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Post by Captain Nemo on Sept 5, 2011 5:01:04 GMT -5
Ok, so the body is stripped out and up on the chassis cradle. Removing the glass made for some interesting ventilation holes thanks to rust, but all are reparable without to much effort, and most places are not obviously visible so am not worried about the finish to much. I'm working on getting photos up for anyone interested, seeing how I am getting around water-tighting the front half shafts should be worth a look. Unfortunately since there is a first flotation trial set for the end of October, things that don't need to look pretty, don't look pretty. The unpainted chassis jig for instance. Maybe later...
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Post by Captain Nemo on Sept 18, 2011 0:24:28 GMT -5
Okay, so the picture uploads are having to take a low priority due to other things, but here is a sneak peek. The position of the jet unit as seen, the frame is just an outline, the final frame will be 1 1/2" exhaust tube to give a radius to the hull edges, this height also only gives 4" ground clearance which isn't great, so am going to raise it by 2 inches. Attachments:
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Post by Captain Nemo on Oct 29, 2011 4:34:01 GMT -5
After a lot of the rest of life getting in the way, and waiting for the legal inspector to ok the rear cross member chop, the jet unit is finaly in. Rear hull framing starts in the morning Finaly Attachments:
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Post by therealjoel on Oct 30, 2011 2:14:33 GMT -5
absolutly amazing. i have had the idea to make my 93 justy amphibious for a couple of weeks now! keep up the work man and keep up with the pics. mybe when shes ready you could throw a vid on the youtube and what not. sick
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Post by Captain Nemo on Nov 4, 2011 5:04:50 GMT -5
Thanks mate ;D If you are thinking of it yourself then you should be able to get the jet unit easy enough. It's a Berkeley 6J type, which hasn't been made for 15 years but they are American and you still find them in Ebay. I got that one out of Florida for US$150 and it's never been in the water, came out of a demo boat at a boat builders, demo as in sat in a showroom on a trailer. In hindsight I would spend a little extra and mount a 750cc ish motorbike motor in the back to drive it. Better still would be a stern drive set up and use a prop. Much shorter if you want to fold it up out of the way. Using a motor in the back and a side swing down prop would also allow either a higher hull for more ground clearance (mine will be 4-5 inchs only) or 4wheel drive. The real problem is sealing the front axles..... Anyway, have the main components for the back end done... With enough room to upgrade to 13"wheels for a little more ground clearance and flotation. Control rods for the steering and reverse thrust cap need to be remade due to the limited room.
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Post by Captain Nemo on Nov 23, 2011 12:22:29 GMT -5
Stripped the ef12 engine that'll be powering this car last night.....hmmmm, think I'm going to be buying alot of parts when in the states next month, since dealers here are total rip off agents. Big ends through to copper, oil pump chain guide shot. Need the thicker rempacement since the chain is loose/old. all the seals. Pistons are good though, serprisingly, will be measuring everything up tonight to see if it's been rebored since there are still hone marks in the bores. The oil that came out of it (the engine was in the pile of spare parts I inherited) was so black I couldn't see the oil container colour through it after 10 minutes draining into the waste oil drum. Oh, new oil pump to get too, and possably housing.
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jdmjosh
87 Celica GTS, 84 Jetta GTi, 93 Justy AWD, 93 New Yorker 5th Ave, 52 Mercury 1 Ton.
Posts: 73
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Post by jdmjosh on Jan 2, 2012 17:52:30 GMT -5
GOOD GRIEF THAT'S FREAKIN AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!
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dogoman
A Boxer engine will fit in a Justy, its called a WRX
Posts: 445
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Post by dogoman on Jan 2, 2012 19:18:51 GMT -5
Stripped the ef12 engine that'll be powering this car last night.....hmmmm, think I'm going to be buying alot of parts when in the states next month, since dealers here are total rip off agents. Big ends through to copper, oil pump chain guide shot. Need the thicker rempacement since the chain is loose/old. all the seals. Pistons are good though, serprisingly, will be measuring everything up tonight to see if it's been rebored since there are still hone marks in the bores. The oil that came out of it (the engine was in the pile of spare parts I inherited) was so black I couldn't see the oil container colour through it after 10 minutes draining into the waste oil drum. Oh, new oil pump to get too, and possably housing. which end of nz you in? the stable end or the shakey end? I have a few contacts on parts that you might be interested in.
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Post by Captain Nemo on Jan 5, 2012 6:44:51 GMT -5
[quote author=dogoman board=talk thread=4195 post=27770 time=1325549931which end of nz you in? the stable end or the shakey end? I have a few contacts on parts that you might be interested in.[/quote]
I'm in Auckland, and any hidden parts are good to find. Have susspension bits gallore if you need any. 3 FWD trans as well.
Need a 4WD rear drive shaft for the spare car too.
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Post by Captain Nemo on Jan 5, 2012 6:46:34 GMT -5
GOOD GRIEF THAT'S FREAKIN AWESOME!!!!!!!!!! Cheers, mate. ;D
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Post by Captain Nemo on Feb 20, 2012 4:41:43 GMT -5
Update.
