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Post by tgb3rn on Oct 25, 2013 12:13:52 GMT -5
Hello! I have a 1990 2wd Justy with a carb but it has a manufacture date in 1989. It starts right up and drives fine but as soon as it warms up there is a clicking sound under the dash and then it dies. It will not restart until it cools down. It is not a fuel problem( I dumped a little gas right into the carb). It does not have a spark after it gets to operating temp but it does when it cools down. I am thinking the ECM under the dash or the distributer right now. Anyone ever had this before?
Thanks in advance, Tom
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Post by aichi on Nov 14, 2013 15:28:14 GMT -5
hi there, i have the same problem. i have a 93 4wd justy with the 1,2 GLI fuel injected engine. i don't have the clicking sound but when i drive 6 km and then try to start the engine again it will not start until i wait a few minutes. although it will start immediately when you push the car... and when you wait a few minutes and than the car starts finally again it wont last long until the engine dies again, when you let the engine run with idle speed. it seems that when the car reaches a certain level of temperature it will not start again on its own. I have already changed the distributor cab and the ignition cables but that did not change the situation. There is a little bit of oil in the distributor, but i think that is a common problem with justies... There could be a problem with the camshaft sensors in the distributor, but as far as i saw there is nothing such as a loose wire or a bad connection. Next time i will try to disconnect the lambda sensor and check if it is the problem... greetings aichi
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Post by Armageddous on Nov 17, 2013 0:40:34 GMT -5
They both sound like the igniter for the coil. They are effectively a large power transistor, and will stop working when they heat up. The only way to be sure is have the engine not starting and do some diagnostics. Are either of you comfortable with using a test light?
Terry
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Post by aichi on Nov 18, 2013 13:26:10 GMT -5
I have now made the test with the 2 read memory contacts under the dashboard and got the code 11 "Crank Angle Sensor" failure. i have checked the wires until the first electrical plug after the distributor, but everything was perfectly well with the wires. So i don't think the wires are the problem because also the rest of the cables are very good protected from humidity and everything is in original condition. i opened again the distributor and made a picture. Do you think its too wet? I think i've to change the shaftseal sealing and maybe the o-ring sealing... Can i dismount the distributor with the two screws at the side and change the sealings, or is it not so easy?
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Post by Armageddous on Nov 18, 2013 22:27:19 GMT -5
There should be no oil on the pickups. The seal is replaceable but not exactly simple to do so. The wires for the distributor have been known to break further down the line in the harness, you need to use an ohm meter to test the wires.
Terry
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Post by tgb3rn on Nov 21, 2013 22:31:24 GMT -5
I have already replaced the coil pack with a new one prior to the original post so....nope . What the heck kind of sensor would just make the engine die? Where is it located?
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Post by Armageddous on Nov 22, 2013 21:58:32 GMT -5
If you're positive you have no spark when the engine dies you need to chase that.
Here is the diagnostic flow chart as I see logical. You will either need an assistant or be creative to watch your tests.
- Car dies, jump out like a super hero with a test light and a spark tester. - Check for spark, if no spark, make sure key is in RUN, connect GROUND of test light to the COIL BRACKET or near it, and place the PROBE on the BLK/RED wire at the coil. If it lights, ignition switch is good and coil is powered, if not chase the circuit of fuse #12. (Likely a bad ignition switch) - If powered, connect GROUND of test light to BLK/RED wire of coil. Connect PROBE to YEL-BLU wire of coil, crank engine and watch for fluttering/pulsing test light. If pulsing, replace coil. - If not pulsing, check fuse #1 for power - If okay you will need a multimeter to proceed with more testing.
Terry
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Post by aichi on Dec 9, 2013 13:01:47 GMT -5
thanks for the help, i think my problem was the oil on the lower pickup. I "designed" a splash protection and now it works so far…but the weather has also changed to lower temperature and maybe its only the lower viscosity of the oil which helps me and my justy.
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