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Post by madmatt on Feb 3, 2015 15:27:37 GMT -5
i think in a road car, the pump extension would be more then adequate. originally that was my plan...
but so many people have been theorizing about oil starvation on jumps, and aerated oil from the rough terrain, I'm saying damn the torpedoes. get 6 liters of oil put it in a remote can so it can settle, cool it, and pump it again!
plan is to use 2 melling 55's (sbc pumps) one high volume as a scavange pump, and a standard volume as the pressure pump
going to run them off the cam pulley...
I'll keep the stock pump in place and the scavange pump will pull from mid way in the pan. the stock pump will take over if i loose the belt and I'll have time to shut it down.
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Post by kcswimrac on Feb 5, 2015 1:42:02 GMT -5
Hah, I just finished running some calculations on my custom exhaust manifold and the results make me laugh a little thought i'd share the results. I was trying to figure out how long my exhaust runners would have to be in-order to take advantage of the scavenging effect to increase peak torque. So at 3600rpm, which according to dusty's site is the peak torque rpm for efi, I would require 57.7" long runners to the collector (aka 4.5', 138.6cm, 1.38m) and a diameter pipe of 0.97" (2.46cm)**
Haha Looks like that idea isn't going to happen, maybe if I can get some dyno time after she's up and running i'll make a rough set out of steel and compare just to see if there is a difference.
**Disclaimer: They were very rough calculations just trying to get a ballpark figure and by no means a definitive result. Equations I was using came from "Four-Stroke Performance Tuning" by A. Graham Bell
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Post by Armageddous on Feb 18, 2015 0:24:56 GMT -5
i think in a road car, the pump extension would be more then adequate. originally that was my plan... but so many people have been theorizing about oil starvation on jumps, and aerated oil from the rough terrain, I'm saying damn the torpedoes. get 6 liters of oil put it in a remote can so it can settle, cool it, and pump it again! plan is to use 2 melling 55's (sbc pumps) one high volume as a scavange pump, and a standard volume as the pressure pump going to run them off the cam pulley... I'll keep the stock pump in place and the scavange pump will pull from mid way in the pan. the stock pump will take over if i loose the belt and I'll have time to shut it down. Seal your chain guide to the block!! Terry
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Post by madmatt on Feb 18, 2015 1:04:47 GMT -5
oh it was sealed....
As was everything else...
At first build it made a solid 40 lbs of pressure.
That pump just can't keep the needed flow up to keep the bearings happy at sustained RPM... is my thought
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Post by kcswimrac on Feb 19, 2015 23:15:22 GMT -5
The Justy Runs!!! Well it idles and revs to 2000.. lol Now it's just got a lot of tuning to happen in-order to get it running well. Good new, even in the poor state of tune it fires right and runs. Also did a little future paint sampling on the hood. I think I've decided it will be getting painted in "Lexus Spectra Blue 8M6" with black primer. Below is a photo of the sample area on the hood with different color primers. The photo doesn't really do it justice, it is beautiful in the sun light, a dark metallic blue. I left extra length of primer just in-case I find another color I want to try on it.
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Post by kcswimrac on Feb 27, 2015 14:12:44 GMT -5
Alright, question.. does anyone know where this coolant line is supposed to go? It seems like a return for the manifold heat. Not quite sure. For the moment it is just plugged into the the reservoir line into the radiator. I'm assuming missing a fitting or a pipe for the EFI on this that the carb version doesn't have.
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Post by madmatt on Feb 27, 2015 15:23:02 GMT -5
I can't recall your situation. did you efi a carbed car?
the efi lower coolant line (the hardline that runs from the pump to the lower rad connection) contains the thermostat and has a provision for that line to attach. if you've swapped to efi from carb and you want that line... and thermostat housing. pretty sure i have a spare.
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Post by kcswimrac on Feb 28, 2015 19:25:14 GMT -5
Madmatt, yes I went from carbed to efi and thank you for the offer, but it's probably not worth trying to figure out shipping for one. I'll probably just pull the lower hard-line off and tig weld in a hard-line the same I.D. as the tubing and hope that will work. Thank you.
