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Post by DrewNukesEm on Aug 10, 2009 14:29:06 GMT -5
If you've any doubts about how long it will hold up then drill out that old bolt, tap new threads and put the correct bracket on as soon as possible. Kudos to Stacks for helping you out like that; just don't let it get so bad that you have to send him your crankshaft: subarujusty.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=engine&thread=2657&page=1How about a little more information about the fog lights, Drew, are they always on with your low-angled headlights, or how did you wire them? -Danimal At this point, I'm happier with it than it used to be.. Looking back I can't believe it didn't break sooner! However yes it is definitely on the list to try and drill that hole out here soon.. Only problem is there isn't too much space in there to get a drill in so I may end up having to pick up a smaller drill that I can fit in with. The fog lights were just some cheap ones I picked up for less than $20. They came with a switch, vague instructions, and all the wires necessary to wire up (supposedly.. I had to extend all the grounds..). So they have their own switch that I can turn them on whenever I feel I need them. The way they are mounted are actually upside down but I felt that it was the best place to put them. It was all pretty simple, except the bumper was a little more of a chore to get off and on than I expected. Overall I'm happy with the look and they do make a difference when on. The only draw back is because they are the cheap ones, they are fixed in place and cannot be adjusted without taking the bumper off again, so it is important to make sure they are aimed where you want them before the bumper goes back on. Between the mud flaps I pulled off a 4wd GL, painting the wheels black, and putting the fog lights on, I feel I've achieved a "rally inspired" look, while still keeping it as stock as possible.
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Post by DrewNukesEm on Aug 10, 2009 14:31:41 GMT -5
don't let it get so bad that you have to send him your crankshaft I doubt he could afford the shipping. Seriously, UPS' cheapest rate was nearly 20$US to ship a tiny box, under 1lbs, from Ottawa to Oregon. Prices are reasonable if you're shipping drugs but unaffordable with old engine parts. stacks No joke huh!? Oh well, even though I wasn't able to use the alternator bracket yet, at least I got the spark wire clip bracket!
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Danimal
Getting my two Justys back together after a Justy hiatus.
Posts: 589
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Post by Danimal on Aug 12, 2009 2:09:10 GMT -5
No A/C, huh? Can you check if one of the holes in the firewall is anywhere close to in-line with the broken bolt on the block? There are some grommets behind the glovebox where some A/C system pipes would come through if equipped and they are easily removed and reinstalled. Just a hopeful thought. Maybe I'll go check if it is lined up with any of them. Which one is broken? -Danimal
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Post by DrewNukesEm on Aug 13, 2009 1:42:23 GMT -5
No A/C, huh? Can you check if one of the holes in the firewall is anywhere close to in-line with the broken bolt on the block? There are some grommets behind the glovebox where some A/C system pipes would come through if equipped and they are easily removed and reinstalled. Just a hopeful thought. Maybe I'll go check if it is lined up with any of them. Which one is broken? -Danimal Nope, no A/C.. I know exactly what holes you are talking about in the firewall, I ran the wires for my fog lights through them.. However I'm not too sure I could use them to reach the hole I need to drill out. With the drill I have it is quite cramped in that little area.. I'm thinking I will most likely have to resort in getting a close quarter drill.. Or I may possibly see if I can do anything with my dremel first.. The bolt that is snapped off is the one that holds the alternator bracket to the block. Thank you for the suggestion.. I'll keep updated and post what happens when I decide to tackle it..
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2009 10:56:33 GMT -5
No A/C, huh? Can you check if one of the holes in the firewall is anywhere close to in-line with the broken bolt on the block? There are some grommets behind the glovebox where some A/C system pipes would come through if equipped and they are easily removed and reinstalled. Just a hopeful thought. Maybe I'll go check if it is lined up with any of them. Which one is broken? -Danimal Nope, no A/C.. I know exactly what holes you are talking about in the firewall, I ran the wires for my fog lights through them.. However I'm not too sure I could use them to reach the hole I need to drill out. With the drill I have it is quite cramped in that little area.. I'm thinking I will most likely have to resort in getting a close quarter drill.. Or I may possibly see if I can do anything with my dremel first.. The bolt that is snapped off is the one that holds the alternator bracket to the block. Thank you for the suggestion.. I'll keep updated and post what happens when I decide to tackle it.. I rented an angle drill from a tool shop here in my area years ago to replace some manifold studs on my Maxima, 300ZX and Celica. I had to cut down a drill bit as well for clearance issues, but with the shortened bit and the angle drill, I was able to get into some really tight places and successfully drilled/tapped/helicoiled the stud holes on the Celica with the engine in place ('80 coupe, 20R, clearance between the rear studs and the brake booster was TIGHT). I think there are also angled chuck adapters you can mount to a standard drill, but not sure if that would help you.
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Post by DrewNukesEm on Aug 13, 2009 20:55:47 GMT -5
Nope, no A/C.. I know exactly what holes you are talking about in the firewall, I ran the wires for my fog lights through them.. However I'm not too sure I could use them to reach the hole I need to drill out. With the drill I have it is quite cramped in that little area.. I'm thinking I will most likely have to resort in getting a close quarter drill.. Or I may possibly see if I can do anything with my dremel first.. The bolt that is snapped off is the one that holds the alternator bracket to the block. Thank you for the suggestion.. I'll keep updated and post what happens when I decide to tackle it.. I rented an angle drill from a tool shop here in my area years ago to replace some manifold studs on my Maxima, 300ZX and Celica. I had to cut down a drill bit as well for clearance issues, but with the shortened bit and the angle drill, I was able to get into some really tight places and successfully drilled/tapped/helicoiled the stud holes on the Celica with the engine in place ('80 coupe, 20R, clearance between the rear studs and the brake booster was TIGHT). I think there are also angled chuck adapters you can mount to a standard drill, but not sure if that would help you. That's a good idea, thank you I appreciate it! I was thinking it may be a good excuse for me to buy one, but now I may decide to just see if I can rent one like you said.. I have also seen the angled chuck adapters, but I don't know if i could do as good of a job with those.. They don't seem too precise. If all else fails, I bought some diamond bits for my dremel that I'm sure will eat through anything, and I know I can fit it in the tight space.. Thank you for the suggestion wombat, I think finding one to rent will be what I'm going to try first.
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Post by badshah on Aug 13, 2009 22:03:00 GMT -5
one ghetto idea that usually works, especially if the bolt did not break too deep inside. Build up the broken bolt with electric welding and then weld on a bar or better a nut to it, then try removing it. When it is loose the bar can be broken off by twisting a bit. You would have to be careful with all the rubber and fuel lines nearby.
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