After a long struggle to get the motivation flowing again after the month in Texas, I went out to have a look at the sealing of the front axle problem and nearly dumped the whole thing to start looking for a VW to do. MUCH easier. But then I went for a wander around the local parts store and let the inspiration come. So now I have a fix, it'll mean machining the CV boot lands off one end of the half shaft and sweating a seal surface sleeve in it's place, but about 100mm long, this will seat two bearings and two seals in an outer cylindrical housing, which has a tie rod fixed to the body as a rotational stay. Then a Neoprene CV boot from something large from the body to the housing to seal the gap. Why sweat a sleeve on the axle shaft? Mainly it's easier to build the shaft to meet bearing and seal sizes and safer than machining the shaft down more to match them. Also any wear from the seals wont weaken the shaft either. A drive train engineer I know is working out the right gear sets for the jet drive gearbox and should be done in a week or so, then I can start to make the box. Oh, I found a place that does a carb repair kit for the Justy, and it says that the EF10 and EF12 use the same carb and they cite the same kit for both, can anyone verify this? Is the jetting the same?
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Post by hollandjusty on Feb 20, 2012 11:52:50 GMT -5
Different carbs: EF10: 26/30 EF12: 28/32
good luck!
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dogoman
A Boxer engine will fit in a Justy, its called a WRX
Posts: 445
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Post by dogoman on Feb 20, 2012 23:23:33 GMT -5
carb kit will be the same when it comes to gaskets, not sure on jet sizes tho...
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Post by Captain Nemo on Feb 20, 2012 23:44:03 GMT -5
Awesome. Now I have to find a EF12 NON computer carb. This'll be fun.
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dogoman
A Boxer engine will fit in a Justy, its called a WRX
Posts: 445
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Post by dogoman on Feb 21, 2012 4:04:04 GMT -5
just fit a 2 barrel webber off a 1600 mk 4 cortina and jet it down, they are 32/38 bore and run 1000 to 2000 cc engines quite happily
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Post by hollandjusty on Feb 21, 2012 15:46:13 GMT -5
carb kit will be the same when it comes to gaskets, not sure on jet sizes tho... Also (some) different jet sizes.
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Post by Captain Nemo on Feb 23, 2012 4:24:58 GMT -5
Find a carb off a 1600 cortina.........
Might have to visit the south Island for that relic. Parts World web site says there is a complete EF12 near buy, but on ringing, the guy sounded doubtful. Probably holding a mooring buoy in place by now. The search continues.
Have bearings and seals ordered for the half shaft seal housings. I'll start machining in a few days.
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dogoman
A Boxer engine will fit in a Justy, its called a WRX
Posts: 445
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Post by dogoman on Feb 23, 2012 23:11:14 GMT -5
would it not have been easier to strap a justy between 2 jetskis? just wind the windows down, and a couple of 4 x 2's across the seats of the jetskis and thru the windows... <ducks and runs away very fast>
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Post by Captain Nemo on Feb 24, 2012 4:37:33 GMT -5
Yes
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Post by Captain Nemo on Mar 30, 2012 4:34:31 GMT -5
Latest efforts have been towards getting the '84 4dr on the front lawn back on the road, since it uses half the gas that my twin turbo legacy uses, so thats taken some time off the Justy Boyant'. But not all of it So far.... Most of my time has been in sourcing gears for the custom gear box necessary to get the jet drive back up to engine speed, from the rear drive shafts 4.1/1 (roughly) reduction in first gear. A gear manufacturer was found, and a CHEAPEST quote of 6-700 PER gear was squeezed from him. I need 4 such gears. After adding that cost to strong bearings, materials and time to make the casing and shafts etc. I was looking at close to $3000 minimum to do it even vaguely properly, and when you are floating out in the harbour you want your propulsion done properly. So, after about 5 minutes thought I figured I could drop a bike motor and silent chain in for less than that, which would also solve a few other problems on the way. I thought about a jet ski motor, but they aren't what you'd call efficient or in fact, cheap. So 5-600cc twin 4 stroke bike with all electrics and pipes it is. Run keel cooling to cut weight. Problems solved - I can now run a FWD gearbox which means less weight up front, no drive shaft or custom gearbox is also less weight. Bike motor will have it's gearbox cut off, reducing weight to about that of the weight saved above, this means a movement of bad front weight to the back where it needs to be. Front wheels no longer turning in the water since the gearbox no longer has to drive the jet unit. Stationary axles makes for better sealing, and also doesn't look as stupid. No tail on the gearbox means easier engine removal by a LONG way, just lifts straight up. This means no hatch in the bash plate to be able to drop the cross member, Just two small holes for the engine mount nuts, which will have plates welded over them, and just grind off if needed. No drive shaft means more room between the hull and floor pan to run exhaust or other stuff. I have also found that if you shorted the end of the extension shaft of the gen 2's half shaft extension, you can fit a gen 1 inner CV on it and run all gen 1 stuff, just using two short side axles. Before you ask why I wouldn't just run gen 2 gear, two reasons. 1- I have a ton of gen 1 spares and don't want to pay for unnecessary gen 2 stuff. 2- I don't want to run vented rotors, the salt dries in the vents and every time it thinks of rain or damp eats the rotors from the inside out. Just ask any boaty who drops the back wheels of his late model anything in the sea water. I'm sticking with the Gen 1's solid rotors. I've started machining the seal units for the front axles, so will have finished pics up in a week or 2. Oh yeah. The half shaft extension I got from a breakers yard had good joints throughout, but the internal spline on the shaft itself was shot, the square shaped teeth were all needle shaped. I was quoted just under $1000 by Subaru dealers here. Dusty Justy's will get one in for US$175.58 and have it in about 2 weeks. Just for those with Gen2's that check their CV's, but not the Diff shaft to half shaft extension joint.
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