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Post by coondog on May 5, 2015 21:13:57 GMT -5
Hey so I'm working the kinks out of my justy, and something has me puzzled. Usually when I take off, I get the clutch out and I on the gas and its as if it looses spark for a second and then hits fine again. Sometimes when I get into third and am on the gas at like quarter throttle, it will do the same thing. Even if I press the pedal further down, it takes a second to respond. Then its as if nothing happened. It happens every drive, but intermittently. Any suggestions? I have the check engine light on but have not retrieved the codes yet. I should probably do that first. Thanks, Connor
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Post by Armageddous on May 6, 2015 0:25:20 GMT -5
EFI or carb?
Terry
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Post by coondog on May 6, 2015 7:23:00 GMT -5
EFI. I work at a shop, and brought it here today to check the codes and such. But this is a weird problem that might take some process of elimination.
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Post by coondog on May 6, 2015 15:46:11 GMT -5
Found time today to pull the codes and came up with a cam position sensor/pickup coil code, and idle speed control solenoid valve code. I cleaned out the inside of the distributor and going to see how she does tonight. There is one solenoid that has a broken off spot, and its the one by the 4wd solenoids, with the yellow spring loaded adjuster screw coming from it. One line comes from the manifold to the solenoid, the other goes from the solenoid to who knows where, because PO broke it off. I am gonna do some digging on all data tonight and see what I come up with.
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Post by Armageddous on May 6, 2015 20:16:34 GMT -5
The cam position code is likely a bad wire between the distributor and the ECU. Ether visually inspect the wires or do resistance testing to find which wire it is.
The IAC valve is located underneath the airbox, and the main vacuum supply comes from the passenger side of the intake on a 8mm nipple. The other side of the valve runs up to the airbox.
Take a pic of the other valve you're talking about as I don't know which one it is. Sounds like it must be the idle-up solenoid, tho.
Terry
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Post by coondog on May 7, 2015 6:39:57 GMT -5
Ok cool, ya I can see a connector by the airbox that looks the same as the IAT sensor connector, but it is not plugged to anything. So Ill track that down today. I will take a pic of that broken sensor and upload a picture.
The wires look ok going from the dist to the ecu, but the connector was superglued together by the previous owner.
After work yesterday, I finally put gas in for the first time, and a full tank of 93 made it run like a dream. No missing or bogging like it was before. I am guessing the vehicle sat for a while, and the last bit of gas in the car had water, or was old. I was pretty close to empty because I added 7.9 gallons.
Thanks, Connor
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Post by coondog on May 12, 2015 11:18:05 GMT -5
I plugged the connector into the sensor below the airbox, and fixed that code, but still getting the cam sensor code. I tried cleaning the inside of the distributor, but no luck. It now idles kind of rough, and I think I am gonna take the distributor off the car to see what the deal is. It might need a better cleaning job, or a timing adjustment. We shall see.
Thanks, Connor.
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Post by coondog on May 12, 2015 20:36:30 GMT -5
Ok, so a little update on this issue.
Messed with it a bit today, and for some reason the car vibrates pretty strong at idle. Like shaking the whole car. Not like a dead misfire, but like all three cylinders are out of synch a little. I am starting to wonder if now is a good time to check out whether the timing between the crankshaft and camshaft is still lined up. I havent looked on all data to see what type of tensioner the justy motor uses, but tomorrow I'll be checking into it if I have time at work. When I purchased the car, I noticed that two bolts for the timing belt cover were missing, and I can tell the motor mount in front of the timing cover has been removed before, but who knows whats been done by the previous owner. The car only has 88,500 miles on it, but rubber timing dry rot over time. The fact that the car has progressed to the roughness of idle leads me to believe its the belt, because I have never seen a distributor lose performance progressively. The electronics are either intermittent or bad. So, I'll report back tomorrow about what I see for timing.
Thanks, Connor.
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Post by Armageddous on May 12, 2015 23:11:59 GMT -5
You don't listen so well. Check the wiring between the distributor and ECU.
If the idle is rough then put a vacuum gauge on and look for a bouncing needle to indicate a bad or poorly adjused valve.
Terry
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Post by coondog on May 28, 2015 7:18:01 GMT -5
You don't listen so well. Check the wiring between the distributor and ECU. If the idle is rough then put a vacuum gauge on and look for a bouncing needle to indicate a bad or poorly adjused valve. Terry Well, I've already checked the wiring between the dist and ecu, and took the grey 4 prong connector out of the equation. No avail. I was thinking about putting some new valve seals in on tuesday so I might have to do a valve adjustment at that time. I feel like the pickup in the distributor is just saturated with oil or something . I did end up having to drive a few hundred miles to the mountains for something, and the car did do great on the highway. I held it at 60 the whole way and was happy with how it went.
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