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Post by fraser9764 on Oct 11, 2007 13:00:14 GMT -5
im currently having a problem with my front passenger side (drivers side to most on here) brake. It feels fine when driving (stops in a straight line etc) but it squeels like mad when driving upto about 30mph. i've had the brake apart today and the inside brake pad has worn realy unevenly. im justy trying to work out why? has anyone any ideas? thanks in advance
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Post by ripcuda on Oct 11, 2007 14:39:29 GMT -5
First thing I'd check is the caliper slider pin. Make sure the caliper slides freely on the pin, that it's not too worn and that it's well greased.
If the caliper binds while trying to slide on the pin, it can definitely cause the pad to drag on the rotor after you let off the brakes since the caliper can't "relax" back into proper position. Also, if the hole in the caliper body where the pin slides is worn out-of-round, then the caliper will bind on the pin with the same effects.
It's a start. Good luck!
P.S. Thanks for the rear drum removal tip!
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Post by fraser9764 on Oct 12, 2007 2:29:31 GMT -5
no problem ripcuda. i am guessing you mean the top of the caliper? there is a 12mm bolt at the bottom of the caliper which, when undone allows the caliper to swing upwards away from the pads and then backwards away from and off the carrier. When i had the brake apart yesterday it seemed ok and there was definatly a small amount of grease on it. i will double check this tonight thought and put a bit more grease in. im not overly convinced that it is the brake that is making the noise though, im now thinking it is the wheelbearing and the brakes are just getting a bit worn and dragging a bit anyway. the other thing i noticed last night is that it stops squeeling after about half an hours driving when it gets warm. thanks.
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Post by davefman on Oct 13, 2007 22:00:12 GMT -5
You may want to check the play in the wheel bearings. I have two justys and they've both had issues with the front castle nuts loosening up and allowing the wheel to "wobble" while driving. jack up the car and try to wiggle the wheel while holding the top and bottom. this will give you a good idea of whether the castle nut is loose and the bearings are properly loaded.
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Post by fraser9764 on Oct 14, 2007 8:07:00 GMT -5
turns out its not the brakes, i took the pads out and drove down the road (bit daft i know but its a quiet little road and i had the handbrake!) this leaves me with wheelbearings or driveshaft. there didnt seem to be any play in the wheel bearings but i have replaced them anyway, got the old ones out and new ones in, just need some new brake pipe unions now to put it back together as the brake pipes didnt look that great so i am replacing them while i have it apart. hopefully this solves he problem as the local motor factors quoted 168 GBP for a new driveshaft!!!
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Post by ripcuda on Oct 14, 2007 13:44:40 GMT -5
You may want to check the play in the wheel bearings. I have two justys and they've both had issues with the front castle nuts loosening up and allowing the wheel to "wobble" while driving. jack up the car and try to wiggle the wheel while holding the top and bottom. this will give you a good idea of whether the castle nut is loose and the bearings are properly loaded. That's pretty brave Fraser! Hope you didn't accidentally pump the brakes and pop your caliper piston out! ;D Dave, how can the castlenut loosen up? Doesn't the cotter pin prevent that? Another thing I don't fully understand... the front hubs/bearings. On other cars I've had, the front wheel bearings are two piece, with a separate race (pressed into the hub) and bearing part (aka. a tapered roller bearing). There were two bearing/races, facing opposite directions, one inner - one outer, and the whole hub had to be held (squeezed) together so the bearing and races where all positioned properly. Proper compression (axle nut torqued) is important. Good pictures diagrams of different bearings here: science.howstuffworks.com/bearing3.htmBut the Justy uses a pair of single-piece ball bearings, one inner - one outer, that are both pressed into the hub with a spacer in between them. So why is compression of the whole hub (axle nut torquing it together) so important? Why does the Justy require an axle nut torque so much greater than all other FWD cars I've had?
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SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
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Post by SeattleJusty on Oct 14, 2007 21:17:51 GMT -5
To better clarify the response to Ripcuda's question, the high castle-nut torque is necessary because it is holding the hub onto the axle. If that hub came off, the wheel would go with. Also, in regard to the comment about Justys eating hub/axle splines: This is specifically a 4X4 thing. Those that use 4 wheel drive on dry pavement, at high speeds or who engage 4-wheel drive in the higher gears, bind the axles and chew the corresponding splines in the hubs.
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Post by fraser9764 on Oct 16, 2007 11:49:23 GMT -5
AAAARGH! this car can be so infuriating at times! it is supposed to be my daily driver, it has been on the road for about 3days of the last 3 weeks!! firstly down to the alternator, which 90 GBP!! and now this! does the just use strange size bolts or something? when i dismantled the corner, the previous owner had rounded the heads on a few bolts, plus alot were rusty and looking worse for wear, so i "borrowed" a selection of stainless nuts and bolts from work, but the threads are a different pitch!! now i cant get the castlenuts back onto the trackrod end or the lower arm ball joint, seems i must have damaged the threads at some point while working on it, not sure how, but none of my dyes fit the damn thing!!
Much more of this and the justy is going on fleabay
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Post by fraser9764 on Oct 21, 2007 8:26:47 GMT -5
i give up with the damn car!! turns out the bolts are m10 metric fine (1.25mm pitch thread not the regular 1.5mm) i got some new bolts and a tap and dye yesterday, got it back together with all new brake lines and fittings, drove to mates house to give him a hand with his car, and it was still squeeking!! a week off the road and a load of messing about with the wheelbearings and it turns out it must be the driveshaft! anyway, i jacked it up thismorning and noticed that the shock absorber didnt look right, the damn spring cup had snapped! the bottom cup where the spring sits has disintigrated half way round causing the spring to twist but it is just about held i one place by the back side. looks like i need a new shock now!! on the plus side, i pulled back the boot n the gearbox end of the driveshaft and found it to be damn near dry, obvisously the cause of the squeek. i havnt driven it far with it sqeeking, 50 miles at the most, so i have packed it full of CV grease and i wil just have to see how it goes. i desperatly need a parts car, or a new one, if anyone in the uk wants to make me an offer...
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Post by gc73 on Oct 21, 2007 15:53:34 GMT -5
mine is still for sale for bits
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Post by fraser9764 on Oct 25, 2007 14:02:28 GMT -5
well. i have a second hand shock absorber on, its done about 120 miles these last 2 days and all seems fine, the driveshaft is quieter but will still need replacing. if anyone is in the uk and looking for cheap second hand justy parts, try a company baron recomended to me, the website is www.hdcsubaru.com/ less than 24 hours from ordering to being on my doorstep, and worked out at just less than 50 GBP for a shock absorber (came with spring) fan switch, and reverse light switch. that included VAT and 12.50 for delivery (standard price)
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