|
Post by bladesamurai on Jul 30, 2007 21:14:53 GMT -5
Hey guys, I'm having a transmission problem I'm having trouble diagnosing. As far as I can tell, car runs fine in any of the forward gears, but there's a problem with reverse. For the first, maybe 20 seconds, clutch disengages fine, car goes backwards. But then, the whole front of the car violently shudders, and the car will actually slide forward if on an incline. It sounds as if the clutch/flywheel are just grating against the transmission's gears. Shifting out and back in at this point doesnt work. It seems to work again for a bit only when the car has been sitting for a few days.
Does this sounds like a clutch problem or a transmission problem? Or is there some more information that would help diagnose?
|
|
|
Post by SUBIEJIM on Jul 30, 2007 21:59:12 GMT -5
Sounds alot like a slipping clutch disc. But, since it really only happens when you throttle up in reverse check the motor and transaxle mounts. There are 3 rubber mounts (one on the right side- engine, one on the left side- transaxle, and one on the lower front member between the engine and transaxle) also take a look at the pitching stopper...Weak mounts will cause a clutch chatter..Bad mounts can cause slippage. If all the mounts are good then you may have motor oil or gear oil on the disk from a leaky rear main seal or transaxle input shaft seal. Let us know how you make out. Jim
|
|
|
Post by bladesamurai on Jul 30, 2007 22:15:36 GMT -5
once is starts, the car will shudder even if my foot is off of the gas. As long as the clutch is out, the same thing happens. however, it will stop when I put the clutch back in.
I'll check up on the motor and transaxle mounts and check for leaks as soon as I can, thanks for your help. After this problem is solved all I have to do is see what i need to do for emissions and the car will be on the road!
|
|
|
Post by bladesamurai on Aug 15, 2007 18:30:18 GMT -5
Okay, finally had a chance today to troubleshoot some more. First thing i replaced was the clutch cable, because the previous owner had left a brand new on in the back, so i figured why not replace it why I'm messing with stuff.
Next, let the car run with some engine cleaner in the gas, and the car will actually idle now. Before, it'd run for 2 or 3 seconds, and then die unless you kept on the gas. Now it'll stay around a constant 500 rpm at a verrry rough idle.
But now, new question. I know you said check out the motor mounts, but today we tried reversing in 4WD, and it worked like a charm. Reverse in 2WD still nets the same problem, car doesnt move, shakes violently. But if i switch over to 4WD it reverses like any other car, without any visible problems.
This seems to point to a problem in the transmission, any idea what would be causing this? Or should I take a look at the nearby junkyards for a justy with an intact transmission?
|
|
|
Post by ronan on Aug 16, 2007 11:55:16 GMT -5
Just a thought, when I brought my 88 home from the crusher. It had a almost identical problem to yours. After troubleshooting, I found that the spline on the drive side front hub was just about stripped out. Could`nt understand how the hub would strip before the halfshaft spline? But it did. The nightmare was trying to locate a replacement...
|
|
|
Post by SUBIEJIM on Aug 16, 2007 14:39:01 GMT -5
Ronan, Good call, I bought an 88 for $100 bucks that had a stripped out hub on the driver side. I could let the clutch out in 1st gear, then get out and watch the left side axle shaft turning inside the hub I bet that's what it is...It holds until the load on the splines becomes to great and then it poops out GRIND, GRIND, GRIND! Good job!! Jim
|
|
|
Post by bladesamurai on Aug 16, 2007 14:43:07 GMT -5
thanks for the quick responses, guys! I'll see what i can do replacing that part.
Sadly, new problem has arisen: From yesterday and today, the windshield wipers no longer work. rear still works fine, but the front wipers do not work on any of the settings. Interior lights, lights/brights, everything else works fine as far as I can tell. Would this just be a loose wire somewhere?
man, you guys are awesome, thanks for the help!
|
|
|
Post by blackjusty on Aug 16, 2007 15:09:04 GMT -5
whoa, how do you go about stripping out a hub?
|
|
SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
|
Post by SeattleJusty on Aug 16, 2007 18:48:53 GMT -5
whoa, how do you go about stripping out a hub? It's easy, you just drive around in 4-wheel drive all the time. Oh, hard launch from a stop light to dust a Hyundai, 4-wheel drive! Show off to my friends and shift it into 4X4 at 40 MPH, 4-wheel drive! Use it as needed but then forget to shut it off, 4-wheel drive! Honestly I'm surprised there aren't more people with dusted hubs.
|
|
SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
|
Post by SeattleJusty on Aug 16, 2007 20:44:38 GMT -5
I've abused 4wd until failure too but never blew a hub. Off road, rocky trails did me in. The u-joints can't take the pounding, neither can the wheel bearings. This hub 'dusting' reminds me of when my justy's lower timing belt pulley lost it's grip on the crankshaft. It's not splined but there's a key way, it's also compressed by the crank pulley bolt(65-71ft-lbs Chilton). The hub(front) is also sandwiched by the castle nut @ 145ft-lbs?(hand written note in my manual, anyone?). I bet there's some loose hubs out there just waiting to be dusted via any method recommended by seattlejusty! stacks Not bad, a bit much but close. My Fuji factory shop guide says the front castle nut spec is 130 FT-LB.
