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Post by JLantz on Apr 3, 2004 19:31:07 GMT -5
First off, this is my 1st car to ever have fuel injection and electronic engine control, so I am going to ask some questions that might seem ridiculous to you, but will help me grasp this system.
So, to read trouble codes, I need some sort of code reader, right? Aren't these readers very expensive? My Chilton manual says the codes are displayed by the "MIL" flashing and the duration of the flash determines the digit. OK, but what is the MIL?
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Post by Justy4x4 on Apr 3, 2004 21:09:29 GMT -5
No such thing as a ridiculous question here. We all have to start somewhere! MIL stands for "malfunction indicator lamp". Just another name for the check engine light. You don't need a scan tool to access the trouble codes stored in the PCM (computer). To read the codes you need to look under the dash to the left of the steering column for two black connectors that will plug into each other. They should just be hanging their, but they might be shoved up into the mess of wires under their. There will also be a pair of green connectors hanging near them as well. Plug in the black connectors first and turn on the key which will extract previous trouble codes. Count the number of flashes of the check engine light. A long flash (1.2 sec) indicates a 10, a short flash (0.2 sec) indcates a 1. So if you have two long flashes followed by six short flashes, 10+10+6 = 26. It will flash through all the trouble codes (if any) and then repeat them. Record these and turn off the key when done. Then disconnect the black plugs and connect the two green plugs and turn on the key again. This will check the entire EFI system for any current faulty parts and display the codes in the same manner. Connecting both sets of plugs and turning on the key is suppose to clear the codes, but unhooking the battery for several seconds does the same thing. If you post any codes your car may have I can tell you what they mean. I hope this wasn't too unbearable to read ;D First off, this is my 1st car to ever have fuel injection and electronic engine control, so I am going to ask some questions that might seem ridiculous to you, but will help me grasp this system. So, to read trouble codes, I need some sort of code reader, right? Aren't these readers very expensive? My Chilton manual says the codes are displayed by the "MIL" flashing and the duration of the flash determines the digit. OK, but what is the MIL?
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Post by JLantz on Apr 3, 2004 22:44:54 GMT -5
No that wasn't difficult at all. I've seen the connectors down there and I'll perform the checks tomorrow. Just as a reference, my main problem now is poor fuel economy(aside from the supposed valve lash noise problem I'm currently messing with), we'll see how the diagnostic goes.
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Post by Justy4x4 on Apr 3, 2004 22:53:10 GMT -5
Just out of curiousity, what kind of fuel milage are you getting? I've been getting only 24 to 29mpg with my '91 5 speed 4wd. My buddies '90 ECVT 4wd gets about the same as well. I haven't had a chance to go through all the fuel injection stuff yet to look for problems. I suspect the O2 sensor may be getting weak. Anyone else have any thoughts?
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Post by JLantz on Apr 4, 2004 15:07:29 GMT -5
My old F-150 gets around 13 mpg and I usually have to fill it twice a week for my commute. I've had the Justy for 2 weeks now and I've had to fill it twice, so the mileage is all right, just not the 30-40 mpg I expect this car to achieve. I pulled the codes this morning and found code 13- the CMP sensor. That would make sense because I had pulled the distributor earlier trying to determine the cause of the noise issue I'm having. So I cleaned the connector with spray electronics cleaner, reset the module, and got the OK .5 sec flash. When I pulled the EFI codes I got 3 of the .2 second flashes. There is no "3" code in my manual. The flash wasn't the .5 sec OK I got from the PCM test. What's up? By the way, I pulled the codes with the engine NOT running, this is correct, right? Would a improperly functioning O2S make the mixture rich? My Justy is running rich (carbon fouled plugs, soot at the exhaust outlet) maybe that's why. When I pulled the trouble codes, there was no indication of O2S problems. In my manual it says the O2S LED will blink when the engine is running, indicating proper operation, but I don't see any LED's on the module.
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Post by Justy4x4 on Apr 4, 2004 19:40:47 GMT -5
Hmmm... it seems as though I left out some important info on checking codes. Sorry, it's been awhile The engine needs to be warmed up before doing the system check (green connectors). With the key off, connect the green plugs and then turn on the key. The light flashing 3 times rapidly is the vehicle specification code. Code 3 is for 4WD/Manual Tranny. With the key still on, press the throttle pedal to the floor and slowly release, then start the engine. Turn on the rear defogger, headlights, and heater fan. Drive the car at least 7mph and operate the engine above 2000 RPM for at least a minute. The check engine light will either flash any trouble codes, or it will display the "OK" blink pattern. The memory clear function works the same way except both the green and the black connectors are plugged in. I find it easier to simply unhook the battery. Hope this clears things up!
