Post by Deleted on Jan 26, 2008 20:30:41 GMT -5
I hear that some car gurus can semi-accurately determine engine issues by examining the sparkplugs after they are removed from the engine. I recently swapped out my sparkplugs (one at a time and changing wires one at a time to keep them in the right order) to temporarily release some idling and starting issues, and seemed to do the trick for the time being, however, I'm gonna be taking it in to a mechanic to run a tuneup on the carb and choke, but I'm hoping I can glean some insight from some of you gurus by describing the sparkplugs.
Firstly, I noticed not all three of them were the same. One had a single 'prong' at the tip, and the other two had two prongs, which seemed to have more wear on them. This is my first time inspecting them. I didn't get the brand or numbers on them, I didn't think to.
The white element at the center had a lighter spectrum graphite-colored streak across the surface, presumably where the arcing took place. It doesn't wipe off. Around the rim of the threads the sparkplugs each had a black, thin and thick residue that left black on my fingers when rubbed. It smelled lightly of engine oil, but for the most part was carbon, I'm guessing turned to heavy sludge with mixing with oil. My car exhaust has a definite gasoline smell to it. I'm currently getting about 31 miles to the gallon in 20f to -15f temperatures and punish the poor thing with about 100 miles of driving each day(this will end on the 14th, after that it will just be an around town or 'recreation' driver.
The problem is currently two things. One I think is my CV joint. After I bumped some ice and knocked out my front blinker at low speeds the axle squeaks. The other one is(was) my idle. The car would run fine for a few minutes while warming up and then when in higher speeds I'd feel the engine 'stutter' as in lose power for just fractions of a second. I can only feel it in the pedals when this happens. Then when I slow down to an idle, the tach needle will bounce erratically, the engine will sputter and then stall out. Occasionally if I keep my rpms up it will go stable for a couple minutes, then begin ticking again. Theory is I need a choke and carb adjustment, but if people have other possibilities, I'd love to hear it! ;D
Firstly, I noticed not all three of them were the same. One had a single 'prong' at the tip, and the other two had two prongs, which seemed to have more wear on them. This is my first time inspecting them. I didn't get the brand or numbers on them, I didn't think to.
The white element at the center had a lighter spectrum graphite-colored streak across the surface, presumably where the arcing took place. It doesn't wipe off. Around the rim of the threads the sparkplugs each had a black, thin and thick residue that left black on my fingers when rubbed. It smelled lightly of engine oil, but for the most part was carbon, I'm guessing turned to heavy sludge with mixing with oil. My car exhaust has a definite gasoline smell to it. I'm currently getting about 31 miles to the gallon in 20f to -15f temperatures and punish the poor thing with about 100 miles of driving each day(this will end on the 14th, after that it will just be an around town or 'recreation' driver.
The problem is currently two things. One I think is my CV joint. After I bumped some ice and knocked out my front blinker at low speeds the axle squeaks. The other one is(was) my idle. The car would run fine for a few minutes while warming up and then when in higher speeds I'd feel the engine 'stutter' as in lose power for just fractions of a second. I can only feel it in the pedals when this happens. Then when I slow down to an idle, the tach needle will bounce erratically, the engine will sputter and then stall out. Occasionally if I keep my rpms up it will go stable for a couple minutes, then begin ticking again. Theory is I need a choke and carb adjustment, but if people have other possibilities, I'd love to hear it! ;D