza... drool. Yes I think if you squint right the Just totally looks like one. At least I often tell myself that. Of course I think if you look at it right it looks like a Talbot Lotus!
And re-build away, there's plenty of life left in that shell.
Matt
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Post by badshah on Dec 16, 2009 1:58:27 GMT -5
Did some dismantling of the front. Bumper, lights fenders. Would be posting pictures as I go along. Whenever I see posts about body projects there is a mandatory mention of MIG or TIG. Where I live they usually perform oxy-acetylene welding. So I decided on getting a MIG machine thinking that it is easier to work with and better then gas. While I was reading up on MIG welding, I came across some articles which basically state the opposite that gas welding for car panels is the way to go. www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=5159metalshapers.org/101/jkelly/index.htmlNow I am super confused. Mig machines are costlier here and the one I plan on getting would be from scrapyard 250A single phase machine, with new torch, heated regulator (or something to de-ice the CO2), cylinder etc. Gas welding should be much cheaper and everyone would have the know how, but I prefer keeping a cylinder of CO2 then keeping two cylinders of explosive gases at my home. What do you guys say?
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Post by badshah on Dec 16, 2009 2:05:24 GMT -5
Oh the Seat Ibiza... drool. Yes I think if you squint right the Just totally looks like one. At least I often tell myself that. Of course I think if you look at it right it looks like a Talbot Lotus! Matt I liked the two tone colour scheme of the Ibiza and may try to do something similar. Yep I think so too but would keeps my fingers crossed. Although, after looking at all the rust in Suzuki Metros at teamswift.net it looks better and more importantly doable
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Post by badshah on Dec 20, 2009 13:34:32 GMT -5
Some more progress, got the engine out. Seems like the right side is bent as I suspected. when compared to the left side. (I flipped the pictures and added lines to aid in comparison) Would be glad if someone could post similar pics for comparison. As I mentioned I planned to change this side anyway, but I am thinking that I should make sure that the side sills (both sides) are strong enough. Otherwise I would not have a proper place to support the car when the front cross members are taken off.
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Post by Quidam on Dec 20, 2009 16:51:18 GMT -5
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Post by badshah on Dec 21, 2009 0:19:19 GMT -5
That was great man, thanks. Now I know there is a small curve on the lower side but the top is straight
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Post by Quidam on Dec 21, 2009 2:13:19 GMT -5
Hey,
On the welding. I've used MIG on car body and it splatters like crazy. Have to protect the glass even.
I've never used TIG due so far to the cost, and I don't have one.
I've used gas and it works fine. Brass/bronze small rod, low pressure, small tip.
Watch the warpage tho, and cover brass/copper with fiberglass mat/filler first time over. Bondo doesn't stick to it well enough.
Doug
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Post by badshah on Dec 24, 2009 14:01:23 GMT -5
Will it be a problem if I leave the brake lines open when removing the brake system? I am concerned about rusting
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Post by Quidam on Dec 24, 2009 16:27:31 GMT -5
Will it be a problem if I leave the brake lines open when removing the brake system? I am concerned about rusting Hey, It could be a problem. Cap them off, preferrably with fluid in them. I use the rubber caps like come factory over the bleeder screws. You can make your own with a plug (golf tee)? and rubber line. Doug
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Post by badshah on Mar 10, 2010 0:55:44 GMT -5
Finally bought a Mig. It tested out fine at the scrapyard, hope it works smoothly where it is needed Attachments:
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Post by badshah on May 27, 2010 2:45:17 GMT -5
Finally had some time and money Instead of tackling the right side right away I decided to work on the left front first. There is considerable rust there, but as I would not be changing parts there it would turn out to be good practise for the other side. started from removed the top fpart of the frame as I wanted to 1) repair the lower portion of the frame 2) learn how to remove spot welds, plug welding and then 3) clear all the mud and debris behind. it looks like this now I am thinking of cleaning up the surface rust with wire wheel and 80 grit sandpaper, then applying rust converter on top. I am unsure about how to proceed from there. Should I leave the converter till ready to etch prime, or should I remove it after 24hours and then put on a primer. hmmmm
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