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Post by malamute on Sept 26, 2005 15:53:22 GMT -5
I love my Justy, but I am at my wits end. It gets me up and down the road but does have issues. I believe I have tried everything, yet these problems linger. The problems are as follows:
1. The car idles WAY high on startup - like 3000 rpm this continues until warm-up. 2. The car never idles. After warm-up the engine goes between 1800 and 2200 rpm. About 30 cycles a minute. 3. The fan never turns on. 4. At extended highway runs above 75 mph the temperature climbs right to the first H tick on the gauge. Never higher than that. 5. No check engine lights. Ever.
Car: 1991 4wd EFI w/AC
I have changed thermoswitches, thermostats, radiators. I would get rid of it, but it runs all the time, just not well. Any advice would be appreciated.
Matthew
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Post by Justy4x4 on Sept 27, 2005 9:27:14 GMT -5
Look for large vacuum leaks. That can cause the idle to stay very high. You'll probably need to get the idle down to where it belongs before you can start to diagnose the overheating issue. Have you checked for any codes from the ECU?
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Post by SUBIEJIM on Sept 27, 2005 10:59:28 GMT -5
Like 4X4 Justy mentioned, check for vacuum leaks. EFI cars are real sensitive to unmetered air entering the engine (High idle when cold and a hunting idle when the system goes into closed loop at operating temp) Things to check: Intake manifold to head gasket. Intake manifold to plenum gasket. Throttle body to plenum gasket. All vac hoses and screw in sensors attached to the manifold and plenum. I will bet you will find a hose loose or cracked. As to the engine running hot and the fan not coming on: Since you have already replaced the thermo sensor, thermostat, and radiator. I would make a pair of jumper wires and disconnect the connector at the fan, then jumper from the 2 wire fan motor connector to the pos and neg battery terminals. If the fan works, you know the trouble is either in the wiring or the cooling fan relay under the dash. If the fan does not work when you wire it hot to the battery the fan motor is shot! Hope you get your Justy running good!! Keep us posted and don't give up on her!!! Jim
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Post by malamute on Sept 27, 2005 19:54:15 GMT -5
I fear what you say is true, that it is a vacuum leak. From a hose I can't see, like the back of the engine. I got this Justy on a salvage title from a guy who had it sitting in a field. It had been sitting out in the field for a couple of years after it had been hit by a deer. The radiator, AC condenser, and other related items were gone from the car when I bought it. I have alway suspected that I had a family of mice or bees make their home inside the coolant passages. Now their collective remains are plugging up my engine in critical places.
How many vacuum lines are there for the AC system? And are there any vacuum lines located in the back of the engine compartment.
Don't worry about me getting rid of my Justy anytime soon, it just won't happen with gas being 3 bucks a gallon. I save 200 bucks a month not driving my Rover. Yes, a Justy and a Land Rover. Sometimes you just need low gear!
And if you know of a 3-door 91-94 rolling shell (bad engine, and trans) down in NC, just let me know. Then all I have to do is find a WRX front and rear suspension and I will have myself a project!
Matthew
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Post by SUBIEJIM on Sept 27, 2005 23:46:20 GMT -5
I just pulled an EFI engine out of a wrecked 93 Justy 3dr FWD with a 5 speed and put it in a 90 Justy 5dr 4WD with an ECVT. All went well with the swap. Now..As I recall the A/C system only had one vac hose coming from the plenum to an idle compensator valve that is bolted to the firewall and then a hose from the valve to the air box. There are no other vac lines associated with the A/C. The EFI Justys don't have a lot of vac lines. I'm thinking like maybe 12 total. So, it's not like a carbed 87 Honda Civic with over 100 vac hoses to check. If you take your time and be patient a through inspection will probably reveal the culprit. If you are seriously looking for a project, the above mentioned 93 Justy would make a great shell for a WRX swap. I bought the car at a salvage auction and drove the car around my yard before I pulled the engine. It has 94,000 mi on the body. Damage description......It was hit in the left front about 12" behind the bumper cover. It needs a front bumper assembly, left front fender, and I believe a steering rack as the left front wheel is towed in. The left side inner fender near the battery also needs some work as well as the radiator support on that side. The rest of shell is rust free and in nice shape. If you PM me with an e-mail address I can send you some pics if you are interested. Let me know, Jim
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Post by baron on Sept 28, 2005 7:54:01 GMT -5
i dotn know about the cooling, but the idle can be adjusted by fiddling with the throttle cable up on the linkage on the engine. my mate decided he could fiddle with my car one day while i was underneath, and i had to work it out as it was hanging at 2k rpm, and when driving it was a little odd when pulling up to the lights and still revving between gear changes!!
funny really, the last time someone fiddled with my car i was unaware, i was getting the spare tyre out the back to find my brother holding my HT leads in his hand. he then said "oops". the git, we were miles from anywhere...and why was he at the engine anyway when all i had was a flat tyre! ;D ;D
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Post by malamute on Oct 3, 2005 21:10:57 GMT -5
I have spent some good quality time with my vacuum lines tonight, but no leaks. It still smells full rich so I will go back to checking sensors again. You think it would spit out at least one trouble code to me, but that's OK. With my Rover I get check engine lights for no apparent reason. Back to my manuals!
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