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Post by deegore on Dec 27, 2015 20:57:31 GMT -5
It's an 89 4x4 with a carb. Used to get 32-38mpg. It slowly dropped to 21-27mpg over the course of 6 tanks. Some of that is likely because of colder weather. The hesitation is occasional, and is only while accelerating, mostly going from 1st to 2nd. It bucks really hard and the car behind me almost rear ends me. Sometimes it runs just fine. Like when I dropped it off at the mechanic, he couldn't find anything wrong. The ecu error was 24 - idle up solenoid. I repaired the solenoid and hooked it back up. it turned on and off three times and then stayed on, car was warm and all electronics off. So I backed off the screw so it wouldn't idle-up. Then I plugged in both the connectors under the dash to see if the code would clear. Instead it gave these codes: 15 - coast fuel cutoff system 16 - feed back system 24 - idle-up solenoid 33 - car speed sensor 62 - idle up system (1) Here is what I've tried so far, New plugs, wires, distributor cap, fuel filter, air filter, o2 sensor, and adjusted timing. The engine and carb were rebuilt last winter. Now I'm looking for advice. What to try next?
The only code I could find any info on is the speed sensor. The Chilton book says to check the voltage in terminal 29 of the ecu. Does this mean disconnect and check the harness, or leave it plugged in and push a pin through the wire to check voltage? Thanks for reading that whole mess.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Dec 29, 2015 0:29:03 GMT -5
bad ignitor is my guess. sounds like its not lighting off all the fuel.
remember this thing is carbed so not a lot of those codes are going to tell you much. but if your ignition timing is properly at the right number of degrees, and the guts of your distributor have not moved within the case causing a weird timing issue then id go with ignitor/coil. if you can test with a known good one that would be best. otherwise consider grabbing like an MSD blaster style coil and trying that.
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Post by deegore on Dec 29, 2015 18:19:23 GMT -5
Is the igniter the same thing as the coil? I will try a different one tomorrow. Does that mean the codes are meaningless? Today it gave a code for the egr valve. I was going to clean the egr and could not find it. I I thought it should be in the middle of this picture. Here it is zoomed in. Do some Justys not have an egr? When I start the car cold it idles at 750 rpm, so I have to keep my for on the gas for a bit to keep it running. As it warms up the idle goes up to 1200rpm. Then it fluctuates between 1200 and 2000 rpm. The choke is operating like it should. I've sprayed carb cleaner every where there might be a vacuum leak and couldn't find any. I checked the voltage going to the ecu from the vss and it seems right. Just a thought but if the ecu is going bad could it be advancing the timing incorrectly?
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Post by deegore on Feb 16, 2016 11:52:35 GMT -5
I put a new coil and egr valve in and no difference. Then I thought it might be a plugged cat, but it ran the same with the O2 sensor removed.
So I had another mechanic look at it and he said the problem is in the carb, but they couldn't get it to run right. He said there are no mechanics in the area that know much on carburators. He didn't think cleaning it would help, but I don't know what else to try.
Since the carb was rebuilt last year, could I reuse the gaskets if I take it apart to clean it? Any other ideas I could try?
The problem keeps getting worse and I can barely go up even the smallest hill. Idle climbs to around 2000 as it warms up.
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Post by deegore on Feb 19, 2016 17:27:49 GMT -5
I took the carb apart today and found some issues. The accelerator pump diaphragm was torn and some of it got into the fuel bowl. The fuel bowl vent solenoid thing is ripped also. There was no clip on the float seat. Rebuild kit tomorrow. I could use some advice on setting the float level. I laid the choke chamber upside down without the gasket and laid a 7/16 drill bit under the float. Then i bent the tab so it just touched the tip of the valve stem. Sound right?
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Post by justine on Feb 19, 2016 18:03:57 GMT -5
Sorry i have an mpfi, couldnt help you. glad you found your issue and its not too much work. This entirely explains your original issue. Hope the carb rebuild goes well and you get her running again soon.
