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Post by dbgear on Jan 29, 2014 1:30:27 GMT -5
Hey guys, I've read a few places on here making references to shifter bushings causing a sticky shifter. I'm looking at the Parts Lookup at Dusty's Justys under "Gear Shift System". Are the bushings in question the two #38's in the photo? My shifter is not so bad yet, but I'm just looking for all the old bushings that might need replacing. Thx! www.dustysjustys.com/home.htm
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Post by indkid87 on Jan 29, 2014 8:58:22 GMT -5
I've never heard of the shifter sticking due to bad bushings. They do get pretty sloppy though. On my car I had the pin #51 rust out and then the shift lever pulled out of the socket. I replaced most of the bushings with brass, you can check my build thread to see exactly what i did. I'll have it off soon so I can get you measurements if you're interested in that route. subarujusty.proboards.com/thread/5287/rallyx-justy-revival-Dave
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Post by dbgear on Jan 29, 2014 14:55:07 GMT -5
Thanks Dave. Yeah I can't find the posts I'm referring to about the bushings. I saw your thread and would be interested in measurements. The thread I saw previously said that some shifter bushings caused 1st gear to be a little sticky and once changed resolved that. I thought it was related to user Wombatsauce, I should just ask him directly (although I think he is without a Justy now).
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Post by indkid87 on Jan 29, 2014 16:57:30 GMT -5
Yeah, I'm not sure about that. I have heard of people having problems finding gears and popping out of gears due to sloppy bushings. This seems to be a more common problem on the 2wd models. I know my 2wd 92 parts car is near impossible to find the right gear in.
-Dave
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Post by blacklight on Jan 29, 2014 18:03:52 GMT -5
Thanks Dave. Yeah I can't find the posts I'm referring to about the bushings. I saw your thread and would be interested in measurements. The thread I saw previously said that some shifter bushings caused 1st gear to be a little sticky and once changed resolved that. I thought it was related to user Wombatsauce, I should just ask him directly (although I think he is without a Justy now). I Don't know what craftsmanship skills you have, but I have access to a small multi-purpose lathe that my father has. I would use a rod of either brass or nylon in order to fabricate new bushings. Just a thought. //Magnus.
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Post by indkid87 on Feb 2, 2014 17:06:05 GMT -5
Ok, to replace the #38 bushings I drilled the bearing seats out to 1" and used two of these. www.mcmaster.com/#2938t22/=qium0pI then pressed two of these in the middle and cut off the remainder it to the correct length. www.mcmaster.com/#6391k511/=qiunm5Then I drilled out the center to fit a .5" inch bolt because i had to cut out and replace the stock bolt. I don't remember what the stock size is, but my guess would be M10. I'm also in the process of replacing the #8 bushings with brass, I'll post in my build thread once I'm done.
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Post by Mato393 on Feb 3, 2014 7:25:33 GMT -5
I think i got problem with them too... Sometimes i hhave problem to slide in 1st gear. That is dimensions of bushings on car? Is there some difference at EU and US models?
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Post by indkid87 on Feb 3, 2014 9:02:27 GMT -5
Mato393- That drawing is for the control arm bushings, not the shifter bushings.
I no longer have the stock measurements for the shifter support, maybe some else knows those dimensions. My previous post to this thread shows what I changed them to.
As for the smaller bushings in the link that runs from the shifter to the transmission I am replacing those right now. I'll post dimensions and pictures in my build thread when I'm done
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Post by Mato393 on Feb 3, 2014 12:07:47 GMT -5
JFIG330-1There is only 2 types of them... When I reading all that posts i think there is more than only 2 When you post your solution, pls can you make dimensions in metric system?
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Post by indkid87 on Feb 25, 2014 15:08:16 GMT -5
Ok, I was in a hurry and forgot to take pictures, but the rebuild and bushing specs are pretty straight forward. These are the nylon #8 bushings in the linkage from the lever to the transmission. The brass replacements i got measure: OD-13mm ID-10mm Length-10mm Flange thickness-1.5mm McMaster part- www.mcmaster.com/#5448t5/=qun1lyThey are a little short, but going from nylon to brass it won't make a difference. Awesome, Thanks for posting this very valuble info! (Gearheadeh)
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Post by Mato393 on Feb 26, 2014 9:10:14 GMT -5
Hmmm... What is OD and ID? Can you make some blueprint? pls
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Post by blacklight on Feb 26, 2014 9:28:49 GMT -5
Hmmm... What is OD and ID? Can you make some blueprint? pls Outer Diameter Inner Diameter
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Post by indkid87 on Feb 26, 2014 9:46:25 GMT -5
OD= Outside diameter ID= Inside diameter They could afford to be a bit longer and have a larger diameter for the flange, but these are the ones I could get easily and they work. I'll try to get the "ideal" specs when I have time. -Dave
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Post by indkid87 on Feb 26, 2014 19:38:23 GMT -5
Ok, the ideal specs to match the original nylon are a length of 13mm and a flange diameter of 22mm. All the other dimensions remain the same.
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Post by gasmizer91 on Apr 10, 2016 14:02:41 GMT -5
All I have to say is DAMN!!!! What a difference. I replaced the 6 bushings on the 91 4X4 5sp 3dr with using the dimensions provided and it is such an amazing difference - no more slop.
Thank you guys for posting this one up. The one thing I did do that was not mention is on the bolts that hold each shift point linkage together - 3 in total, was to take a little metal off where the threads end and the shoulder of the bolt begins. Due to my bushings being so far gone or non existent the shoulder was beat up a bit and a little mushroomed. By putting them to a grinder and taking a little meat off they went right in.
Now if you have trouble pressing in the bushings into the eye, just take a longer bolt with 2 flat washers one on the bolt head side and one on the nut side and start tightening them together. This will act like a cheap press and press the brass bushings into the eyelet whole.
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