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Post by northwestgirl on Aug 11, 2015 11:52:04 GMT -5
I need to know where to find the igniter assembly for my 89 Subaru Justy 4WD... At least I think that's what it's called... It is a piece that goes onto the coil... But I bought 2 coils and neither came with it.
Also, how exactly do I tell if I have a GL, DL, or RS(or RL, can't remember which), Dusty's Justys is down so I can't check on there and the other posts I read don't really say anything specific... Or do I even need to know the model to buy the igniter???
I need to get her up and running asap, she has been sitting for almost two years and was running fine, then just stopped getting spark. Replaced/Checked everything that could be wrong, ended up with the igniter.
Thank you for any and all feedback.
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Post by bizarro on Aug 11, 2015 12:00:56 GMT -5
Welcome Pick up a Chiltons; they do help to a certain extent. If the wheels are 13's and its an FI, then it's a GL. 12's and a carb, the DL. Got pics?
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Post by northwestgirl on Aug 11, 2015 16:01:53 GMT -5
Must be a DL, It is carb.
I have a Chiltons, I will post pics tomorrow. Still, I can not find and igniter anywhere! And I don't have room to buy another Justy for parts. Anyone know any website that have them? Or scrap yards that have had them in the past that will ship? I live in Tacoma, WA and you never see these things in the junk yard!
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Post by bizarro on Aug 11, 2015 17:33:48 GMT -5
Same here in Eugene, and when they do, they are all second-gens. Craigslist does help sometimes, plus we do have a classified section here.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Aug 12, 2015 10:28:42 GMT -5
no DL was 4wd.
GL can be either 2wd por 4wd
GL can be carbed
RS = 4wd and passanger side mirror.
i have an 89 GL 4wd thats carbed. no mirror, no clock (that might have been an owner removing that) no AC and no rear spoiler
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Post by bizarro on Aug 12, 2015 10:54:48 GMT -5
I'm not about to get into an argument with you, dude.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Aug 12, 2015 12:16:29 GMT -5
ok....good luck with it. this has been covered LOTS of times.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Aug 12, 2015 12:17:55 GMT -5
actually farcle it. lets hear what you have to say. its gonna be wrong but thats ok.
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Post by indkid87 on Aug 12, 2015 12:44:26 GMT -5
He just said he doesn't want to argue. Why do you need to antagonize?
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Post by northwestgirl on Aug 12, 2015 13:12:10 GMT -5
Ok, did some double checking and it is a GL, 1989 4WD Carb No Passenger Mirror.
Does anyone know if a igniter for a DL of the same year will work in my GL???
Still planning to post pics, been working long shifts.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Aug 12, 2015 14:42:48 GMT -5
the 1.2L carbed motor should have all the same ignition system assuming you match the same dist type. vac advance vs not etc.
so id presume that an ignition from any carbed motor with the same type of distributor would work for your car.
you might also get lucky with a GL wagon ignition or something from bone yard for cheap.
theres a dude on cragslist in port orchard wa that has 20 justys. his name is ed trueblood and he has a thread here and ive personally bought parts form him before. he would likely have one for you on the cheap.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Aug 12, 2015 14:43:46 GMT -5
He just said he doesn't want to argue. Why do you need to antagonize? because some jackass statement about how you dont want to argue is itself, "Antagonizing" besides he is wrong. my statement is 100% right. so anything he tries to correct is going to be wrong by definition alone.
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Post by gearheadeh on Aug 12, 2015 21:35:23 GMT -5
He just said he doesn't want to argue. Why do you need to antagonize? because some jackass statement about how you dont want to argue is itself, "Antagonizing" besides he is wrong. my statement is 100% right. so anything he tries to correct is going to be wrong by definition alone. SPONGEBOB, The OP came to this forum with a legitimate request for help. Earlier in this thread you provided some clarity in a reasonable way. WHY is it so important that you show your info to be correct? We all come here to help each other with our common love of these little cars. Whether or not information is 100 percent-- totally correct is no where near as important as it is for people to be able to speak what they believe to be the truth. Without fear of being bothered with trivial argumentative comments meant to inflame, antagonize and generally cause a disturbance in an otherwise very harmonious environment. You have been getting closer and closer to doing what you have done here, which is VERY clearly an example of what is defined here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internet_trolland pictured here in what is famously called the "Seattle Troll" We enjoy having people here who want to HELP others, please continue to be help full without being a "TROLL" YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED--- further actions like this will result in loss of privileges.
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Post by earthbounding on Aug 13, 2015 6:55:49 GMT -5
If your not sure if its a gl or dl, use the vin # from the dash or part # to get the right one (both numbers are usually stamped on most parts). check the subaru dealer parts catalogs to see if you have the right one and match the part number. parts.kirbysubaruofventura.com/Subaru_1989__1980-1989.html A previous owner may have used an after market part or an oem part from a different model year so check to see if the vin on the part matches the one on the dash...
