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Post by blacklight on Jun 11, 2012 9:56:19 GMT -5
Gonna go out now and set the timing (took some time to get the timing light.) Also, I've brought a small air-filter which I'm going to fit onto a big air nipple on the floatchamber cover, since this nipple supplys air for the main air-bleed to the emulsion tube -> venturi. May be a clogged or collapsed filter at the end of the hose which is normaly fitted onto that nipple, so it might be worth trying. //Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Jun 17, 2012 15:49:59 GMT -5
Changed that filter -> nothing. :/ Aw well. Can write that off anyway. Have checked what a new set of gaskets and oil seals costs, and I should get it at next pay, then I just need to get an other engine from my fathers home to mine, and find a place to store it. Or do anyone have more ideas?
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Post by blacklight on Jul 2, 2012 13:25:18 GMT -5
Seriously. Ideas, anyone? :/
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dogoman
A Boxer engine will fit in a Justy, its called a WRX
Posts: 445
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Post by dogoman on Jul 3, 2012 1:08:57 GMT -5
i'm at a loss, without it in front of me to check, i'm not sure where else to look.
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Post by blacklight on Jul 9, 2012 11:02:43 GMT -5
Well, only thing that I can get for you guys is an accurate compression-test, since nothing else I do seem to work. Therefore; back to basic diagnostics... :/
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Post by blacklight on Oct 21, 2012 9:04:35 GMT -5
News! I got a "Subaru E10 1987 Service Manual SUPPLEMENT"-book off a guy on the internet, and after going through the electrical section, I found that the car DOES have a FPCU (Fuel Pump Control Unit.) (No wonders I didn't find it in the mainmanual; it didn't exist yet. I located it on the car and I've examined it for a while but, I'm not sure how to diagnose it properly... :/ It has spare-part number 429547102 on it and it has a 6 pin connector socket, thereof 4 pins exist. Now, how do I diagnose this thingy? Also, seems like I owe stacks and ferox an appology. //Magnus.
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Post by Armageddous on Oct 21, 2012 11:02:54 GMT -5
I have never even heard of a FPCU on a Justy. Where is it located? Can you take a picture or do you have a wiring diagram?
Terry
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Post by blacklight on Oct 22, 2012 13:17:08 GMT -5
Armageddous: This is the van, E10. On Justy's, I belive it's located on the bracket holding the good release cable. On my can, it were located on the front wall (what you would call the "firewall", on a Justy. It's a little blue box with 4 pins in a 6 pin connector. I've opened it and it has no relay inside.
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Post by Armageddous on Oct 22, 2012 20:28:50 GMT -5
Ah so it's carbureted. I remember that module/thingy when I tore out all my carb related electronics to switch over to EFI. Do you want me to check and see if I still have it? Forgive me for not knowing the vehicle, I responded without reading the whole thread. Terry
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Post by Armageddous on Oct 23, 2012 0:07:25 GMT -5
I just read the whole thread - wow, you have been through hell and back. It looks like a posted a few times before, probably without reading the thread as well. It really sounds like you've approached this from every angle and have come up with basically nothing, going back to what you said in the beginning about your float - is it still dropping? A low float indicates a fuel supply problem, why not jump battery voltage to the fuel pump and see if it changes anything? You need to determine what system is affected, you can't keep going from mechanical, to fuel, to ignition and back again. I work as a mechanic and I have seen guys chase their tale for days only for it to be a fuse or a loose battery connection, or something just as simple. If jumping power to the pump doesn't change anything then rule out the FPCU. Next take the fuel filter right out for testing purposes as some of them are designed for push-thru not pull-thru, are easily mixed up and have no markings. Terry
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Post by blacklight on Nov 10, 2012 8:07:33 GMT -5
Unfortunetly, I don't have access to my homemade float level gauge. (A float bowl bolt with a hole drilled in it and a straw in the hole... ) I've switched the FPCU to an other one from my spare-parts car (wreck...) but it didn't solve anything. Can't really access the engine bay right now, since I have a restoreable engine laying on top of the engine bay trap door. (Remember, it's a E10 van, not the Justy... ) I've changed the fuelfilter and installed it correctly. :/ I will check with a friend if I can get a place in a garage and restore the engine I have loose. //Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Dec 17, 2012 18:08:25 GMT -5
Got in touch with another gentleman here in Sweden who owns 4 ½ of these cuties. The ½-one is the chassis with a Fiat 126 body on it.
