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Post by baloo on Apr 2, 2012 13:28:07 GMT -5
lol what a project, marverlous indeed, l admire your ambition, is there more to this project somewhere else ?, l only just stumbled on this l am a long way behind whats been happening
Andy
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Post by Captain Nemo on Apr 3, 2012 23:38:47 GMT -5
Thanks, mate. The going is slow since it's only me doing any of the work. I finished the half shaft seals yesterday though. The open end of the CV boot clamps to a ring around the opening in the hull.
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Post by baloo on Apr 4, 2012 13:58:43 GMT -5
very neat, so does the engine and box sit in a hull keeping the water away from it and the drive shafts slipping through holes and sealed with those rubber boots ?
what are you going to use it for when its finished ?
Andy
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Post by Captain Nemo on Apr 5, 2012 4:16:03 GMT -5
I've built a hull that runs under the full length of the car, have yet to sheet it though. Yes, the axles poke out through a hole, sealed by the above, the tie rod arms are the same, but don't spin so can be clamped direct to the boot. I'm going to see what running without the anti roll bar is like, since it is going to be a pain in the proverbial to mount it right and out of the way.
IF ANYONE HAS A NON COMPUTER EF12 CARB, I NEED ONE. Will pay freight from anywhere.
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Post by madmatt on Apr 5, 2012 10:33:35 GMT -5
Nemo, Weber for the win! As for no sway bar, I removed it from the rally car years ago... Much better The car no longer pushes in the corners at all, just leans, grips and goes! But I am running 175lb springs. Unless you are planning to add a lot of weight with the hull work (like over 200lbs...) I would think the car would be manageable without the bar on stock springs. How the h#!! did you get that seal over the splines? Matt
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Post by Captain Nemo on Apr 6, 2012 3:14:10 GMT -5
Thanks matt. I'm thinking the extra weight of the car will be about that of 1 person, so not dramatic. I'm thinking heavier springs are going to be easier than trying to fit the hull around the anti-roll bar, so will go with your experience on that one. Here's how the seal was done : Machined a sleeve with an internal diameter of slightly under the axle shaft, so an interference fit. I split it length ways in half with a thin cutting disc, so ended up with a 1.5mm gap on each side when wrapped around the axle. The sleeve and outer shell are made of 304 stainless, by the way. I then TIG welded the sleeve together using just enough heat to penetrate to the shaft but not into it (theoretically, was a bit of guess work there since I couldn't see the bottom of the weld), Filling the space and building it up with 304 filler rod. Now, stainless on average has a higher expansion rate that even aluminium, so as the thick welds cooled the contraction pulled the sleeve halves tight to the shaft. I will still bee sealing the ends to stop salt creep into the tiny air gap though. Then I just turned the outer surface of the sleeve in a lathe to 25mm for the 2 bearings with a step up to 27mm for the seals which also acts as a stop for the bearings. The splines are about 24mm. So, when the seals wear out, I just take out the whole shaft, take of the inner boot, flick out the wire ring, take off the outer cv housing, remove the circlip, slide off the inner cv race, remove the circlip at the seal bearing and slide the whole seal housing off the shaft. The rod end on the outer case is for a stay going to the firewall, just so the boot doesn't have to deal with the slight twisting force of the seal friction, or rusted bearings should they leak over the years. Probably overkill, but engineers tend to do that. The biggest difficulty with this project has been in designing it to be reusable. So it'll be repairable and long lasting.......well, as long as people keep making spare parts for Justy's that is. The hull is all steel because it is easy to cut out a bad/bent or rusted area and weld in a new section. The internal exhaust in in sections that are accessible from the back or under the hood and the main section is straight enough to be feed out through the hole for the water jet unit. All mounts are accessible through hatches in the floor pan and bolt through from the top, rather than from the underside, where possible.
ps, have found a two throat carb off of a Toyota 3K motor (1200cc) that should do the trick, will let you know.
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Post by madmatt on Apr 6, 2012 9:04:27 GMT -5
Dude that's awesome...
Are you a machinist by trade, or an engineer who actually knows how to use the tools? He he he...
Sometimes I regret not following my tinkering love and passing on the engineering profession (damn math....)!
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dogoman
A Boxer engine will fit in a Justy, its called a WRX
Posts: 445
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Post by dogoman on Apr 6, 2012 22:26:45 GMT -5
3k or 4 k carb should work, just check the jet sizes. Will be interested how it works out, i'm about ready to toss this POS hitachi carb on mine away, damn things blocked a primary idle circuit AGAIN, and the fuels clean as can be, no signs of crud in the float bowl, and its been sucking out of a 20 litre outboard tin in the boot to remove the possibility of crap coming from the main tank.
if the 3k works, its got to be cheaper than a weber mod. (wonder what 3 x 24 mm motorbike mikuni's would go like?)