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Post by madmatt on Mar 1, 2015 9:26:42 GMT -5
sweet.
Are you running a thermostat? or just saying "nah. leave it open"?
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Post by kcswimrac on Mar 1, 2015 18:43:56 GMT -5
Currently it's set up with a coolant temp sensor which reports to the Megasquirt and will start the radiator fan when needed. Other than that, it will probably open.
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Post by kcswimrac on May 22, 2015 9:10:30 GMT -5
Forgot to update! Justy is running and driving, does burnouts in second gear and seems to have a fair amount of more power. Finally i can say it time for adventure!!
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Post by madmatt on May 22, 2015 16:31:20 GMT -5
sound clip or it didn't happen! Awesome news...
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Post by southerner on Jul 11, 2015 16:06:33 GMT -5
Sooo !? kcswimrac where are the videos !? what did you do with the exhaust manifold !? seems like everythime i ask something, i find someone who already did it..
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Post by kcswimrac on Jul 14, 2015 18:12:04 GMT -5
Hah, well it went pretty well, felt like way more power I'll see if I can find some videos... but me being bored and wanting to see what else I can get out of it, I decided to try putting a turbo on it.. so now I'm in the middle of that project..(I must like not being able to drive it around or something..)
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Post by kcswimrac on Jul 14, 2015 18:45:40 GMT -5
So turbo upgrade route, electronics are already capable of managing the turbo, bought her a rebuilt Garrett GT15 turbo, which is one of the smallest turbos i've ever laid eyes on. lol And if i'm going turbo I figured I might as well address some oiling issues, so items to come: larger oil reserve (3 quarts is just too little in my opinion), building a higher volume oil pump and will be doing the brass sleeve for the oil pump shaft. Smallest turbo I've seen a Garrett GT15 and yet they make 2 even smaller. Milled down one of my oil rotors then surface ground. I'd feel bad if i added a turbo oil cooling line to an already starving engine and didn't increase the oil flow. This is the goal, since it is a positive displacement pump it should work, so rather than the stock 0.574" rotors it will be 0.861" which will give me an increase in volume to 150% of stock. Next will be to machine the outer rotor to the same dimensions and do my best to TIG weld them together and grind/polish it smooth again, and to machine an aluminium spacer/housing to hold it all between the front cover and the oil pump cover. I'll also me doing the bronze sleeve at this point.
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Post by southerner on Jul 14, 2015 22:59:44 GMT -5
Been trying to do something like this.. i'm gonna enjoy the rest of this process.. please make sure you document this thoroughly
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Post by kcswimrac on Jul 15, 2015 16:14:30 GMT -5
Got the outer rotor milled down, overall length of rotors was surface ground to within 0.0005" of each other with an overall length of .967". Up next is to v-goove and weld it all together! (:
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Post by madmatt on Jul 15, 2015 16:26:59 GMT -5
Very Very Very nice... I'm curious why you chose to weld the rotors together with the shaft still in? I considered going this route, and planned to press out the shaft and replace with a full length shaft so it would still be removable. Will you be able to press out the shaft after? (say you want change shafts in the future for whatever reason) Anyway, such nice work we don't often see here.
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Post by kcswimrac on Jul 15, 2015 18:22:00 GMT -5
Honestly, I thought about pressing out the shaft but didn't want to make another extended shaft to drive it, really this was just me seeing if this will work when i'm done with it. If I were to build a second one, i'd probably press it out. Actually thought about trying to CNC another rotor for a future project.
Actually thinking about it, I could probably still press out the shaft(s) when i'm all done with it.
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Post by indkid87 on Jul 15, 2015 18:45:57 GMT -5
Instead of welding them and trying to grind it smooth again. What about using some press fit pins in the "wings" of the rotor?
Also, what about extending the shaft into the pump cover and pressing a brass bushing into the cover? It'll give the rotor another bearing surface to ride on. Justyjuggler's idea, not mine...
-Dave
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