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Post by JLantz on Jun 19, 2004 15:54:16 GMT -5
I've got to replace the rod bearings, so while I'm in there I want renew the balancer chain assembly in hopes this will be the last installment of my ongoing noise problem. I don't have an exploded diagram of the engine so.....
1st question: Is there a tensioner unit? I've read posts that say there is one and posts that says there isn't one. If there is, what design is it, meaning is it a roller/gear or rub plate?
--From this question on, I am assuming there is a tensioner--
2nd question: When you guys have fixed this chain issue did you replace the tensioner?
3rd question: Can you install the chain, with the engine in the car, without loosening or removing the main bearing caps?
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Post by JLantz on Jun 21, 2004 19:12:18 GMT -5
Any thoughts?
Sidewayz, JRacer?
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Post by Justy4x4 on Jun 21, 2004 21:45:47 GMT -5
The balancer chain has a plastic covered guide that keeps it in place. It does wear down and should be replaced with the chain. There is NO tensioner of any kind. The guide isn't even adjustable. With a new chain and guide, the slack in the chain should be correct. The crankshaft does need to be lowered so you will need to remove the main bearing caps. It's a good idea to replace those bearings as well while you're in their!
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Post by JLantz on Jun 22, 2004 12:25:14 GMT -5
To lower the crankshaft, does the engine have to be separated from the transaxle?
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Post by Justy4x4 on Jun 22, 2004 13:24:34 GMT -5
I believe the engine can stay attached to the tranny as long as it's a 5 speed. The crank only needs to be dropped down a little on the crank pulley end. The clutch disk should be able to flex enough to allow this. This can't be done with the ECVT auto because the trannies oil pump shaft would be bent.
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Post by JLantz on Jun 22, 2004 15:46:51 GMT -5
Thanks 4x4. I called Subaru to get a price on the rod bearings, balancer chain, and the guide. The chain and guide are $88 each, and they want $27 for each half of EACH rod bearing! They stock 2 different guides; 1 labeled WHITE, and the other BLUE. What does this mean? I've also seen the main bearings labeled BLACK and GREEN. The Subaru guy didn't have a clue. My local auto parts stores can't get the chain or guide. I found the rod bearing kit online. I want to push this car off a cliff.
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Post by Justy4x4 on Jun 22, 2004 21:28:08 GMT -5
I remember the chain and guide being quite expensive, but not quite that bad! I got mine through a local Bumper to Bumper store. The parts guy had to make some phone calls to locate the items though. The different color guides had to do with adjusting the chain slack. The aftermarket guides are a one size fits all and work great with a new chain. The rod and main bearings I ordered through NAPA and were WAY less then the amount you got quoted. They're still a lot of $$$ for you get! You might want to contact partsdinosaur2@earthlink.net and ask for a list of Justy parts and prices. I bought my engine gaskets through him and they were cheaper than anywhere else. Super fast shipping and good quality too!!! The website is: www.store.partsdinosaur.com/index.html He doesn't list any Justy parts on his site as of yet, so just ask.
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Post by JLantz on Jun 23, 2004 12:55:57 GMT -5
I finally found the parts at Baxters in a near by town. $21 for the chain, $68 for the guide, $37 for the rod bearings. I'm not going to do the mains at this point due to budget restrictions. Thanks for the advice 4X4.
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Post by JLantz on Jun 26, 2004 21:40:18 GMT -5
Alright, I'm in the middle of this project, I've decided to replace the mains after all, but.........
What do you do about the #4 (rear of engine) main bearing cap? The cap is also part of the rear of the crankcase and supports the rear main seal.
So, what? What have been your experiences with this?
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Post by Justyracer on Jun 27, 2004 18:13:32 GMT -5
i remooved it....but i was working whit the engine out of the car...
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Post by JLantz on Jun 30, 2004 1:09:04 GMT -5
This job is finished.
Balancer chain and guide were replaced with the engine in the car by loosening main bearing caps and PRYing* crankshaft downward. #4 main bearing cap also contains rear main seal and is impossible to remove without complete disassembly of engine. All rod bearings were replaced easily, as were the #1-3 mains. #4 main was not replaced.
*I really did have to PRY the crankshaft down, using a 3ft stick passed through the crankshaft pulley bolt access hole in the right fender. This point was used as the fulcrum. I was pretty uncomfortable about this, thinking about damage I was possibly inflicting to the #4 bearing, the rear main seal, and the input shaft of the transaxle, but I'm not able or prepared to remove the engine and do a proper rebuild at this time, so this will have to do.
The engine is quiet now, and smoother feeling. No bearing noise made at start up.
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