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Post by certimafied on Nov 29, 2015 20:54:58 GMT -5
Ok so I rebuilt my engine right?. I did it all too spec. but... my little 3 banger burns coolant.
Where from I couldn't really tell. I know I should have gotten a clear diagnoses before teardown, but snow is coming soon.So I ordered a new headgasket and head bolts from subaru dealer not too bad on price.
I took the head off with no real clear indication of anything. Though Cyl 3 seemed a bit cleaner than the other two.
Not sure what I want out of this thread other than to vent a little. If anybody has any thing to add go ahead a throw your two cent in I am feeling as though I need it.
I am going to check the surfaces of my head and block though I feel they had been checked before hand. Then I thought I would double check the threads in the block for my head bolts. I checked head already with straight edge it seemed fine lets see about the block.
When I pulled the head off (with intake attached) it did seem like the carburetor adaptor for the weber was seeping some coolant maybe that was it. All I know is my coolant was dropping and first start of the day was rough on 1.5 cyl if lucky and I want my justy healthy really really bad. All I want to do is drive it!
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Post by certimafied on Nov 29, 2015 21:05:12 GMT -5
When do you guys recheck head torque after initial setup? I torqued mine initially then at about 100mile after rebuild then recheck at 500, no movement then again at about 700 when I had issue, a few bolts moved then, it was good until about 750-760 mile then my coolant burning issues.
Thanks for the help guys.
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Post by madmatt on Nov 30, 2015 9:14:54 GMT -5
oh man....
You're carbed right? The intake manifold to head gasket has been known to leak/fail... causing it to pull coolant in from the water jacket around the manifold.
On the same vein, I've had it pull OIL from the oil return on an EFI head....
So check that gasket...
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Post by certimafied on Nov 30, 2015 14:43:20 GMT -5
I am carbureted. I noticed when i pulled the head off how close the intake is to hitting the headgasket once its all assembled. I'm thinking I will maybe shave the intake a little bit where it wants to hit the headgasket.
Are you talking about the intake gasket where its mounts to the head or the head gasket itself?
I want to remake the intake gasket and the carb mount gaskets out of better material any way. The material i used the first time around seems to be letting things seep by almost like its seeping through the gasket itself, may just be me over thinking it.
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Post by madmatt on Nov 30, 2015 16:07:08 GMT -5
Are you talking about the intake gasket where its mounts to the head or the head gasket itself? This! The gasket between the intake manifold and the head. The material i used the first time around seems to be letting things seep by almost like its seeping through the gasket itself, may just be me over thinking it. And there you have it??? I made a cork one once... it pulled coolant through. I also had a paper one fail when I think there was a torqing oops... it sucked coolant. In both cases there was no outward sign of a leak. They were leaking from the upper coolant port, and weeping into the intake runner. And those are supposed to be Torque to Yield headbolts... thus no "retorque" required. I have them reused several times... I've never had a gasket failure I could blame on reused bolts, although I've blown a few head gaskets, both on the car and otherwise YMMV I have also never "retoqured.." But, we did manage to finish Galway Forest Rally in 2004 by retorquing a weeping/blown head gasket to 75 lbs!
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Post by madmatt on Nov 30, 2015 16:16:51 GMT -5
When do you guys recheck head torque after initial setup? I torqued mine initially then at about 100mile after rebuild then recheck at 500, no movement then again at about 700 when I had issue, a few bolts moved then, it was good until about 750-760 mile then my coolant burning issues. Thanks for the help guys. I just caught this... What "issue" at 700m that caused you to re-check? and did they move? how much?
