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Post by skprod on Jan 3, 2012 19:19:08 GMT -5
what should be the normal voltage for the brushe clutch ?? mine as 8v when engaged to D and accelerator at 2/5. The ecvt was slipping so i have put a relay that push 12v, now problem is solved, but i would like to know what's the normal voltage, thanks
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Post by nipper on Jan 7, 2012 1:27:21 GMT -5
i will look tomorrow when i can get to the FSM for you. I think you may burn the clutch out quikly using that method as the clutch voltage is varied due to conditions.
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Post by rayshush on Jan 9, 2012 3:36:15 GMT -5
I also would like to know that answer? what is the votage Thought it was a variable from speedometer but not sure why the clutch would burn up it would be off till your press on accelerator I think??
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Post by nipper on Jan 10, 2012 14:57:37 GMT -5
Ok the manual does not call out any voltage at the brushes, but calls out amperage. What it does say is that the clutch is controlled by amps, not volts, so there is amperage specs. The power to the clutch comes right from the ECVT CU. You can control amperage by controlling voltage (VxA=W) or by controlling amps themselves, voltage is easier and cheaper. The clutch is speced at 31.1 watts.
Some specs it gives (they actually show a curve) Gas pedal released 0.5 - 1.9 A gas pedal slightly pressed 2.2A gas pedal "press heavily" 3.3A
The FSM uses 12 volts as the as the charging spec.
The trouble tree in the FSM really is not helpful. I am going to rule out all the mechanical stuff by your description for the sake of argument and stick with the electrical.
Engine races while driving : Selecter cable linkage Brush holder Accelerator switch, throttle position switch (i like that one as a possible) P R N D Ds selector switches.
What happens on deceleration? What happens in Ds, does it have the same issues?
AFter those things start getting ugly, like a bad clutch etc but somehow i think this may be a signal issue then a mechanical. Unfortunitly a slipping is not listed anywhere in the trouble charts.
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dogoman
A Boxer engine will fit in a Justy, its called a WRX
Posts: 445
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Post by dogoman on Jan 10, 2012 20:51:58 GMT -5
the reason the clutch gets more amps as the pedal is pressed is so it "bites" the same as the power goes on so it doesn't slip. If its slipping, its stuffed....just jumpering "12 V across it" will do nothing but kill the clutch solenoid due to excess current and over heating, then both the clutch and the clutch solenoid will be shot, which is more $$$$ to fix.
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Post by nipper on Jan 11, 2012 12:39:00 GMT -5
Where is the clutch solenoid? I did not see it called out on the FSM anywhere. All the wiring diagrams show direct line from the brushes to the control unit.
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dogoman
A Boxer engine will fit in a Justy, its called a WRX
Posts: 445
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Post by dogoman on Jan 11, 2012 18:53:58 GMT -5
the clutch is the bit the brushes supply power to is it not? or am i thinking of something else?
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Post by nipper on Jan 11, 2012 19:02:19 GMT -5
The brushes to the clutch feed directly form the computer for the CVT.
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Post by nipper on Jan 11, 2012 19:17:30 GMT -5
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Post by skprod on Jan 12, 2012 18:24:07 GMT -5
thanks nipper for helping me,
when i decelerate, the rpm show that the clutch is engaged. it disengage at about 15km/h when i dont touch the gaz.
The first switch seems to push some amperage, but not enough to make the car go forward.
The Ds work fine. With my bypass relay , everything is working okay. The only bad side is when i move from 0 to 5 km/h, the clutch is a bit agressive. I feel like if i have a racing clutch/pressure plate ;P
How ever, since everything is controlled by the tcm, it may be defective . I will test the amperage tomorrow.
Thanks again
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Post by nipper on Jan 12, 2012 19:00:19 GMT -5
I am going away for the weekend. If you need more info on monday email me at nipper.dawg@gmail.com. Then I will scan more pages on diagnostics and put them here. Since it works in Ds (i am still learning how this engineering curiosity works ) i say that everything works, just for some reason it doesnt work in D. What happens if you start off in Ds the upshift to D
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Post by skprod on Jan 12, 2012 19:41:44 GMT -5
both work, D and Ds are working. the only trouble is the voltage/amp to the brush.. or a coming broken magnetic clutch.. so the relay extend a bit is life.. i think
btw: i just put a stight-pipe exhaust, decated, with a little cat-back..
the two catalyser was blocked.. now i released more power, the clutch doesnt like it at all, it started to slip again when i full trottle.
Thanks
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Post by skprod on Jan 12, 2012 21:16:47 GMT -5
i fixed the problem again.. my relay was pushing 12v from battery to the positive of the brush, but the tcm is also controlling the ground. By disconnecting completly the ecu, and connecting ground of brush to ground of battery, when i push trottle, my relay active the positive to the brush. This way it work, no slipping even full trottle at 5000rpm. Very happy there a lot of snow here, a lot of fun. =)
The tcm push voltage according to km/h, and trottle switch. Maybe tcm don't know the véhicule speed, so it make the clutch semi-engaged all the time.
I guess the ecu is shooting gradually voltage until the car start to move. By pushing direct 12v, the clutch act like a racing clutch. however, it work.
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Post by nipper on Jan 15, 2012 22:56:24 GMT -5
Its not the ECU it is the ECVT unit. It just uses amperege like a clutch pedal. To slip the clutch it uses some amps, to fully enggage it uses 3 amps. It needs an input from the spedo (electrical) to know vehicle speed. it sounds like your VSS in the spedo may have died.
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