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Post by Vågen on Nov 6, 2014 16:45:29 GMT -5
I am excited to make my own lines, but wanted to first see if anyone has done it before, and how they sourced it.
The lines going through the strut at the front looks really lame.
I'm looking to keep stock calipers/drums, but get a bit less squish!
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Post by sp0ngebob on Nov 7, 2014 13:56:58 GMT -5
are you having a hydraulic shop make these or are you doing this yourself?
and by yourself, are you crimping the fittings onto the lines yourself or are you just adding the stainless weave on the outside?
not to be a naysayer...but a gentlemen that was part of the s2k crew passed away last year after a crash was caused by a stainless brake line detaching from the fitting. he ran off track and collided with the wall and succomed to his injuries a little while later. very sad. that being said, i would never make my own lines in any fashion.
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Post by madmatt on Nov 7, 2014 16:43:45 GMT -5
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Post by sp0ngebob on Nov 7, 2014 17:00:34 GMT -5
did you use those on the front or rear of the car and how did you get them to seal at the wheel cylinder/caliper? teflon tape?
i cant for the life of me remember if this car uses banjo bolts or compression fittings stock.
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Post by madmatt on Nov 8, 2014 1:22:38 GMT -5
Good point. My point was use generic things off the shelf. I actually used a banjo to AN for the front, then AN to metric For the rear I used AN to metric on both ends, with stubby a hard line to the actual slave cylinder, so: Rear: Stock (or like stock...) hardline with metric end. Metric-AN adapter AN hose Metric AN adapter Hardline Slave Front: hardline Adapter AN hose with banjo on one end. Best photo I could find
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Post by Vågen on Nov 10, 2014 13:31:00 GMT -5
That is exactly the kind of link I am looking for. So this is a universal application? At 24 inches, they seem much longer than the stock 2 up front/1 in back lengths.
I'm a bit confused by your last post. I'm not in a hurry to replace the lines, but I figure with 60000 miles, I'd rather use this as an opportunity to increase performance instead of just maintenance bleeding.
I'm not going to be making the lines- good point.
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Post by madmatt on Nov 11, 2014 11:37:00 GMT -5
Let me start again, I don't think I was clear... and I posted links that weren't the exact thing. I don't have the specs on what I ordered... I guess I should.
the adapters are generic. But you have to pick your specific AN size.
Then measure and pick your lengths of line from where you are going and how your are going to do it.
I'm just saying these things are available, and not too hard to put together.
The front is easy, you just need an adapter to go from metric to AN, these generally come with the clips to hold them in a mount (as you see in my picture of the front) Then you need the length from you mount to your finally joint (the banjo) I just tie wrap mine to the strut, so I think I got 14" or something and did away with the middle connection.
So you pick an AN to banjo for the front, in whatever length you need.
For the rear it's not so easy. As the slave takes a male metric fitting, so I made up (with a flare kit) a short stubby hard line. It connects to the slave on one end and then has a metric to an adapter on the other. Then I run the generic braided line in whatever length. I went to the stock mounts in the rear, I think I use 14-16" lines. Can't remember. On the hard line at the body, is another adapter for the AN line.
This is all because I had a hard time finding metric braided lines in the length I needed, for the price I wanted, with metric ends. And the AN lines are VERY common in just about any performance type shop, or of course, online.
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Post by Vågen on Apr 11, 2015 20:56:15 GMT -5
Thanks for all the help!
Here is what I bought for the front: 1. female M10x1.0 to -4 AN adapter 2. 18" stainless steel PTFE-coated -4 AN line (stock is 8.5" + 10.5") 3. -4 AN to 10mm banjo
-6 AN is closer to M10, but I couldn't find any adapters/lines.
For the rear: 1. Leave it alone. Sleep happy knowing that the brake drums suck anyway. 2. Wait for someone to offer to make them for me.
Do you think it is necessary to also replace the banjo-caliper bolts and washers?
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