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Post by certimafied on Nov 30, 2015 16:41:18 GMT -5
I just caught this... What "issue" at 700m that caused you to re-check? and did they move? how much? That was when it began to start rough and had some coolant steam/smell from the exhaust. When I retorqued it that time I got 1/4 to 1/2 turn out of the 4 center bolts outter were fine. My intake gasket right now is a paper type that was in the gasket kit i bought for the rebuild. I've slowly watched the gasket itself kind "saturate" since the rebuild. I have some really good nitrile impregnated Klingersol gasket material that I want to try I just dont think i have enough to do the intake and to make two carb adaptor gaskets, we'll see. Are these bolts torque to yeild? I didnt think they were that was why I had no problems reusing them. Mine still dont appear to have stretched out any but since I was already ordering a factory head gasket I figured I would get the bolts too just in case. I dont think the bolts had anything to do with this. So you haven't had to retorque any of your heads before? I figured that these little engines would like a retorque considering the block being iron and the head being aluminum and the difference in heat expansion. That was my reason for double checking at 500mi
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Post by madmatt on Nov 30, 2015 17:51:31 GMT -5
I really don't know... that's why i said "supposed to be" seems a bit of a debate around here. They certainly aren't really smaller diameter between head and thread... but who knows. I've used the same set in at least 3 head installs 1/2 turn is a fair bit! hmmm no once done, I've never had a bolt want to move at the 60ish lb mark, but I'm never positive on my torque wrench from rest. (clicky clicky ) i trust it more on a moving bolt. not saying your hg material isn't gonna ask for something, and I've rarely got 1000 miles out of a motor before it's puked bits all over the road
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Post by certimafied on Nov 30, 2015 18:15:13 GMT -5
not saying your hg material isn't gonna ask for something, and I've rarely got 1000 miles out of a motor before it's puked bits all over the road I really like the last half of that sentence lol! When I ordered those bolts I also had a thought that maybe I hadn't cleaned the threads in the block and Im getting a false torque reading. With that thought I also assumed some bolt threads would be bad too, not the case though. Well I think I should have figured out where it was coming from first but I didn't, cause I felt "hey im good like that". - Boy I hope I am. So my plan right now is make new intake gasket with better material,check my intake flange to head gasket clearance, chase the threads in the block just to be sure, go on with new HG and bolts, new carb base gaskets and then we will see if I am in fact "good like that".
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Post by earthbounding on Nov 30, 2015 19:38:53 GMT -5
88 service manual says "Tighten the cylinder head in three steps: 1st; 39 N.m (4.0 kg.m, 29 ft-Ib) 2nd; 59 N.m (6.0 kg-m, 43 ft-Ib) and third; 69 N.m (7.0 kg-m, 51 ft-Ib)." "Following a trial run, retighten cylinder head when engine has cooled down." both my intake and exhaust manifolds had heavy pitting, they had just paper and the heat shield gaskets.
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Post by certimafied on Dec 8, 2015 9:52:25 GMT -5
^^^Thanks for that info earthbounding. I somehow missed that the other times Ive visited the board.
I think I figured out the problem, When I removed my intake from my head I found the lower coolant port on the third cyl. runner had been seeping into the runner. You could see the gasket was still all wet even though it had not had water in it for a couple weeks. Im not sure if this was a bad gasket or if it was from the intake not being able to mount flush against the head or a combination of the two. So I ground the bottom edge of the intake down to gain extra clearance from the block when all assembled. I watched it going back together and it seems to be fine this time.
I dont think it was my head gasket now that I have looked at everything, though the head gasket I used did seem to be having some issues that probably would have surfaced. It seemed as though the material that the HG was made of was 'melting'. The metal in the center of the gasket was fine but the gray material ( i think its graphite not sure) was dripping into all of my coolant and oil ports very wierd.
Over all I'm glad I went a head and pulled the head and intake.
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Post by earthbounding on Dec 14, 2015 6:32:45 GMT -5
Check your intake and exhaust bolts\nuts after re torqing your headbolts, mine were loose again after my first run
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Post by certimafied on Dec 18, 2015 18:13:29 GMT -5
Same here, my Head bolts surprisingly enough didnt really "retorque" any when I checked them after a couple runs. The intake exhaust and thermostat did need some retorqueing though.
I am extremely happy to say my justy is running good not loosing oil or coolant and the transmission is even sealed up, hurray!
Now its just the worn out struts, leaking proportioning valve, and (The most common) motor mounts. Oh and mount a friggin cup holder somewhere lol!
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