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Post by Neuspeed94 on Apr 4, 2004 20:44:40 GMT -5
With your justy you should be getting around 37 mpg in the city and 40+ on the highway.
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Post by Justy4x4 on Apr 4, 2004 20:56:13 GMT -5
37- 40mpg may be true for the 2WD Justy's, but I'm pretty sure the 4WD's were rated at slightly less. Extra rolling resistance would be the main cause. With your justy you should be getting around 37 mpg in the city and 40+ on the highway.
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Post by JLantz on Apr 5, 2004 18:23:03 GMT -5
Ok, I pulled the EFI codes when the engine was running; 43, 62, and 63.
43= TP sensor- W+B6OT. What is W+B6OT? 62= Electrical load signal. 63= Blower fan switch.
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Post by Justy4x4 on Apr 5, 2004 19:47:11 GMT -5
Code 43 indicates a bad throttle position sensor. You could try swapping it with another used one. As for the other two codes, did you remember to switch on the headlights and heater fan? These should be in the off position before starting the test and switched on after starting the engine.
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Post by Justyracer on Apr 5, 2004 21:03:57 GMT -5
this is VERY interesting....
I have nerver finish any rally whitout the check engine ligth going on like a cristmass tree LOL...
i will now be able to know what shee is triying to tell us hahaha.
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Post by JLantz on Apr 6, 2004 0:52:11 GMT -5
Oh man, I totally forgot to turn on the lights and heater. I'll go check it out right now.
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Post by JLantz on Apr 6, 2004 1:20:37 GMT -5
Ok, this time all I got was 62=electrical load signal. The manual says to check the electrical load circuit. That is really vague to me, am I supposed to check every load on the entire harness for system voltage? My rear defroster doesn't work, could that be it?
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Post by Justy4x4 on Apr 6, 2004 7:21:07 GMT -5
Seems strange that you wouldn't get a code 43 again. Maybe the trottle position sensor only acts up intermittently. When you first start the test, before starting the engine you have to press the gas pedal to the floor and SLOWLY release it. What this does is allows the PCM to check for open circuit conditions in the sensor. But anyway, I wouldn't get too concerned about the code 62. The PCM is just looking for a sudden change in electrical load. Switching on the headlights should be enough, but the rear defogger is the largest draw of power if it works.
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Post by kchelm on Oct 1, 2004 9:24:59 GMT -5
It's very intresting what you write about. I have noticed that the check engine light starts to be lighted in my Justy when I drive above 50MPH. It happens after few miles when engine is warmed up. Simultanously I can hear some clicking from the engine chamber. It seems the clicking goes from a vaccum selenoid valve placed to the right- close to the wiper electrical engine. I have carefully read the former messages and then I tried to check what is wrong in my Justy. I have 1987 1.2 DL FWD Justy with carburetor. I can see only green - test mode connectors close to control unit. Is it correct. I can't see any cut wires around there. It seems there was newer black connectors for read memory mode. Is it possible? When I turn on the key and the engin is off I can read 11 code from the oxygen monitor diode of the controll unit (gren connectors connected). I have to read the code using a small mirror. It should be the model idetyfication code. What does mean 11 id code?
For the first time when I connected green connectors and I drove few hundret meters with lights and rear defogger on I saw the check engine light lighted for about 30 seconds. Then The check engine light started to pulse like the hasard indicator light. If I assume this were the the trouble codes it was only long pulses of tenths.
For the second time I checked the 02 diode. With test mode set the check engine lamp started to be lighted after warming up the engine and I could read 21 code from the 02 lamp of control Unit. It seems to be the code of my problem.
What does mean 21 code?
I would be very grateful for any suggestions
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Post by Justy4x4 on Oct 1, 2004 22:20:22 GMT -5
My factory manuals are for the 1990 model year and may not provide 100% accurate info on an '87. But, from what I can tell the code 11 you have is most likely a code 01 (not 11) which is the vehicle specification number. Code 01 means your car is FWD and manual tranny. The code 21 is for the coolant temp sensor. Either the sensor is going bad or their is poor connection somewhere. Hope this helps!
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Post by kchelm on Oct 6, 2004 5:10:45 GMT -5
Hi, I cleaned the coolant temperature sensor connector using WD40 penetrating fluid and it helped. There is neither clicking from the selenoid valve heard nor the CHECK ENGIN lighted. So the problem seems to be solved. I have to test my Justy during a longer trip but for a short distance it is OK. Thanks a lot for the aid !!!
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