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Post by Armageddous on Feb 19, 2016 22:54:49 GMT -5
I can't help with the set up but I do have this. Terry
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Post by deegore on Feb 20, 2016 11:42:10 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies. I am going off this image. Fuel is 3/4 full in the window. I'm guessing it should be half full? I'm also not understanding how to adjust the primary and secondary throttle valve interlink. The manual says the secondary throttle valve should start to open when the primary valve is opened 47 degrees. Mine doesn't start to open until the primary valve is almost fully opened, but I see no way to adjust. The part labeled adjust plate can only fit on the square throttle shaft one way.
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Post by deegore on Mar 3, 2016 19:41:02 GMT -5
Well, the carb rebuild didn't make much difference. I got the fast idle set right so it stays running when it's cold, but it still wants to idle at 2000rpm when it's warm and has a lack of power. I can pull it down to 1200 by letting out the clutch in gear with the brakes on, but it slowly climbs back to 2000. Does any one know if fuel should squirt in both the venturies when you press the gas, or just the primary?
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Post by JustyRally on Mar 5, 2016 1:25:42 GMT -5
You said it has lack of power, may want to check your timing belt to make sure it didn't jump a tooth.
Thats what happend to me, spring broke went under the belt. I had lack of power and had a hell of a time trying figure out what was going on. Mine is MPI so it advanced the timing so it "seemed" fine till it was warm out of choke mode. Then serious lack of power.
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Post by deegore on Mar 9, 2016 20:10:31 GMT -5
Timing belt is lined up, but I did find out I'm missing the spring on the tensioner pulley. I pulled the exhaust off to make sure the cats weren't plugged, I found out they have been gutted. I think the duty solenoid is bad. The service manual says to replace it if the ohms are over 100. Mine is at 120. I've been trying to adjust the duty ratio to 45. I get close but then it keeps either going to 95 or 4. So now I'm just about ready to order a weber kit. Can anyone confirm this one will fit my 89gl? K731 Conversion Kit Weber carb 32/36 DGEV
Any advice on making the swap? Or anything else I should try first?
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Post by Armageddous on Mar 10, 2016 0:16:21 GMT -5
The high warm idle is either a carb issue or a timing issue.
Either way, putting on a weber will rule one of those out. I'm not sure if that one will work as I have no experience with them.
Terry
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Post by deegore on Mar 11, 2016 18:56:09 GMT -5
One more thing I'm wondering about before I pull the trigger on a weber. If the duty solenoid is going bad, would it run bad when it's cold too? Right now it has no power hot or cold. I tried a different carb with a bad duty solenoid just to see, and it ran worse yet.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2016 12:34:28 GMT -5
The Justy shares the same carb base as the ea82 engine, so it appears that you have the correct kit picked out. I have been rebuilding Hitachi carbs on these vehicles for over 10 years and the Justy carb is the worst of the lot. It's overly complex, and has too many feedback systems. Once you start messing with the fast idle and throttle plate adjustments you're done. That's a rookie mistake. What you really want to do with a carb is leave the fast idle alone and fix the carb until it runs correctly at the factory fast idle setting. It's a very sensitive setting, so once you change it you have actually just added one more incorrect adjustment to the list of things you are trying to trouble-shoot so it just confounds things even more. It's extremely difficult to get it back in adjustment once you change it.
Get the Weber. The Hitachis on older Subarus can be ok if you find a good unit, but the Justy carb is connected to too many old sensors, wires, and vacuum circuits that are often no longer available as replacement parts and can fail simultaneously since they are all equally old more or less. If you want to de-tune the Weber for fuel efficiency, pick up a few extra idle jets. I think the K731 kit comes with 45's, so you might order a couple 40's and 35's. They are super easy to swap out on the Weber; it's just a screw cover on the exterior of the carb.