Anyway. He has experienced the same problem as I do, and he tracked it to be the intake ducts before the air cleaner. Appearently, there is a kind of "resonating chamber" mounted paralell to the fuel tank, that is supposed to make some kind of harmonisation in the intake air pressure (don't ask, cause I don't know.) Since the pre-heater thingy were rusted away since years back when I brought the car, I didn't mind just leaving the hose in a U-turn connected from a rubber boot to the tube on the air cleaner.
Gonna try to fabricate a new pre-heater and mount it after new years eve, since I'm not where the car is now.
Q: Anyone think this will solve anything? Q2: Could the same effect of the "chamber" be acheived by re-installing a really really really really dirty air-filter? Yes, this would of course choke the engine a bit, but I won't have the choke valve in the way of the main system in the carb any more.
Hrm...
//Magnus.
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Post by Armageddous on Dec 17, 2012 21:45:56 GMT -5
That really sounds like a long shot. Is he insinuating the intake is being restricted by the hot-air valve on the breather? If that's the case, just rig the valve so it's always open, unless your car has issues when it's cold.
It seems really unlikely but I guess it could happen.
Terry
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Post by blacklight on Jan 19, 2013 11:03:58 GMT -5
Further development on the theory in previous post...
I don't believe the chamber is for pressure harmonization, but the long way for the intake air would create a low-pressure through the entire intake duct system, from the intake hole in the body, to the air horn of the carb. There's an air delivery nipple on the float chamber cover that feeds air to the main air bleed and the float chamber, and when the pressure is lower in the main intake air system, it would mean the engine finds it easier to suck air from this nipple, thus making the fuel mixture correct. Kind of hard to explain.
//Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Feb 5, 2013 8:44:17 GMT -5
It's alive! Hint: Engine is VERY hard to start if you change your spark plug wires and get 2 cylinders wrong... There is a SUBSTANTIAL difference in driveability after I shut off the connections to the non-existing (rusted away...) pre-heating chamber. Pic with some explaining: Took the little can of joy-o-driving for a spin downtown. People got melon-sized eyes... ^^ Just need to exercise the brakes for a while to ensure safety, since it's been sitting for almost 3 months. Gonna move from my apartment to my fathers house and then re-do the solution I made with the hoses and all that. A friend of mine is rebuilding the pre-heating chamber, so I'm gonna re-fit it when spring comes. I'm gonna change the black hose, of course, and probably the orange one too, if it proves to be leaking. May do a video later. //Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Apr 20, 2017 15:21:33 GMT -5
Decided to re-open this thread again, and hope that someone is in a mood to re-read it all... I have successfully installed a Pertronix Ignitor I unit in my distributor, to get better spark and make the car start when it's damp outdoors. Although the engine started after sitting for over a year, it seems that the Ignitor unit cannot trigger the FPCU (Fuel Pump Control Unit)) to start the fuel pump, so I had to bypass it. Any ideas on how to make this function again? Also, about my hesitant engine problem: I've re-read the whole thread and what I keep getting back to is the fact that the ignition timing, valve timing and crank timing doesn't always seem to line up. The crank-to-cam timing could reasonably possibly only be either a damaged keyway on the crank, or a stretched timing belt. I'm more on the latter, as the belt were already at least 10+ years old when I installed it back in 2008 I think. To get answers; I've ordered a new cam belt kit (among other things) and hope to get it some day next week.
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