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Post by sp0ngebob on Aug 13, 2015 10:13:05 GMT -5
because some jackass statement about how you dont want to argue is itself, "Antagonizing" besides he is wrong. my statement is 100% right. so anything he tries to correct is going to be wrong by definition alone. SPONGEBOB, The OP came to this forum with a legitimate request for help. Earlier in this thread you provided some clarity in a reasonable way. WHY is it so important that you show your info to be correct? We all come here to help each other with our common love of these little cars. Whether or not information is 100 percent-- totally correct is no where near as important as it is for people to be able to speak what they believe to be the truth. Without fear of being bothered with trivial argumentative comments meant to inflame, antagonize and generally cause a disturbance in an otherwise very harmonious environment. You have been getting closer and closer to doing what you have done here, which is VERY clearly an example of what is defined here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internet_trolland pictured here in what is famously called the "Seattle Troll" We enjoy having people here who want to HELP others, please continue to be help full without being a "TROLL" YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED--- further actions like this will result in loss of privileges. hey gearhead. too long didnt read. f u c k you.
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Post by gearheadeh on Aug 13, 2015 10:49:29 GMT -5
SPONGEBOB, The OP came to this forum with a legitimate request for help. Earlier in this thread you provided some clarity in a reasonable way. WHY is it so important that you show your info to be correct? We all come here to help each other with our common love of these little cars. Whether or not information is 100 percent-- totally correct is no where near as important as it is for people to be able to speak what they believe to be the truth. Without fear of being bothered with trivial argumentative comments meant to inflame, antagonize and generally cause a disturbance in an otherwise very harmonious environment. You have been getting closer and closer to doing what you have done here, which is VERY clearly an example of what is defined here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internet_trolland pictured here in what is famously called the "Seattle Troll" We enjoy having people here who want to HELP others, please continue to be help full without being a "TROLL" YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED--- further actions like this will result in loss of privileges. hey gearhead. too long didnt read. f u c k you. Exactly what I expected from a person of your character..... account disabled
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Post by madmatt on Aug 14, 2015 2:46:29 GMT -5
First off, Sorry about this Northwest girl... Ah man Gearheadeh... Why'd you have to go and do that? I go away, miss some fun, and now what am I left to do? But it's like Hydra's head... he'll be back Funny, as it was only a year or so ago he came here looking for help with simple things; is there some trick to getting the axles back into the wheel hubs without taking the entire assembly off the car? some sort of specialty tool or some trick that im unaware of? ive never had a car that had the wheel bearings pressed into the hub and had the axles pressed into the inner portion of the bearings. Ive always had cars that had the hub pressed in and had splines inside the hub. And yet, only a short time later, he was the residence expert; on the street you can get custom wound springs from any of the major manufacturers. tell them top ID and OD, bottm ID/OD and then free and compressed length and what rate you want. im not a fan of cutting springs. that lowers the spring rate. spring rate is how much load a spring can hold before it compresses a known amount. ex 500lb/in. it takes 500lbs to compress the spring 1 inch. 11kg/mm. 11 kilograms to compress it 1mm. removing or deactivating coils decreases the spring rate overall. Cutting springs increases rate. It's more complicated then this, but basically all coils compress equally under load so take a 500lb/inch rated spring, with 5 coils, add 500 lbs it will compress an inch, each coil will compress ~ 1/5", remove a coil and it will compress ~ 1/5 of an inch less as there are less coils to move. The spring rate is a function of the length of wire in the coil, where decreasing the length will INCREASE the rate. See here is the formula k = Gd4/[8nD3] Where k is the rate and n is the number of coils, ... the n, it's behind a division sign. Funny that... What worries me, is he spoke like he was in the engineering field (but not, or not yet, one), and that sort of thing is what gives the field such a bad rap… Hopefully he will realize his inexperience soon. Anyway, Northwest girl, we do digress… Who told you “ignitor” , that term is synonymous with Pertronix ignition that replaces points type ignition in “old” cars… oh and fancy “coil on plug” stuff. The justys do have a ECM or Electronic Control Module, that does some crazy electronic black art switchy stuff, and hopefully doesn't let the smoke out (Look for that Lucas Electrics reference ) But it is in the distributor, not attached to the coil. What is wrong? No spark? Matt edit... just reread your original post... no spark if you can, post a pic of the distributor, with that we can tell which ignition you have, and probably somebody here has a spare...
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Post by gearheadeh on Sept 11, 2015 23:29:41 GMT -5
Matt and anyone else that cares, Spongeb0b will be back like you said.. .. ..because I thought he deserves a chance to prove whether he is good natured or not. So I gave him 30 days to think about it.
So come Monday.. ... ..Keep your heads down folks!
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Post by farmerjon on Oct 13, 2015 21:56:09 GMT -5
Hey, Thought I would jump in here instead of starting a new thread. I have an 89 Just GL 1.2L 4x4, and I am having the same problem. No spark, and I am suspecting that the part to the right of the coil in the attached picture is what has gone bad. I think that is what Northwestgirl is looking for too. I bought a new coil, but it didn't come with that other piece and I can not find a part number on it any were. I can't even find it in the electrical parts diagrams from the dealer! The reason I suspect this part is because it is the only part that I have not replaced, and that is because I cannot find it. I was driving down the road, and the car just died. checked the fuel pump and it works great. Replaced spark plugs wires cap rotor and even put in a brand spanking new distributor strait from Japan. Replaced the wiring assembly coming out of the distributor checked all the connections I could without tearing into the wiring harness. The engine turns over but there is no spark. I even pulled the plugs out and turned the engine over to see if they were sparking - nothing. I've put over 250,000 miles on this car without a single problem ever, and I have never had any problems working on it, so this is driving me nuts. Any suggestions?
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Post by Armageddous on Oct 13, 2015 23:04:40 GMT -5
The piece is called the igniter. There are some on ebay for an exorbitant cost, or you could hunt junk yards.
Terry
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