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Post by wittgensteinsergeant on Jul 4, 2015 13:00:08 GMT -5
So, imagine i'm Bob Page (yes, the Deus Ex character who is the leader of MJ12, owns Page Industries, VersaLife and has past affilations with The Illuminati) and i'm a biotech magnate with WAY too much cash to burn, and that I want a fast, yet stealthy car for more coverted operations, what would I need to reliably get 140-160 HP out of the EF12 with a ECVT+4WD drivetrain, and that in a facelifted/late model Justy? (1991 4WD ECVT with EF12-MPFI in red as example)
Engine wise I was thinking of custom forged Mahle 9:2:1 CR pistons, custom Carrillo rods, MPFI with MegaSquirt as ECU, a TD04-16T turbo or maybe a 19T from a 2000 Volvo V70 R AWD, a bronze bushing in the oil pump, a Ford 1.8 Duratorq IC and a flowed head with maybe a regrind of the camshaft, a 1.75 inch exhaust, a DAMN good tune for Euro 98, and good manifolds.
Drivetrain wise: Built ECVT with strengthened Powder Clutch, push belt and a rebuild, plus a reverse-engineered TCU firmware for higher performance. (lol, ECVT chip tuning), a Quaife ATB LSD up front and a pneumatic locker in the back.
Am I doing it right?
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Post by madmatt on Jul 5, 2015 8:40:07 GMT -5
Ahhhh... Bench racing.
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Post by nipper on Jul 8, 2015 20:56:41 GMT -5
The weak spot is the CVT drums. Even if you could have a custom pusher belt made, the drums are the weak spot. I think your belt will just slip on the drums. Everything else is doable.
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Post by southerner on Jul 9, 2015 10:20:58 GMT -5
So.. i'd change te question to "how much HP can you get out of the EF12"
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Post by wittgensteinsergeant on Jul 9, 2015 11:47:27 GMT -5
So.. i'd change te question to "how much HP can you get out of the EF12" DustysJustys say about 250 on a fully-built engine, but how much of that is true is the question.
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Post by southerner on Jul 9, 2015 12:01:08 GMT -5
I meant to say "reliably get out of the EF12"
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Post by wittgensteinsergeant on Jul 9, 2015 16:21:23 GMT -5
I meant to say "reliably get out of the EF12" My guess is around 150-170 hp with the right mods, tune and fuel.
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Post by southerner on Jul 9, 2015 16:34:33 GMT -5
I really hope with all my hearth that your estimations be correct. Edit: I'd be dancing in one feet for a whole year if i can turn it on a 130 Hp daily driver.. and will be more than happy if it's 100 Hp..
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Post by Armageddous on Jul 12, 2015 2:14:02 GMT -5
250 hp!?
That's ~75HP PER HOLE. That's MORE THAN THE STOCK EF12 PRODUCES, IN EACH HOLE.
Ridiculous!
Ugh.
Terry
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Post by madmatt on Jul 12, 2015 8:37:45 GMT -5
custom crank, rods, cement the block, big turbo, fer sure it'd do 250... on the street all day long. traffic, no problem.
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Post by bizarro on Jul 12, 2015 18:37:16 GMT -5
All this talk and no one has actually done the 250 mod?
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Post by kastein on Aug 7, 2015 8:25:56 GMT -5
I would stop thinking about how much power you can get out of the motor and start worrying (a lot) about how much power you can get through the ECVT without slagging it. They aren't exactly reliable even at stock power levels. I have several Subaru dealer mechanics in my circle of friends and they all started out by telling me to avoid the ECVT like the plague when I noted I was looking for a Justy, apparently they were known for failing at 60-80k miles.
Get the ECVT bulletproof before you even think about power upgrades, IMO. Otherwise you are playing with fire... very expensive fire with rare parts required to rebuild afterwards!
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Post by southerner on Aug 7, 2015 9:56:09 GMT -5
Finally once i'm on the lucky side.. i have a manual transmission..
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Post by sp0ngebob on Aug 7, 2015 11:30:38 GMT -5
kind of an edit to this. you might be better off sourcing rods from something else that either has a beefier rod or an off hte shelf application. frankly since this is a three cylinder think about power/hole when sourcing parts. if you want 140hp out of it 140/3 = 47hp/hole. so think of a car that makes a little under 200 on the ground thats a 4cyl and maybe think about sourcing parts from that kind of car.
you'll likely be out of luck on slugs though. having only a need for 3 valve reliefs means custom application unless you can get some wacky American piston to fit or an old honda one.
a 5 speed swap a decent sized turbo and a manifold that actually flows. plus a decent management system and the strong feeling that you're going to melt a cast piston.
realistically id assume this parts list
freshly machine block (decked head and block with a fresh hone job) head work including a port match and polish on the exhaust side. multi angle valve job and if you can stuff an oversize valve in it, do it. complete rebuild including the balance shaft components. adjustable timing gear to try and dial in the cam timing. custom ground cam. high lift, decent duration and low overlap forged slugs forged rods a turbo that will run about 14 lbs with no flow issues. likely a twin scroll if you can afford it. or steal one from an old rx7. MLS head gasket at lest 440cc (DSM ones might work) injectors air to water inter-cooler so the air/air isnt hanging in the bumper plenty of charge piping and a TON of patience.
suppose you could always go with a "rear mount" turbo and stuff it up where the driveline should be if you have a 2wd. that way its kinda under the hand brake area rather than all the way in the back.
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Post by southerner on Aug 7, 2015 13:38:41 GMT -5
I'd like to open the game up a little.. If i want to turbo a carbed 1.2 that has been freshly rebuilt using OEM parts and changing as little as possible, the choking point would be retarding ignition (if i'm right). With that in mind, how much boost could i load and what kind of HP would that boost get me ?
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