|
|
|
Post by blackjusty on Aug 16, 2007 21:05:39 GMT -5
What does the Fuji manual recommend for the rear castle nut on a 88 4wd.
|
|
SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
|
Post by SeattleJusty on Aug 17, 2007 10:24:44 GMT -5
This is reason #74 that I don't use Chilton manuals. They're crap! I feel the pain of every Justy owner that has to get by with just these. Damn you Haynes for forsaking us. Maybe I can get a fancy scanner and start reproducing my factory guides.
|
|
|
Post by blackjusty on Aug 17, 2007 13:22:03 GMT -5
1988 rear 4wd axle nut. After initially torquing then backing off chiltons says to use a lb guage to measure the turning force of the wheel, while you tighten the nut. If i had this guage or knew how to rig one up I would, it sounds like a fish guage. From my own trial and error I use 120-130lbs. The dealer said to use 60lbs. I wonder if the factory manuals have anything to add that is different.
|
|
SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
|
Post by SeattleJusty on Aug 17, 2007 17:18:06 GMT -5
I think Jim should get involved here because my shop guide has me confused. If I am reading it correctly, upon installation of the drums, it says to torque to 29 LBFT, then to rotate the drum in both directions several times. Then it says to untorque the nut down to 0-LBFT then retorque initially to 0.7 LBFT (1N-M), secure the nut with a new lockwasher and then torque the nut to 13-23LBFT None of this makes sense to me.
|
|
SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
|
Post by SeattleJusty on Aug 17, 2007 17:23:09 GMT -5
I think Jim should get involved here because my shop guide has me confused. If I am reading it correctly, upon installation of the drums, it says to torque to 29 LBFT, then to rotate the drum in both directions several times. Then it says to untorque the nut down to 0-LBFT then retorque initially to 0.7 LBFT (1N-M), secure the nut with a new lockwasher and then torque the nut to 13-23LBFT None of this makes sense to me. OK so before I was reading from the wheel & suspension section. I just read up in the brake section and it sepcifies, 14-22LBFT..... basically the same but questionabley inconsistent...? I'm confused.
|
|
|
Post by SUBIEJIM on Aug 17, 2007 22:52:42 GMT -5
I think Jim should get involved here because my shop guide has me confused. If I am reading it correctly, upon installation of the drums, it says to torque to 29 LBFT, then to rotate the drum in both directions several times. Then it says to untorque the nut down to 0-LBFT then retorque initially to 0.7 LBFT (1N-M), secure the nut with a new lockwasher and then torque the nut to 13-23LBFT None of this makes sense to me. OK so before I was reading from the wheel & suspension section. I just read up in the brake section and it sepcifies, 14-22LBFT..... basically the same but questionabley inconsistent...? I'm confused. SJ, The procedure you quoted was correct for the rear nut used on a FWD Justy. For a 4WD Justy you must tighten the rear axle nut to 108 ft-lb, then install the cotter pin in the hole in the axle and bend the ends of the cotter pin over. The torque spec I quoted is for an 88 Gen 1 Justy. If you need the spec for a Gen 2 let me know and I'll find it. Jim
|
|
SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
|
Post by SeattleJusty on Aug 18, 2007 1:12:14 GMT -5
Jim, thanks for clearing that up.
|
|
|
Post by bladesamurai on Aug 18, 2007 19:35:35 GMT -5
Fuse # 11 powers the front wipers, front & rear washer pumps and rear defogger(maybe more). Check it first unless you're an engineer; in this case, check everything else first, fuse last! After the fuse, I'd check for voltage at the motor itself, green is low speed positive, Blue/white is high speed positive. Case is grounded to frame. Find 12 volts between either wire and the motor's ground(case), key on acc and wiper switch on corresponding speed. Pass the above test and you'll need a new/used wiper motor. Failing the motor voltage test, I'd check the wiper switch (or rather replace it with an in-dash 3 way toggle). There is a switch inside the wiper motor head. It is used in conjunction with the 'intermittent wiper unit' and does not need to function for low or high speeds, only intermittent. This allows the motor to stop at the right spot between cycles. So, once you get rid of the intermittent stuff it's a simple circuit; two speed motor with 2 switches, never both on. If the pump also doesn't work and the fuse is fine, then check wire from ignition switch to fuse box. Unlikely. I don't walk around with all these wiper details cemented in my head, they are derived from a subaru wiring diagram! 6-3 pg 43 stacks thanks for this, already checked the fuses, and front/back wiper fluid works, time for some more in depth tests
|
|
|
Post by bladesamurai on Aug 19, 2007 19:21:06 GMT -5
tonight we put the front up on blocks to see if we could diagnose the problem any further... and it turns out that the front left wheel wasn't moving in the forward gears either, haha. If you popped the clutch out, it would move maybe 5 degrees then stop, and I couldn't see any moving parts on that side of the axel. Apparently all the times we were pulling the car forward, the front right wheel was doing all the work, poor guy So to confirm, the part that would probably need replacing is the piece that attaches directly to the transmission in the center? maybe 4 inches wide and 4 inches long? I can take a picture to confirm if this is too vague, i just don't want to end up calling a junkyard for the wrong part
|
|