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Post by blacklight on Mar 18, 2010 9:14:22 GMT -5
Now I've made a small movie about this. You can see it here: www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFf3sVV2B_kNote that a transcript is available via the description box. I've switched back to some sparkplug wires without built-in resistance in the cap, and also corrected the way the primary wires to the ignition coil is installed. (Didn't matter, but I thought it was worth trying.) And no, RRJ, I haven't re-installed the old ignition coil yet, but I will. //Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Mar 22, 2010 17:41:30 GMT -5
Got a brand new fuelpump today. *Happy!* Haven't got time to install it yet, though... //Magnus.
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Danimal
Getting my two Justys back together after a Justy hiatus.
Posts: 589
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Post by Danimal on Mar 23, 2010 19:08:18 GMT -5
Ok. Now, I've put it all back together. I warmed up the engine and tried reving it. Same problem... The timing was correct, then? Good luck with the new fuel pump! Danimal
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Post by blacklight on Mar 24, 2010 16:18:35 GMT -5
Ok. Now, I've put it all back together. I warmed up the engine and tried reving it. Same problem... The timing was correct, then? Good luck with the new fuel pump! Danimal Out of all the tests I can preform, and by my own judgment, yes. The timing is correct, which brings me back to step 1. Kind of, at least. Gonna install the new fuelpump as soon as I get well. (Annual stomach decease have struck, so... :/ )
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Danimal
Getting my two Justys back together after a Justy hiatus.
Posts: 589
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Post by Danimal on Mar 30, 2010 11:18:56 GMT -5
Sorry about stomach bug and good luck with the fuel pump swap. Let us know about the original ignition coil as well.
Danimal
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Post by blacklight on Apr 3, 2010 12:33:07 GMT -5
After about a day of making hose-adapters for the pump, and another day for installing the damn thing (sorry about my language, but this is really pissing me off...), the fuelpump is in place. Problem remains! GRRRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrr....................... -.-
THOUGH!!!.... I connected a strobelight to check the ignition timing, and found that the ignition advance curve plummets (!) back to basic setting (5 deg. BTDC) and stays there no matter how far I pull the throttle valve. In other words; the ignition timing advancement fails when the engine reaches the point where it starts to splutter... :/
Ideas?
//Magnus.
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Danimal
Getting my two Justys back together after a Justy hiatus.
Posts: 589
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Post by Danimal on Apr 3, 2010 17:59:43 GMT -5
I see just what you mean: Purrs along quite nicely but starts to sputter right around 1200: ...and dies: Put the original ignition coil in and really back up to step 1. I will have to reread all of this whilst listening to your engine run in the background and have a bloody good hard think. All the best, Danimal
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Post by Justy4x4 on Apr 3, 2010 22:28:47 GMT -5
Have you checked the lower timing belt sprocket for a sheared key way? When these shear, the cam and ignition timing get screwed up even though the timing belt marks still appear to line up.
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Post by blacklight on Apr 5, 2010 13:40:12 GMT -5
Danimal:
TY for really putting your mind into this. I really appritiate it.
Justy4x4:
No, I haven't. But I'll keep it in mind if I tear down the cambelt cover again.
All:
I disassembled the distributor yesterdayand found that the huge ball bearing that holds the igniter, was VERY hard to turn. Cleaned it with lighter fluid and moved on deeper into the distributor. Found that the bearings in the govenor advance thingys (the weithts) were almost gone. Changed 'em to some better one's, and greased up exposed portions, and at last, assembled the distributor. I reinstalled it on the engine today, but the engine won't start... :S Further investigation points that the fuelpump might be faulty or misinstalled...-.- Gonna install the old pump after work practice tomorrow, and see what we'll get.
//Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Apr 6, 2010 15:53:36 GMT -5
Update: I put back the old pump today, and it worked just like before. Engine refuses to start. Borrowed my fathers remote starter and removed the spark plugs. Nice spark on all three. Thought "What in the name of h--l...? Removed the distributor again. Disassembled it, and found no errors. Test-installed it to one of my cylinderheads I have as spares. Put cylinder 1 at compression TDC to simulate an ignition event. THIS is where I found my mistake! The rotor axle is POSSIBLE to install 180 degrees in the wrong way, thereby causing the ignition event to occur at exhaust TDC. (Yes, I feel embaressed by this... XD Still learning though. ) In my defense, this is oddly enough not mentioned in the workshop service manual assembly procedure for the distributor. Put the rotor arm in the correct way, and gonna install the distributor tomorrow. Can't wait! //Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Apr 18, 2010 8:03:11 GMT -5
Update:
I put back the distributor, and the engine starts on the second compression stroke. The engine seems to be a lot more responsive when I give more gas, but the problem seems the same. Have reinstalled my homemade tool for checking floatlevels, and found that it was in order. :/
A friend mentioned that it might be a faulty valve. Can this be so?
Should I take a wild guess and change the intake manifold gasket?
Anyone got a new idea?
//Magnus.
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Danimal
Getting my two Justys back together after a Justy hiatus.
Posts: 589
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Post by Danimal on Apr 24, 2010 17:01:01 GMT -5
Happy Birthday Magnus! I'm sorry to say I am at as much of a loss as you are. Can you rev the engine by hand and then check for the leak(s) in the gasket?, might save you making a wild grouse guess and taking the intake manifold off unnecessarily.
Danimal
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Post by blacklight on Apr 29, 2010 13:31:41 GMT -5
Danimal: Thanks. Post is on the day after, though. And yes, I ate cake until my stomach was round. ^^ OnT: Not sure what you mean by "rev the engine by hand". Was wondering; I never re-tightened the cylinder head bolts after running the engine for a few kilometers back when I assembled the engine. Can this have this negative effect? Nor do I know if my father put some oil on the valve stems when he assembled the cylinder head about 18 years ago... :/ About the vacuum: Made a new video (haven't written a transcript yet) about the new readings after the distributor was cleaned. Link: www.youtube.com/watch?v=gezqZIR5gCIThe needle flickers fast between - 50 - 60 kPa (-375 - 425 mm Hg, -15 - 18 in Hg) at idle. According to the workshop manual, this reading is to low. (Normal values: -62,7 - 69,3 kPa (-470 - 520 mmHg, -18,50 - 20,47 inHg)). //Magnus.
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Danimal
Getting my two Justys back together after a Justy hiatus.
Posts: 589
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Post by Danimal on Apr 30, 2010 19:21:34 GMT -5
Danimal: ... Post is on the day after Not by my time stamp! Not sure what you mean by "rev the engine by hand". The way you increased engine speed in the previous video, pull the throttle by hand whilst you listen/feel/spray carb. cleaner(or something) to look for the leak before taking that wild guess and removing a possibly finely sealed intake manifold. Do you think that it starts to leak at about 1200 when it 'just doesn't seem to do it'? Also, have you a tachometer? From the sound of the engine I would guess that you are well above 1200rpm, no? Have you tried driving the 'toaster'? Looks like you did have it out on the snowy roads, or were those old pictures? She really is cute, I would love for you to get her rolling! Danimal
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Post by blacklight on May 1, 2010 3:37:22 GMT -5
Hmm... Aw well. Thanks anyway. Yes, as the vacuum behaves strangely by that point. But like I previously stated, I'm not sure about the exact RPM at which the engine starts to splutter. Yes, but it proved defective, since I can set it to any cylinder count from 2-8 without affecting the reading which is around 82 RPM on idle, when it's supposed to be around 750-850RPM. //Magnus.
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Danimal
Getting my two Justys back together after a Justy hiatus.
