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Post by zach on Mar 1, 2010 11:44:33 GMT -5
I got my 90 justy running. Just replaced the bad battery and made sure the oil was still good. It turned right over and started up. Then I got a CEL.
I checked it and it was code 13..
13 Cam Position Sensor or Circuit (TDC Sensor on Justy)
Apparently even the dealer can't find this part. WTF. They think they have a revolution sensor or something for $200 that mounts to the outside of the valve cover? wtf?
I haven't taken off the valve cover yet to see if there is some sort of hall effect sensor that reads a 36-1 or whatever wheel.
Is there even this? Idle is terribly rough and throttle response is iffy at best.
PS, I got this for free-fifty and it's been sitting for about a year. Can't believe she started right the eff up and drove around the block!
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Post by RedRooJusty on Mar 1, 2010 12:29:21 GMT -5
**zach**, welcome to this forum . The TDC sensor is incorporated into the distributor, most sources of code #13 error are on the first connector from the distributor. It seems to be a common story to have a wire broken at the connector, or a connector pin recessed and or corroded. Specifically check the green and white wires from the distributor. -hope this helps -RRJ
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Post by zach on Mar 1, 2010 13:11:43 GMT -5
Awesome...thanks! Hopefully this will fix my problem. The disty is quite ratty/oily so that wouldn't surprise me. I'll dust it off with some brake clean and post results. Thank you for the tip and thanks for the welcome. Also, this would explain why dealers don't list a part for it...it's part of the distributor
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Post by zach on Mar 4, 2010 12:55:34 GMT -5
Checked the wiring...this is what was up the chain before the bundle :unamused: There were these butt connectors then wrapped in the tape just above that were crappy solder connections with melted wiring. So looks like I'm going to be taking a piece of loom and rewiring. FUN STUFF RRJ - Also not finding the first connector. From the disty it looks like it goes straight to the loom. Seems that this is where it got cut out of the harness?
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Post by RedRooJusty on Mar 4, 2010 18:14:12 GMT -5
Looks as if the previous owner cut the distributor connector out completely. The wire colors should be easy, just assure that wire colors match at the splices. It looks from your picture that the black and green wires may be reversed. The green wire is definately part of the TDC circuit. There seems to be two white wires there as well ? -RRJ
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Post by zach on Mar 5, 2010 14:27:59 GMT -5
Yeah...shits confusing. Thanks. Is there a pdf of the wiring diagram available anywhere?
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Post by RedRooJusty on Mar 5, 2010 21:06:38 GMT -5
The four wires from the distributor should stay the same color all the way through the harness to the ECU. The schematic does not show the distributor harness connector or the firewall connector that these wires go through. -RRJ
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Post by zach on Mar 6, 2010 11:53:24 GMT -5
werd...thanks a bunch!!! I should almost megasquirt this bitch :lol:
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Post by zach on Mar 26, 2010 21:56:26 GMT -5
Alright I finally got around to rewiring the disty. Shit didn't fix it.
Now after driving around for a while the bitch won't turn over. It's acting like the clutch safety switch is not releasing.
I pulled down a little bit on the Dx wires, popped off the green connector, cussed then it wouldn't start.
I messed with the wires with the clutch pressed down and key in start position but no firing.
The starter isn't even firing. Any suggestions? Can I just cut the wire on the switch?
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Post by zach on Mar 27, 2010 10:18:09 GMT -5
Unplugged the neutral safety switch, no go. Had the starter tested today, it's OK. I'm stumped. Can't be the starter ignition switch because there would've been signs. I did however loosen up the harness there was a blue plug that looks like it needs to plug in somewhere, but wasn't. I wonder when I pulled down on the wiring if this came loose like the back of the ignition switch did last night...hmmm
going to dive some more, but all of the wiring looks sound so far...
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Post by zach on Mar 27, 2010 11:24:24 GMT -5
Well I found what it was...and how the F#CK you're supposed to get to it I'll never know because my dick fingers can't get there...but the damn starter relay is where that big blue plug is for Thankfully Rockauto usually has the correct parts listed with pictures so I could find it...lol Wish me luck plugging it back in!!! This still doesn't change the fact that I still need to get the CEL gone. Do I connect the green+black connectors to get rid of the code or black+black and green+green? I did both and the cell flashed at me four times then gave me a code 13 again after my rewiring work.
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Post by RedRooJusty on Mar 27, 2010 21:18:26 GMT -5
Clearing Codes
Codes will only clear when the faulty system or circuit has been repaired. After making the repairs, codes can be cleared by connecting 2 pairs of connectors, the "Self-diagnostic" (green) connectors and the "Read Memory" (black) connectors that are usually to the right of the diagnostic connectors.
* Start with a warmed up engine * Turn off the engine * Connect black to the green * Start the engine * This should clear the codes. * Turn off the engine * Disconnect both pairs of connectors to return to normal operation
-RRJ
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Post by zach on Mar 27, 2010 21:23:56 GMT -5
Well after reconnecting everything it doesn't come on. In fact, the CEL doesn't even light up at all anymore. Should I be worried about that? I adjusted the timing and idle by sound and the engine has lots of pep now and comes alive after 4k rpms. I unplugged basically everything under the dash and checked continuity tracing everything to the starter solenoid, plugged everything back in, reinstalled the battery and everything was fine after that. I know I'm rambling...this thread can be closed now LOL I'm still having an issue when I first press the pedal there is some hesitation, but then after 1.5k it picks right up and is smooth. Is this normal for this engine? Please keep in mind this car sat for over about a year. I've yet to check the plugs. The wires look to be in good shape and the oil is alright. The coolant looks like it has some caca in it, so I'll need to do a flush.
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Post by RedRooJusty on Mar 28, 2010 10:21:13 GMT -5
When you repair a fault condition, the CEL will go out on it's own. I am just too impatient to wait. When you get a chance re-time your engine with a timing light (follow the emissions tag on the underside of your hood), this should smooth out the engine, give the most available power, and peak efficiency. -RRJ
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Post by zach on Mar 29, 2010 12:46:55 GMT -5
Thanks. I'll get a timing light from a friend of mine see how close I was
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