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Post by blacklight on Jun 3, 2010 13:44:39 GMT -5
Armageddous:
Checked carburetor gasket, intake gasket, valve timing, valve clearance and catalytic converter.
Gonna check the vacuum lines when I get time.'
Not sure which PVC valve you mean.
Thanks. Magnus.
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Post by Armageddous on Jun 4, 2010 1:05:56 GMT -5
The PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is threaded into the intake manifold and has a hose leading to the valve cover. It's job is to suck crankcase fumes into the engine to get burned. Because the valve deals with a lot of oil and sludge it's common for them to stick open and create a big vacuum leak. Also, if they stick closed, you can end up blowing all your engine seals very quickly.
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Post by blacklight on Jun 4, 2010 12:05:36 GMT -5
Ah. Thanks for the info, but no such thing exists on my engine. (One thing less to worry about...) //Magnus.
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Post by Armageddous on Jun 4, 2010 20:16:51 GMT -5
Hmm. So is the hole is plugged on the intake, then? The location of the PCV valve on a carbureted intake is on the right side and it just sorta sticks out. So there are no hoses from your valve cover going anywhere?
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SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
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Post by SeattleJusty on Jun 5, 2010 1:02:45 GMT -5
Hmm. So is the hole is plugged on the intake, then? The location of the PCV valve on a carbureted intake is on the right side and it just sorta sticks out. So there are no hoses from your valve cover going anywhere? From the mechanic's perspective, the PCV valve would be on the left side. Far left rear near the carb base, angled kinda upward. You're best off with a deep-well socket I believe.
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Post by blacklight on Jun 5, 2010 1:04:07 GMT -5
Well, there's a hose for crankcase ventilation going from the oil separator in the valve rocker cover to a big nipple on the dirty side of the air cleaner element. However, there's no valve on this hose, nor in the oil separator.
//Magnus.
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Danimal
Getting my two Justys back together after a Justy hiatus.
Posts: 589
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Post by Danimal on Jun 5, 2010 1:24:22 GMT -5
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Post by blacklight on Jun 5, 2010 9:50:11 GMT -5
Nope. That's just a ordinary metal tube which goes through the air cleaner case.
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Post by blacklight on Jun 15, 2010 14:45:05 GMT -5
I've tried running the engine with a vacuum gauge installed and pinching all vacuumlines there is, but manifold vacuum remains the same... :/
Ideas?
//Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Jul 1, 2010 15:12:26 GMT -5
Anyone? Ideas? Please?
//Magnus.
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Post by nipper on Jul 9, 2010 20:02:02 GMT -5
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Danimal
Getting my two Justys back together after a Justy hiatus.
Posts: 589
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Post by Danimal on Jul 9, 2010 20:26:17 GMT -5
If I did not tell you the last time that you posted it: Great link, Nipper!
Time for a carb rebuilt, Magnus? I hate to think that you must go that route and worry that it wont fix our problem...I am guessing that your toaster, as cute as she is, would rather be a Justy; swap the engine into a Justy and it will rev higher. Danimal
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Post by RedRooJusty on Jul 10, 2010 10:23:48 GMT -5
Magnus, I have been going back over this thread and you sir have put a good deal of time and attention into this.
I revisited your youTube channel, carefully reviewing your vac-guage video (as **nipper**'s link re-sparked the interest). Your guage shows a symptom of an over-advanced timing condition when you are sputtering (above 1200 rpms), specifically when your guage is reading zero (@wot I assume). The detonation is happening way late in the combustion stroke and your acceleration goes flat with the further advance. The over-advance has you firing nearer to the bottom of the combustion stroke. Perhaps clamping a pinch on one carb-to-distributor vac line at a time could help norrow where the timing falls out.
I am going to bounce these new theories by you: 1. The vacuum lines to the dual-vac distributor are not connected to the correct ports from the carburetor. The idle timing would look fine.