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Post by madmatt on Mar 12, 2016 12:42:06 GMT -5
The Justy shares the same carb base as the ea82 engine, so it appears that you have the correct kit picked out. I have been rebuilding Hitachi carbs on these vehicles for over 10 years and the Justy carb is the worst of the lot. It's overly complex, and has too many feedback systems. Once you start messing with the fast idle and throttle plate adjustments you're done. That's a rookie mistake. What you really want to do with a carb is leave the fast idle alone and fix the carb until it runs correctly at the factory fast idle setting. It's a very sensitive setting, so once you change it you have actually just added one more incorrect adjustment to the list of things you are trying to trouble-shoot so it just confounds things even more. It's extremely difficult to get it back in adjustment once you change it. Get the Weber. The Hitachis on older Subarus can be ok if you find a good unit, but the Justy carb is connected to too many old sensors, wires, and vacuum circuits that are often no longer available as replacement parts and can fail simultaneously since they are all equally old more or less. If you want to de-tune the Weber for fuel efficiency, pick up a few extra idle jets. I think the K731 kit comes with 45's, so you might order a couple 40's and 35's. They are super easy to swap out on the Weber; it's just a screw cover on the exterior of the carb. That's the best post on here in a while...
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Post by gearheadeh on Mar 12, 2016 18:33:49 GMT -5
The Justy shares the same carb base as the ea82 engine, so it appears that you have the correct kit picked out. I have been rebuilding Hitachi carbs on these vehicles for over 10 years and the Justy carb is the worst of the lot. It's overly complex, and has too many feedback systems. Once you start messing with the fast idle and throttle plate adjustments you're done. That's a rookie mistake. What you really want to do with a carb is leave the fast idle alone and fix the carb until it runs correctly at the factory fast idle setting. It's a very sensitive setting, so once you change it you have actually just added one more incorrect adjustment to the list of things you are trying to trouble-shoot so it just confounds things even more. It's extremely difficult to get it back in adjustment once you change it. Get the Weber. The Hitachis on older Subarus can be ok if you find a good unit, but the Justy carb is connected to too many old sensors, wires, and vacuum circuits that are often no longer available as replacement parts and can fail simultaneously since they are all equally old more or less. If you want to de-tune the Weber for fuel efficiency, pick up a few extra idle jets. I think the K731 kit comes with 45's, so you might order a couple 40's and 35's. They are super easy to swap out on the Weber; it's just a screw cover on the exterior of the carb. That's the best post on here in a while... Here here, totally agree with Matt, great post.... thank you
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Post by deegore on Mar 13, 2016 0:09:09 GMT -5
Thanks for that good info. Both the shops I brought it to basically messed with the idle mixture, then gave up and charged me a hundred bucks. I just figured out that the last shop I brought it to adjusted the timing without connecting the plug under the dash. That's why I didn't think the carb rebuild helped. It's running great now. I probably will eventually get a weber but I'm happy for now as long as my gas millage goes back up. Thanks for all the help.
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Post by dez on Mar 13, 2016 5:19:05 GMT -5
Would the weber decrease mileage?
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Post by madmatt on Mar 13, 2016 13:01:42 GMT -5
Would the weber decrease mileage? not unless it's jetted overly rich... get it set right and it should very similar to the hitachi. of course if you always drive it with the secondary open... i have a 32/36 on my mgb, wish i had the original SU's... but alas they were missing when i got the car. anyway the weber is a set and forget carb. starts nice (i have the manual choke). idles well, goes okay. for Justy it won't likely make a performance difference (other then it will work!)
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Post by Armageddous on Mar 13, 2016 21:00:19 GMT -5
Thanks for that good info. Both the shops I brought it to basically messed with the idle mixture, then gave up and charged me a hundred bucks. I just figured out that the last shop I brought it to adjusted the timing without connecting the plug under the dash. That's why I didn't think the carb rebuild helped. It's running great now. I probably will eventually get a weber but I'm happy for now as long as my gas millage goes back up. Thanks for all the help. Jolly good. At least it's driveable now. Terry
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