Posts: 589
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Post by Danimal on May 21, 2010 8:33:30 GMT -5
(tachometer) proved defective, since I can set it to any cylinder count from 2-8 without affecting the reading which is around 82 RPM on idle, when it's supposed to be around 750-850RPM. It can't idle as low as 82 revolutions every minute, can it?! Must be 820 and it sounds great. I expect that you would blow some gasket or develop a vacuum leak if you rev'd the engine up to 12,000 thinking that you were at about 1200. Did you rev. the engine up while testing it and it developed this problem? Perhaps it is still fine if only you keep the revs down. Listening to it and comparing the sound to my own engine, it sounds as though you are getting to at least 4000, no? Have you tried to drive it? Still toaster pondering, Danimal
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Post by blacklight on May 23, 2010 5:23:10 GMT -5
Danimal: No, of course not. It would sound like an old tug boat... XD
No. This problem developed as a short interval in the throttle stroke (between no and full pressure on the gas pedal) and last summer (I think) it became like it is today.
Somewhere around 3500 to 4500 seems likely.
Oh, yes. I drive it to workpractice every day. If I run it on full choke, I can squeeze out a little more performance, than without choke. This is applicable no matter what enginetemperature.
Guessing that the choke makes up for the low vacuum at lower speeds, but the choke also hampers any further acceleration since it's 1. blocking the airhorn so that the engine doesn't get enough air, and 2. it blocks the airway going around the main nozzle.
Now to my question: what is causing the low vacuum, since this seems to be the cause of the problem? :/
Sincerely, Magnus.
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Danimal
Getting my two Justys back together after a Justy hiatus.
Posts: 589
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Post by Danimal on May 23, 2010 12:24:58 GMT -5
That brings us back to the fuel delivery system/carb. somewhere, right? Time for a carburettor swap or rebuild?... After being sure there is no manifold or gasket leak. Tried that soaked-rag thing today. ... not good enough. So it is the intake manifold gasket..? This ought to work better. I drove all the way home(20+ miles) with a clogged fuel filter in 3 to 5 mile spurts, stopping to refuel my rag. Really soak that thing so there is plenty of vapour around the intake but do not let the rag get pulled in and suffocate the engine. It worked a little better, but not good enough. Did you test it whilst driving yet, or just monkeying around? Maybe 'better' got the revs high enough above 4000? How fast can the engine turn over before 'taching out'? Jag icke gör det mena av förolämpningen din intelligens med sådan enkelt/tydlig svarte spörsmålen all tiden... bara den er besvärlig till diagnos/bli någon hjälp från ≈4000 milen. (Wow, online translator looks pretty good, no? It has been years since I learned just enough Norwegian to ask for directions, buy train tickets, and rent a camping plot. All the hospitality summer jobs were staffed by Swedes and the languages do look/sound quite similar to an Englishman.) Good luck, Danimal
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Post by blacklight on May 24, 2010 15:39:58 GMT -5
Just to satisfy my curiosity; what causes low vaccum? Manifold- and carburetor gasket seem OK. Ignition timing is correct. EGR-system spotless.
Idea's?
Thinking that it might be sticky valves, or something else inside the combustion chamber that I'm not able to check. (I REALLY don't wanna disassemble the engine... :/ )
Thanks in advance, Magnus.
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Post by Armageddous on May 24, 2010 20:46:28 GMT -5
Low manifold vacuum can be mysterious. You have probably checked the regular missing vacuum lines, and like you said, carb base gasket. Also you need to check that the vacuum lines that are hooked up are going somewhere that doesn't leak. Hook up your gauge, get the engine to a point of stability and note you vacuum. Take needle nosed pliers and start pinching random lines. Pay close attention to the PVC valve and brake booster lines as they are huge leaks. Incorrect valve timing or tight adjustment can cause poor vacuum, a bad intake gasket that causes the engine to suck coolant or a plugged catylitic converter. Usually if you have one cylinder or 1 valve that is the problem you will see the variation on your vacuum gauge.
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