2. There is a broken "advance" plate in your distributor causing the advance curve to be broken.
To the rest of the forum: Have any of you carbureted justy owners accidentally mis-connected the vac-advance lines? If so, what were the symptoms?
-Magnus, I really do hope you find the problem.
-RRJ
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Post by Armageddous on Jul 10, 2010 18:39:15 GMT -5
I had them flipped, missing, leaking.. There is not a huge amount of difference. The computer still deals with the timing for the most part. On that theory, Magnus, pay good attention to your timing belt orientation and if that is where it should be, then mark your distributor housing where #1 cylinder is and see how far off your rotor is. Also check to make sure your firing order is right.. It's 1-3-2 going counter clockwise.
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Post by jradsan on Jul 12, 2010 13:51:19 GMT -5
I have had the lines flipped before and the results were pretty strange. there was very strange power issues that are difficult to explain. at times it would have no power after shifting then the power would come back. this was while driving the car to the mechanic. out of first gear from a stop i would have a hard time getting across the street because there was so little power. at other times it felt like i hit a power band on a 2 stroke and then it would drive normally up to 4k rpm when i would shift and lose power again in the bottom of the next gear. very strange. hope that helps
Jared
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Post by blacklight on Jul 12, 2010 16:29:05 GMT -5
I don't think that I, nor any of you, will get saner on this problem... Through the help of nipper's link, I went out to the toaster and tinkered with a timing light, my vacuum gauge and the distributor setting. As you all know, the vacuum was low on idle before. Now, I adjusted the timing by looking at the vacuum gauge, and ignored the timing light. Heureka! The vacuum is within normal limits! THOUGH, my small-car brothers. The ignition timing indicated by the timing light on the crankshaft pulley IS OFF THE SCALE! :S Haven't got the time (neither daylight, for that matter ) to rev the engine at this stage. Tomorrow, I'm gonna check and note the vacuum, and look at which timing mark on the crankshaft pulley that actually comes in conjunction with the timing light. Like I said; I don't think this problem will get us more sane... XD Thanks for all the replies, really. Sincerely, Magnus. Ps to RRO: My distributor only have one vacuum diaphragm housing with one hose, and the other ignition controller is centrifugal weights.
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Post by blacklight on Jul 13, 2010 8:57:03 GMT -5
Made a testrun today. Now I can drive it like a "normal" car, completely without choke! Though, there's a small drop in performance, about where the fast-idle system goes out and the main system takes over. I just press the gas pedal past this glitch, and it runs great. Not sure why it does this though... :S Sincerely, Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Jul 27, 2010 16:37:33 GMT -5
Update: Problem with "effect-glitch" remains. Have tried adjusting the idle mixture, but no change have been noted. Btw. Now it kind of hesitates sometimes during highway driving. Also, it's sometimes hard to start it when it's hot (cranking is difficult). In other news... I've found a EF12 engine for the Libero located in Poland. And it's fuel injected!... Gonna do some research on it and get back later. //Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Sept 9, 2010 17:20:23 GMT -5
Last update, I think. The problem all along seems to have been improper ignition angle. Why I can't set this by the way described in the manual is unknown. The car seem to be running fine now, but I'm gonna clean the acceleration pump channels again, because of the hesitation at normal highway speeds. (90 km/h, 5th gear.) Conversion to EFI is making progress. I've attached a coolant temperature sensor, have injectors, pump, filter, hoses, IAT-sensor, TPS and a fuel pressure regulator. May start an other thread about the conversion, or at least post a link to it. Thank you all so much for helping me in this thread. I really appreciate it. And as promised, I will keep a link to this lovely forum on my home-page, www.subaruklubben.seThis is a club for Swedish (primarily) Subaru-enthusiasts. Registration is completely free, and I provide a huge forum for all Subaru's models ever imported into Sweden. Sincerely, Magnus.
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Post by brokebacksubie on Jan 8, 2011 1:07:27 GMT -5
you might check your exhaustwhere the two pipes come together the insides of mine fell apart and the stuff pluged up the exhaust pipe couldnt get over 3000 rpm's
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