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Post by Captain Nemo on Apr 6, 2012 23:43:10 GMT -5
Given each pot is 400cc give or take a bit, try a carb of a farm Quad the same size, should be jetted for a similar rev range then, and closer to the right jet size. Makes it easier to tune from there. They'll also be cheaper...... theoretically. Just don't forget to put balancing take off points in the manifold. Better still might be an 800 V-twin road bike. Suzuki Intruder 800 kawasaki vulcan 800
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dogoman
A Boxer engine will fit in a Justy, its called a WRX
Posts: 445
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Post by dogoman on Apr 7, 2012 3:02:49 GMT -5
had a rat in my junk bin, found 4 carbs off a couple of XL600 hondas, still with the progressive linkages. Need to design a manifold now, this may take a while.
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Post by madmatt on Apr 7, 2012 13:44:10 GMT -5
Have you guys seen my carb set up? 3 Mikuni 32 mm slides... It's not sorted yet, ran out of time last fall to get it tuned. Pulls like a raped ape to about half throttle then they are over jetted... Just need to jet them right and it should be awesome. Big cam in it too. I didn't do a balance tube since they are easy carbs to sync, but it's not out of the question as an add in. I used the FI head since there is no water jacket around the intake, was easy to weld up a couple of 32 mm tubes after cutting off the stock runners. i961.photobucket.com/albums/ae93/MadMattF/justy/P1020251-1.jpgi961.photobucket.com/albums/ae93/MadMattF/justy/P1020248.jpg
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dogoman
A Boxer engine will fit in a Justy, its called a WRX
Posts: 445
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Post by dogoman on Apr 7, 2012 17:08:14 GMT -5
hehe looks good, my idea is to use 2 of the dual carb setups off the old honda XL600 where you have a primary carb that covers 0 -1/2 throttle and a progressive linkage that opens the second carb over the remaining 1/2 throttle. I think those should work, and i can at least adjust the secondary opening point, and jets in both carbs.
Will design a new manifold for it, got plenty of scrap tubing and plates laying around.
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Post by Captain Nemo on Apr 7, 2012 22:18:46 GMT -5
It's not sorted yet, ran out of time last fall to get it tuned. Pulls like a raped ape to about half throttle then they are over jetted... Probably running way lean, raise the needles to the highest notch, this will richen 1/3 to 3/4 throtle, see if it improves a little. If so you know which way to go with the main jet.
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Post by Captain Nemo on Nov 19, 2012 2:57:06 GMT -5
ok..............
So after refurbishing the '94 Legacy twin turbo and fixing all the oil leaks it's sold, top end rebuild and total check over of the new Aprilia RS250 track bike, Rust welding and fix up to get the 89 Justy on the road. Leak fix, seat crossmember and wood replacement on the 10' dingy done, it's trailer made legal and the 15hp outboard complete rebuild and paint. Also replacement of the turbo on the Stagea RS wagon, clear out of excess Justy parts and building of a grit blasting cabnet.....
I have started work on the Floater again, I'll be posting picks before Christmas and doing the first float test just after.
Finaly.
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Post by madmatt on Nov 21, 2012 18:16:26 GMT -5
Nice!
It will be great to see progress. I know how easy these projects can get sidetracked by real life...
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Post by 88gl on Nov 28, 2012 15:09:04 GMT -5
I really didn't need to hear how your dingy was doing. hehe just messin' with ya.
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Post by madmatt on Nov 28, 2012 15:59:12 GMT -5
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Post by Captain Nemo on Jan 5, 2013 20:53:43 GMT -5
Actually, Nemo I don't know why you're going to all the trouble, when you could just buy this! (scroll to 0:32 to get to the point!) I laughed and laughed and laughed...... It's got a hull, they just don't mention it. OR... No engine. Notice it was parked on a steep boat ramp and just rolled into the water? Funny how it sits dead level with an open to the water engine bay.... Infomercials, they can't even lie convincingly. Still, thanks for the chuckle
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Post by madvti on Jan 20, 2013 10:13:54 GMT -5
What the farcle. That advert is so funny.
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Post by Captain Nemo on Apr 17, 2013 15:41:23 GMT -5
Due to being offered a sponsorship deal to go bike racing (road bike circut) again, I need the space and money and time to concentrate on that alone. Racing is a passion, floating car is a thing to do, guess which one wins So.... Along with a number of other projects, the floating Justy is canceled. I'll be keeping the special parts I've made (axles, jet unit etc) and will store them under the house until I get the time, probably after retirement I will be keeping the run around, so wont be completely Justy free. I will be restoring and selling the set of origonal Subaru 12" aluminum wheels to anyone interested. They were an option on the first gen cars. Also have some dash digital clocks I'll dig out and sell. Small package, so postage should be ok from way down here. Anyone interested in the above or any other parts from 2 and 4 door gen 1 email me at wandering_starr@hotmail.com
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