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Post by jcline on Jul 10, 2007 14:34:53 GMT -5
So driving my justy today, for a lil bit, trouble shooting, seems i got the famous 2500-3500 rpm knock. Now I know its caused mosty by worn out bearings and low oil pressure. Now, what all parts do I need, and be specific I live in oregon and a subby dealership isnt that far away. I know the rod bearings will need to be replaced and so will the oil pump shaft and gear, but what else? And what steps are involved in this? Seems like alot of problems are happening at once, any help would be great.
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Jul 11, 2007 0:11:39 GMT -5
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Post by jcline on Jul 11, 2007 0:21:50 GMT -5
wow very good thread that you have there, any help would be great, my dads house where i will be working on it, he has a big barn aka shop, with a hoist, air tools, every hand tool imaginable. and my bro will help too, he has 9 years helicopter mechanic experience, so a lil 3 cylinder car is no prob for him.
but the only down side is we know nothing about these little engines.
since this is my only car, and now i have no means of transportation, yes a rebuild will have to occur. But my dad said that we should just rebuild the bottom end and leave the top end alone since we have no problems with it, just creates more work and money to spend. which none of us have
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Jul 11, 2007 0:32:23 GMT -5
Really the main spots to deal with once it starts to go back togeteer is the oil pump and water pump. Those two are in the front cover of the engine, The piston rings are a good idea as well, you are pretty much half way there when pulling this engine apart. I think you should source out all the parts you need before you tear in to it. This si an example of what I am looking for. Radiator Heater core Head studs Fuel line Rebuild head- Valves/Springs/cam/Rocker arms. Rod bearings Main journal bearings Head Gasket Thermostat Timing belt Harmonic balancer/crank pulley Drive belt Cam seal Distributor seal Oil pump assembly Oil pump seal Piston rings After you get the part in your hand I think you can have this pulled out and back in within 3-4 days, even faster if you skip the machine shop for clean up and stuff. What area do you live in?
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Post by jcline on Jul 11, 2007 0:36:44 GMT -5
yeah the pumps definately, but good idea bout the rings, and head gasket. parts i KNOW i need are rod bearings, journal bearings, head gasket, cam seal, oil pump seal and assembly, piston rings, oilpan seal, mine leaks a little bit when i bought it all the regular tune up stuff was already done, radiator is good, belts are good, plugs, wires etc etc i live in wilsonville at the moment, my bro and my dad live out in Boring, past damascus and clackamas. before sandy well its around 10:30pm. and i start work real soon, time to baby drive my car to work, under 2k rpms
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Post by blackjusty on Jul 11, 2007 0:47:12 GMT -5
I also live in Portland but I have no free time right now. It will be nice to see another Justy or 2 on the road!
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Jul 11, 2007 0:50:14 GMT -5
Yeah it should last a good while longer a point will come wher you will really need to do some work and it is almost better to take the time and do as much as you can all at one time. If you have a part that might fail and it will only take another 20min to get at it you might as well do it. If you have a vehicle you can borrow that would help alot incase ther are any snags.
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Post by henri on Jul 11, 2007 11:50:45 GMT -5
check rockauto.com, they seem to have better prices than the dealership for the parts. you also have to have a shop machine your crank, otherwise it's just a bandaid fix. best way to go about this is to find a spare engine and rebuild that
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Post by jcline on Jul 11, 2007 19:55:33 GMT -5
i would love to buy just another motor, and rebuild that, but i havent the money for that at all. and they dont seem that expensive
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Post by blackjusty on Jul 11, 2007 23:08:24 GMT -5
I had a justy that I bought to fix. I installed new rod bearings in the car. When I ran it the noise was the same as before. I figured the wrist pin on one cylinder was worn out. The piston was probably hitting the head. That's the last time I do that. Fix it right or get a good used engine.
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Jul 12, 2007 11:14:56 GMT -5
Here are some part numbers. I hope they help. Head studs 800908200
Rod bearings 12108KA110
Main bearings 482655500
Head Gasket 11044KA011
Timing belt 13028KA021
Distributor seal 22171KA000
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Post by jcline on Jul 12, 2007 22:15:49 GMT -5
yeah im thinking i should replace anything that moves. wrist pins etc etc etc
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Jul 13, 2007 0:03:50 GMT -5
The wrist pins on my pistons were in good shape. That probally will not be an issue. I think oil pump is critical.
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Post by blackjusty on Jul 13, 2007 0:29:16 GMT -5
So what are you going to do coal. Are you planning to sleeve the oil pump housing. What size and what kind of bushing would it take? Can you skip that step? How did yours look? I am just curious because I have never seen one in person or up close. I love the pictures but that part I can't distinguish. There is also a water pump on top of oil pump or something like that? thanks, L
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Jul 13, 2007 11:40:33 GMT -5
I am going to try and find new oil pump internals. I think they are called inner rotor and outer rotor. There is an oring that sits on the front cover that nees to be changed also. Now any input from others out here on the oil pump would be great as to what else should be done before it gets put back together.
This is the oil pump housing located in the front cover. <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t287/coaldigital/JustyPictures039.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a> The outer rotor removed. <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t287/coaldigital/JustyPictures038.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a> The outer rotor installed in the front cover. <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t287/coaldigital/JustyPictures036.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a> The inner rotor. <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t287/coaldigital/JustyPictures031.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a> Both rotors installed in the front cover. <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t287/coaldigital/JustyPictures028.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Jul 13, 2007 11:45:21 GMT -5
The water pump is located in the front cover also. This is just to the other side of the front cover. If you open the hood and look down at the belts the oil pump and water pump are on each side of the crank pulley.
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Post by jcline on Jul 13, 2007 14:37:02 GMT -5
good stuff to hear. i mean my car has a lil over 88k miles on it. so im thinking the wrist pins might be okay, but my motor has always made alot of noise coming from under the hood. i think it needs some professional looking at, for valve clearance and all that crap, because i think it shouldnt be as loud as it is
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