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Post by blacklight on Nov 3, 2013 2:33:18 GMT -5
To what price? I've looked at some services here in Sweden that rebuild and manufacture new trans axles. May do some more research on that.
//Magnus.
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Post by madmatt on Nov 3, 2013 17:54:34 GMT -5
Magnus,
Just to clarify, we are talking about the "u-joints" in the drive shaft (prop shaft) that leads from the transfer case of the transmission to the rear differential correct? Over here "trans axle" refers to an entire transmission with differential, such as in a FWD car
It was about 10 years ago... and even then they were not available in standard parts shops. But I took the joints into a driveline shop, and they measured them and found a part to fit. I seem recall spending $80 for both joints ($40 each)
Matt
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Post by blacklight on Nov 4, 2013 14:32:04 GMT -5
Ah. Sorry. My bad. Yes, I'm referring to the propeller shaft ( about 1,7m long), from the transmission to the rear differential. The price you post doesn't sound to bad. Gonna make some research on this. //Magnus.
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Post by Armageddous on Nov 5, 2013 9:41:07 GMT -5
I have an extra shaft if you need it. We have a transmission/drive line shop here that will change u-joints in these style drive shafts. If you noticed, they're pressed in and not easily changed.
Terry
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Post by madmatt on Nov 5, 2013 10:48:39 GMT -5
Yep, they are "pressed", but I managed to do it with a decent "5 lb impact press" There were a few expletives uttered...
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Post by blacklight on Nov 9, 2013 0:55:36 GMT -5
Hey madmatt Just got a reply from a firm that rebuilds these shafts, but he says he doesn't have the data for 'em. Do you have these? Or should I wait until I can remove the shaft and then measure and send him the data myself?
//Magnus
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Post by madmatt on Nov 9, 2013 11:34:00 GMT -5
Magnus,
It was 10 yrs ago... I may have written down in my "Justy parts" book, but I don't think so. I will look but don't count on it.
If I recall correctly, I took a joint in, they measured it on the spot, and found something in a reference book.
Matt
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Post by madmatt on Nov 11, 2013 21:30:11 GMT -5
Sorry... I looked. No part number. But it was a common part...
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Post by blacklight on Dec 22, 2013 5:56:42 GMT -5
Update...
I'm now at home, where my Justy is. Now, I'm standing in front of three choices: A: Send my existing shaft to restoration. B: Buy a used one in Sweden = 227 usd, shipping not included... C: Get a used one from either Germany or UK, which is about half of what I have to pay for here in Sweden.
Ideas?
//Magnus
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Post by madmatt on Dec 22, 2013 11:53:28 GMT -5
I'd take it to a place that does drivelines... Jeeps or 4wd's in general.
Have them measure it up and see what they can find. Then you are working with a known good shaft. My guess is it would be less then the shipping on a complete unit!
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Post by blacklight on Feb 1, 2014 15:04:22 GMT -5
News! Out of coincidence, I found a company that sells u-joints here in Sweden that had one that fit my shaft. And to top it off, it is equipped with a grease nipple. I've taken some pictures, and made a few movies of the operation in replacing one cross, but I haven't compiled the movie yet so you gonna have to do with the pics posted below until further notice. Rear differential joint. This is one of the really busted ones. :/ Shaft removed. Carrier bearing detached. All set. Just need to slide a bowl in under the gearbox and then pull the shaft, if oil were to leak. The U-joint I replaced today. It was a bitch getting the X out, but after some considerable force with a small sledgehammer, it popped out. (More in video later). New joint installed!
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Post by madmatt on Feb 1, 2014 15:47:04 GMT -5
Excellent news!
Now, before you loose the box! Post the part number!
Matt
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Post by blacklight on Feb 1, 2014 16:37:33 GMT -5
Excellent news! Now, before you loose the box! Post the part number! Matt Sorry matt, I only have their internal part no. The measurements though is: 20 (press fit = probably some hundred of a mm over) at the X ends diameter 54.60mm between X ends (across the X center. Kind of hard to explain.
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Post by blacklight on Feb 8, 2014 5:16:42 GMT -5
Alright! The shaft is in and the test-run went wonderful! Though, at low loads, any engine temp, around 18-2200 rpm, the engine seem to make "jolts" and tugs. RPM gauge drops to 0 in an instant and the solenoids on the firewall I can hear shutting off. This leads me to believe there's something wrong with the distributor pickup? //Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Feb 16, 2014 14:34:40 GMT -5
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Post by blacklight on Feb 17, 2014 19:04:13 GMT -5
Right. After a long-run today (50 metric miles), I've concluded that the "jolting" only appears between 1300 (about) and 2500, never higher. I've also noted that an engine mount is bad... Ideas on how to diagnose and replace each mount...?
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Post by blacklight on Apr 12, 2014 5:00:09 GMT -5
Anyone got ideas on how to diagnose the motor mounts? :/
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Post by Armageddous on Apr 12, 2014 23:37:49 GMT -5
You can visually inspect for torn rubber or obvious failure, you can use a prey bar to check for excessive movement or you can put the car in gear, pop the hood and rock the car back and forth and see which mount moves the most. Or take them all out, but that is awfully time consuming Terry
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Post by justyjuggler on Apr 14, 2014 7:39:04 GMT -5
Anyone got ideas on how to diagnose the motor mounts? :/ Just assume the bottom one is shot
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Post by indkid87 on Apr 14, 2014 8:45:27 GMT -5
Anyone got ideas on how to diagnose the motor mounts? :/ Just assume the bottom one is shot Agreed, those are always shot. Visual inspection is really the best way, the bottom one is usually cracked in half. It's not too hard to remove. Just support the engine and remove the longitudinal crossbar from under it. Unfortunately there isn't really a cheap source for new ones, I recommend rebuilding them yourself with polyurethane or something softer so it won't rattle your fillings out. I rebuilt my lower mount with hockey pucks long ago, but those are a bit too stiff in a DD. -Dave
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